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Post Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 12:40 pm 
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Hi,

What could be the cause of loud clunking/banging noise from the front of the car (seems like from the wheels) in 4H/4L during turns, but disappear on straight line.

In 2H no issue (noise) at all in any maneuver

from http://www.suzuki-forums.com I found the following

GM Tech Service Bulletin, Bulletin No.: 01-04-19-003, Date: April, 2001
Subject:
Harsh Clunk Noise From Front Axle While in 4WD and During Turning Maneuvers (Replace Front Differential Case, Actuator and Side Bearings)
Models:
1999 Chevrolet Tracker with Four-Wheel Drive
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh clunk or popping noise coming from the front axle. This condition is most apparent while driving in 4WD at low speeds on loose traction surfaces such as gravel or snow and turning right or left.
Cause
Inside the front differential case, the teeth of the free wheel axle hub may jump a tooth resulting in the noise.

would this be the issue? How can I test to make sure any idea of cost to fix it

Thanks

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 8:23 pm 
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It sounds like you may be driving the car in 4WD on a hard high traction surface - if that is correct then the issue is operator error.

The vehicle has what is known as part time 4WD and should not be driven in 4WD when not on a loose or slippery surface as this will cause what is known as drive train wind up, be warned that this can cause significant damage to the drive train.

If it's happening on a loose surface the issue will be the worn teeth on the differential case dog clutch mentioned in that bulletin.

By the way - your subject line suggests it's happening in 2WD, but your post says it's not - which is correct?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 10:10 pm 
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Sorry I meant 4H and 4L

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 5:57 am 
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OK - now were you on a hard surface or a loose one?

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 5:30 pm 
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Sorry to hijack your thread, I too have the same issue. Heard it happening on slushy bends after a shallow river crossing. I noticed on the way back down, that turning in seamed to bind up and decrease the revs before it would pop.

Can somebody explain what is happening here, is the diff locking both wheels together and the axle spline is skipping teeth inside the hub of the inside wheel?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 8:15 am 
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This was a common problem with the first shape GV, we had a brand new GV in the Suzuki Club back in the late 90's which did this.

The actuator which splits one axle away from the diff centre for 2H operation fails to properly engage, causing the dog clutch to skip teeth, which is where the clunking/banging comes from.

I thought the problem was predominantly caused by the little vacuum(? - I think it's vacuum) pump behind the front bumper, but I could be wrong, It wasn't my car and it was 20 years ago.

Fordem - it wasn't a wear problem that I was aware of- look at the date of the service bulletin, the first cars that displayed this symptom would have been <1 year old when it started to show up as a problem. The one we had in the club did it from new. It did not take significant drive load for it to skip teeth.



The idea with these systems, which were common back in the 90's-2000's was that instead of the dreadful inconvenience of getting out of the car to engage a freewheeling hub, a sliding clutch engaged one front axle shaft as required. It's NOT a diff lock.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 8:53 am 
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A couple of points - first - this is not a "one axle disconnect from the diff center" type deal - this is a "diff center disconnect from the crown wheel" and it uses low pressure compressed air, not a vacuum.

Yes - there was a TSB documenting the problem on the early production, I can't locate my copy right now, but going from memory, there were a couple of "redesigned" assemblies on which the angle of engagement teeth were changed, but, if it's allowed to slip, the teeth do wear and the problem feeds upon itself - you'll eventually reach a point where you can hear the unit going ding-ding-ding when driving in a straight line if the front wheels have more traction than the rear.

Enginerd wrote:
Sorry to hijack your thread, I too have the same issue.


I want to suggest you be avoid describing any issue you have as "the same issue" - we here do not yet know the circumstances under which the original poster's issue occurs - you have described the circumstances under which you experienced it, he hasn't.

When in 4WD, in a high traction situation, as soon as you start to turn, you create a scenario in which drive train "wind up" occurs, and this can cause the "binding" that you describe, the binding in turn is an increased load that causes the revs to decrease and eventually the free wheel clutch jumps a tooth and relieves the wind up stresses. This skipping or jumping of teeth occurs interanlly to the front differential.

The fact that you can feel the binding and hear the revs decrease is pointing to there being more traction that you think.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 10:02 pm 
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fordem wrote:
OK - now were you on a hard surface or a loose one?


Sorry have not got back till now, did not think anyone had responded as I was not getting notification.

Anyway, I tried it on a grass verge, if going straight everything seems fine, but as soon as I turn (right or left) metalic clunking noise can be heard coming from the front.

I then stop, but it back to 2H. The noise would stop.

Could it be the CV joint?, the boot on the driver side (brake disk side) has a tear.

Iam thinking of replacing that axle and also replacing oil seal and nylon spacer of the front diff whilst I'm at it. (as the diff is also leaking on that side)

Any recommendation of where I can these parts.

for the axle autopartsdirect2u has it for $180, but cannot find the diff seal and spacer. Tried emailing suzuki but have not receive a reply.

lastly, if the diff needs reconditioning, is there a recommended mob in sydney?

Thankd

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 11:09 pm 
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For the seals and support bush can get them from suzistore in WA (they'll post them quickly)
Are you getting drive to the front wheels?

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 11:38 pm 
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Yes, it I think so, when i select 4h/4l the light indicating 4wd turn on an remain on until i switch back to 2h

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 11:51 pm 
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My guess is CV's

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 1:24 am 
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CVs generally don't "clunk", the noise they make is what I would describe as a clatter or a rattle.

Also I don't know what grass verges are like in Australia, but out here they're rarely large enough to get all four wheels of a vehicle on to them at the same time, and there's no way I could/would be performing 4WD turns on one.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:40 am 
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Ignoring the sound description the fact it's only doing when turning points to CV's

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:47 am 
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Ok will try just replacing axle/cv
Will only cost me time and diff oil if i need to put in a 2nd diff/recon one

Thanks for the input, just 2 more question

What year does this model/diff can use?.

I see some on used ones (150km) on ebay from a 2007 grand vitara/xl7 (according to the desc) for about $250 but not sure if I can use it on a 2002 model.

I would prefer a recond ones but have not found any on searches or places that will do the recond work.

The sound system seem to have a mind of it own, in that when on, there is it can produce no sound, or blaring or very faint. From what i can discern it is a clarion unit, anyone have the same issue?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:41 am 
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Nope - I pointed this out before - depending on the surface, turning in 4H can cause drivetrain windup and that can cause the clutch assembly in the front diff to slip repeatedly and that does clunk.

The description as a clunk, along with the fact that it happens in 4H but not in 2H is what says to me that it's the front diff clutches.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 12:48 pm 
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Cannot see any clutch for front diff

https://suzukisubaruparts.worldoemparts ... fferential

Or am I missing something (sorry only a noob at this)

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 10:16 pm 
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There's a lot of stuff missing in that image.

Image

The freewheel assembly, including the clutch, is in #17 - #18 is the actuator, when air is pumped in, it engages the clutch, when the air is released the clutch disengages.

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