I should have some measurements on my SWB Vitara rear springs later today. You can enter the measurements of the springs you have into an on-line spring rate calculator, this will also get you in the ballpark. Starting your mockup with a SWB vitara definitely makes sense as you have lots of options to add rate and height later, just not travel.
Ride height is easily tuned - it's really just where you weld the spring hat. The issue is that if the spring doesn't have enough length or, doesn't have enough rate, you'll have no travel between ride height and full compression. You can do some of this with a tape measure and a spring rate calculator, but there's also some trial and error in there too. I had to move my spring hats to lower the car after my initial calculations/measurements during my last build.
There are whole units in Mech eng courses on this stuff, but the #1 thing I see people doing with coils is assuming they have lots of travel - they don't. It's rare to see a coil for a 4WD application with more than 250mm of travel because high travel requires extremely long springs which can't be easily packaged, so to try and get the very most travel out of a spring design you need to ensure it's close to bind at full compression, or you're just wasting the spring. The bind point or "block" point changes with different springs. This is why lots of common 2" lift springs for vitara rears are SHORTER than the stock spring. If you make the spring longer with, say, an extra turn of wire, that extra turn makes the block point of the spring taller too. when you're trying to fit a spring into an existing design, that means it will block before the axle compresses the bumpstop, which makes the ride very harsh and can break the car. Therefore to get the rate right (thicker wire, which also makes the spring taller when blocked) and the number of turns right, the outcome is a shorter spring at free length.
If you're designing from scratch you can work around this a bit, but only within the bounds of the physics of spring design and the hard points the car gives you.
My first go at my coil front suspension had the car set up with vitara rear SWB springs to get the ride height I wanted. However, because of my inverted radius arms, my car was running the equivalent of 2" of front bumpstop spacing, which meant I had very little compression travel at ride height. I swapped to 2" lift springs which helped, but ultimately, the car was taller than I wanted and the springs would go loose on flex. I was a pretty compromised setup, mostly because of the inverted radius arms eating up compression travel - I was wasting 2" of spring travel
My revised setup put calmini 3.5" rear springs (100lb/") behind the axle housing to keep the top of the spring hat low and out of the reach of the tyres. I have full compression travel as I removed the radius arms, and I use all the safe travel of a 12" shock. However, to give you an idea of how fine the tolerances are, to correct Sierra lean I run a 20mm spacer on the RHS, and this pushes the driver's side spring to block at full compression. I can't avoid this, the only solution would be a spring with a slightly higher rate with a shorter block height, which would a custom solution and I suspect not easy to design.
Here's some photos.
This is setting up my current configuration bar in 2018

. You can see this spring is very, very close to block height. the 20mm spacer on the driver's side results in bind.

Driver's side at full droop

This works very well but that's not just isolated to the springs - I totally revised the suspension as part of this rebuild.
Here's the old setup, something closer to what I imagine you're planning.
This is a stock Vitara rear spring at ride height using a factory Vitara spring seat (from the rear axle) and a factory vitara rear coil hat. Whilst there's no winch in place (or front clip) ride height is still pretty much ideal as it would come down once complete.

My problem, though, was the flipped radius arms. Once complete and setup, the result was this:

I rapidly had to swap to a 2" lift spring, and this photo is at ride height. You'll note There's about 150mm from the axle to the chassis, but the bumpstop has been spaced way down inside the coil and I have about 2" of usable compression travel, even though about 4" of shock shaft was showing. Whilst this was due to my radius arms, there could be other factors (tyre clearance, sump etc) that mean you need to add bumpstop spacing after you've set your mounts in place and it really kills the effectiveness of the suspension.

This was the solution for the first phase of the front end.
I put Sierra front bumpstops on the chassis which contacted the radius arms and I ran limit straps to stop the coils falling out. Ultimately, it was OK to drive but I wasn't really getting very much travel - not much over 6". My life would have been much easier if I hadn't flipped the radius arms and ran a stock spring with a much shorter shock. What I did is very typical of people swapping to coils - run a shock that's waaaay to long, the coils go loose and compression travel is limited by other compromises.
*A quick note on the calmini Vitara rear springs I use. They're weirdly designed. They have an incredibly low rate, 100lb/" (I calculated this and then confirmed it when I weighed the car) and they're so soft they're almost useless in a vitara. Calmini also design them to bind at full compression in the back of a vitara which is, er, "unconventional" at best. THey're very, very long and have quite a lot of turns for their length, which makes the rate low but also makes the block length tall. They will travel about 11" though, which is crazy for anything designed to fit in a standard vehicle. Unfortunately, Calmini products are basically vapourware and I don't believe they will sell the springs alone without all the junk vitara bracketry that comes with them. It took me years to accumulate a set.