[pktito]

Hello!

I have just bought a 2013 Jimny Auto with 44.000km on the clock. It looks like new and comes with no mods, completely standard.

A couple of months ago I tried for the first time a 4wd, an old Sierra, around some muddy tracks in Spain and I absolutely loved it, so much fun! I'm a nature lover so I hope this little toy will help me to visit a few places my feet can't take me to [emoji16]

I have got a few months off so I'm going to travel a little a bit, probably starting in a couple of weeks going from Melbourne to Byron Bay. I will take 2 or 3 weeks and my idea is exploring as many 4wd tracks as possible on the way.

Sooo... I don't play any extreme 4wdriving (not yet at least), I will go on easy tracks and sandy beaches.

Do you think a standard Jimny will be able to handle it?
What about the tyres? I have been reading quite a bit and some people suggest 215/75/15 AT as they fit without modifications. If I don't change them, will the standard ones be OK?
Any particular recovery gear you recommend?

I'm planning on taking a day/weekend 4wd course so I get the basics. I have been reading a lot this and other forums for the last few weeks but I prefer something hands on [emoji6]

Any other advice will be more than welcome!

Thanks guys!

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[sideways]

Welcome to the forum, make sure you document your trip in the trips section!

A standard Jimny will get most places. You might have to take the long way, do some track building or get the odd tug from another vehicle but most destinations in Australia are accessible in a standard or lightly modified 4wd. Certainly if you're following general tourist tracks and have no interest in searching out hardcore tracks then you will be fine.

Certainly where sand is involved, a standard Jimny will go pretty much anywhere.

Fitting 215/75r15s may be wise but not necessary. My biggest problem with the H/T tyres was punctures, they're paper thin. It depends on your circumstances but personally I'd rather spend the $1000ish that the new tyres will cost on having a longer holiday.

For gear for well traveled mild tracks I would go.

Air compressor. My eBay one has lasted me years and is very fast.

Tyre gauge/deflater. I run around 5 psi on sand. Read up on tyre pressures for Jimnys. Big car guys will likely tell you to run 15-20psi on sand but that is really far too much pressure and sand will be hard work with those pressures. I have a digital tyre pressure gauge so I can be accurate at very low pressures.

Basic tool kit. For a modern car Jimnys are very simple to work on. Pliers, screw drivers and 8, 10, 12, 14 and 17mm spanners/sockets will cover virtually anything you can do to the car.

One of those little fold up shovels are handy, they're about $10 and are easy to fit in a Jimny.

A snatch strap + shackles. For the Jimny you want a strap with the lowest possible weight rating so that it will still stretch a bit. For shackles make sure you get some that will actually fit the tow points on your car.

A UHF can be handy, personally I like handhelds.

It depends where you're going but Jimnys are limited in fuel range. Look at where you're planning to go and how long you plan to stay away from towns for. Personally I used the Jerry can heaps, others travel around all over the place and never need them.

[Gwagensteve]

HI Pktito, welcome.

Sideways advice is spot on. I'll add a caution though.

It sounds like you're travelling alone, as in a single vehicle. This, plus inexperience, is a recipe for trouble. If you're travelling during the working week, most forests will be pretty deserted. It's also winter, so track conditions can be very slippery. Whilst your intention is only to travel on easy tracks, it's common to find yourself in the bottom of a valley you can't get out of, for example, or have the car slide onto its diffs in a rut. the result is you're stuck without the ability to self recover and there won't be anybody around. Both of these examples are from my personal experience of traveling in a single vehicle.

Despite 25 years experience 4WDing, I get nervous when I'm 4WDing alone. It seems that anything that can go wrong will when your by yourself. I'd strongly consider carrying a hand winch, and be very cautious about driving on unfamiliar tracks. Having the ability to self recover, even if it's a long and difficult process, will provide some piece of mind. Also try and research the forests you'll be driving in to get a feel for track condition. Note, for example, that tracks to points of interest will generally be in good condition, but many tracks in working forests (i.e where logging takes place) will be dead ends and/or unmaintained.

I'm a little sceptical about 4WD training courses, especially in relation to cars like Jimny's. They're a very poor substitute for going on a trip with an organised 4WD club for example.

Steve.

[bumstein]

Small addition, ratchet tie down straps are a good low weigh, easy pack, handy alternative to a hand winch. They are hard work but can work well. Keep it in mind however you’ll be using it to pull your car 6-12 odd inches at a time. It’s not ideal, but can work.

[Gwagensteve]

That's a good point bumstein, with a proviso - they're very close to their maximum working load if you're dragging a car, and if you're on a hill, you'll need to use two, one to pull the car, then attach the other to hold it while you unspool the webbing on the ratchet you just used. Also, obviously, you can't "lower" or "power out" a ratchet strap - once you release it there's no control.

I have used a ratchet strap to move a car enough to slacken a hand winch cable so I could work on the hand winch. On flat ground I think a ratchet strap is reasonably feasible. I'd find it pretty spooky trying to pull a car up a hill with one. (two)

Steve.

[Eddy]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I'm a little sceptical about 4WD training courses, especially in relation to cars like Jimny's. They're a very poor substitute for going on a trip with an organised 4WD club for example.
.

Very true ... buuutt slightly better than nothing for a beginner.
If nothing else .. they can be very entertaining ... particularly as some instructors are so full of their own importance

Don't panic too much about your tyres. On a light weight vehicle, a tyre can take a bit more than the same tyre on a heavier vehicle.

[Toomanycars]

Don't get tie down points confused with tow points and never snatch using a tow ball. If the tow car has a hayman reese...pull the tow hitch out and shove the end of the snatch in the square hole and use the HR PIN to hold the strap.. Proper tow hooks that bolt into the chassis are good value to have installed..I guess on small cars like Suzukis you can get away without all this stuff but beware the flying towballs !!! Correct tyre pressure is as important as the tyres especially in sand. We run our Sierras on 235/75/15 with 20 lb most of the time and 12 in sand...

[Gwagensteve]

Maybe Eddy. I've been involved with a bit off offroad driver training over the years and whilst I understand it's limitations and understand that clubs do it to ensure everyone is at (at least) the same base level of ability, it's terribly limited in scope. I hope (guess?) that the number of automatics around now might mean good practice is being taught for them, whilst not wasting time with things like stall stops/key starts, fo example. Hell, when I first did driver training, Autos and coil springs were laughed at, and even locking diffs were a bit of a novelty.

Likewise, theory and practice on the operation of traction control should now be taught but will apply differently to different vehicles.

Part of the problem is though that, much like getting your driver's licence, lots of what is taught is safety related, not necessarily techniques to get the car places it doesn't inherently want to go.

Travel as slowly as possible and only as fast as necessary
Descend in ruts and climb out of ruts
Keep the front wheels pointing in the direction you want the car to travel
Momentum is very rarely your friend.
Pick a line to make the track as flat as possible
Use the gearbox to keep the engine in the correct working range with speed options up and down. (i.e don't start climbing a hill in H4 1st gear)
Don't leave the car in Drive. Use the gearbox and learn to left foot brake

[pktito]

Thank you guys, I really appreciate all your help!

After everything you have suggested, I will, first of all, get the basic tools to carry around just in case I need them:

Air compressor
Tyre deflater
Basic tool kit
Shovels
Jerry can

And from there I will need to decide what is next. I agree with you @Gwagensteve; everything seems to be OK, nothing should go wrong, this path is easy... and BOOM, Murphy law, something happens so I reckon it's a must for me to learn the basic self-recovery techniques being a newbie and travelling solo! I will read a bit more about it and consider the options you all mentioned:

Snatch trap & shackles
Hand winch
Rachet tie down straps
UHF

@sideways, I will definitely consider the AT tyres, at the moment I can afford those $1000. Saying that, I will try the standard ones offroad before starting the trip and see how they feel. In case I end up changing them, what 215/75/15 AT tyres you recommend? Any recommended place to get them around Melbourne?

About the training, I agree it would be more helpful and useful joining a 4wd group or club but at the moment I'm moving around so that won't be an option until I settle down. So for the time being, I will check some training so I become a bit more confident

One more question, any suggestion for an easy 4wd weekend away camping kind of close to Melbourne? It will be our first try with the 4wd

I'm picking the car next week, so looking forward to it!!

[jdk81]

What side of Melbourne?

[Gwagensteve]

*ahem* there happens to be a suzuki club in Melbourne *ahem*

[pktito]

Either side, preferably east if possible.

I have checked the Suzuki club in Melbourne ehehe but I'm leaving the city for a while, so that option will be for when I come back!

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[Gwagensteve]

When are you leaving though, considering you don’t have the car yet?

[pktito]

My girlfriend is picking up the car on Thursday, I'm flying to Melbourne next week, and I'm starting my trip the week after

So basically I have a week to play with the new toy around Melbourne before I depart.

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[sideways]

pktito wrote:

Thank you guys, I really appreciate all your help!

After everything you have suggested, I will, first of all, get the basic tools to carry around just in case I need them:

Air compressor
Tyre deflater
Basic tool kit
Shovels
Jerry can

And from there I will need to decide what is next. I agree with you @Gwagensteve; everything seems to be OK, nothing should go wrong, this path is easy... and BOOM, Murphy law, something happens so I reckon it's a must for me to learn the basic self-recovery techniques being a newbie and travelling solo! I will read a bit more about it and consider the options you all mentioned:

Snatch trap & shackles
Hand winch
Rachet tie down straps
UHF

@sideways, I will definitely consider the AT tyres, at the moment I can afford those $1000. Saying that, I will try the standard ones offroad before starting the trip and see how they feel. In case I end up changing them, what 215/75/15 AT tyres you recommend? Any recommended place to get them around Melbourne?

About the training, I agree it would be more helpful and useful joining a 4wd group or club but at the moment I'm moving around so that won't be an option until I settle down. So for the time being, I will check some training so I become a bit more confident

One more question, any suggestion for an easy 4wd weekend away camping kind of close to Melbourne? It will be our first try with the 4wd

I'm picking the car next week, so looking forward to it!!

IMO a snatch strap is practically essential. I carry a hand winch ($50 on eBay) but most of the times I've gotten stuck it wouldn't have done me any good anyway. I mostly go offroading solo so I carry quite a bit of recovery gear. Really it's hard to prepare for every situation. The biggest thing being by yourself is if you're unsure, walk it, prod it, maybe move some rocks or put some sticks down and if you aren't 90% confident that you aren't going to get stuck then you should find another way. Also if you do get bogged there's absolutely no points for laziness, don't sit there spinning the wheels. Get out and dig out what you can, maybe find some timber to put under the tyres ect. I'd do everything you can before you spin the tyres, dig yourself further down and make it harder to get out.

Recovery gear is a touchy subject, everyone wheels differently in different places with differing numbers and types of vehicles. Everyone has a different experience of "XYZ got me out so easily" or probably more often "if I had XYZ that wouldn't have been a nightmare 6 hour digging marathon". For example a lot of people recommend maxtrax. Personally I've used them a few times and found them pretty much useless, though I've had one time they really could have saved my bacon but I didn't have them then.

If you're getting a tyre deflator then get one that removes the valve core, life is to short for ones that just press the valve in.

Personally I'd skip A/T tyres and go straight to muddies. I've got 215/75r15 Kuhmo KL71s on my Sierra that I'm quite pleased with. They drive well, are silent (not hard in a Sierra), give good traction and have proven to be very tough. They aren't real great on sand, that's not to say they're bad though. I have Hankook RT03s on my Landcruiser and I'm really pleased with how they've performed in all aspects. They're also available in a 215.

If you plan on doing any mud or water crossings then extended diff breathers are an essential mod. I'd also extend the transfer case breather and try and find the one for the auto, I couldn't find it on my Jimny. A member on here had one die from water ingestion in a river crossing.

[pktito]

Hi again!

The Jimny is at home but I won't get back to Melbourne until Thursday, kind of impatience to drive it!

I'm looking at the basics for the recovery kit and I found this deal: https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/produc ... y-kit.html
What do you guys think? I kind of feel it's good enough for starters, I should add a manual winch.

On the other hand, I'm looking at a roof cage, what are your thoughts on this one? https://www.ocamindustries.com.au/alumi ... zuki-jimny

Looking forward to meeting some of you out on the tracks.

Thanks!

[sideways]

I have the same recovery kit. There's nothing wrong with it, it wont exactly blow your socks off for quality but it's more than good enough to do the job. They're unbeatable value.

[Ratman407]

That’s the kit means my mates run never had any issues

I’m running a stick Sierra other then a set of 235 muddys on it
And really she will go anywhere that isn’t stupid

When you hit Byron bay if you want to try some of the tracks around the area out let me know and I will show you some of the good ones

[pktito]

Sweet!!

I will be back in Byron by the end of July so I will definitely text you.

Thanks!

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[pktito]

Hey guys!

Just wanted to let you know I have finally had my first play with the amazing Jimny, soooo much fun!

I went out yesterday for the whole day around Lerderderg and Wombat State Park with a mate who owns a Land Cruiser. I had read a lot about the Jimny and watched a fair bit of videos of different Jimnys but I was still doubtful about its ability offroad; HOW WRONG I WAS! Despite the fact I had never driven a 4WD, I felt completely safe, under control and ready to tackle some challenging tracks. It definitely helped to have my friend there when things got a bit more complicated, but it's still amazing how the Jimny with the standard tyres and no mods at all followed a fully equipped Land Cruiser with muddies. So surprised how it behaved in mud, I was expecting no grip at all but it kept going... it must be unstoppable with AT or muddies. It's so much fun to drive, so responsive and sneaky like no other! Being a newbie I'm glad I got an auto, it made it much easier climbing steep and slippery areas.

I must say you guys were very right as well when it comes to doing a solo 4wd trip. There were places we went through that were heaps of fun but if I had been on my own, I would have given it a second thought just to be safe. Going with another car definitely gives you peace of mind

So after yesterday, I'm kind of excited and I'm considering investing some money (I shouldn't!): 2'' lift kit, 215 AT tyres and a winch (I saw it in action yesterday pulling the LandCruiser and I see how helpful it can be!). I'm happy to hear any advice on any of those items.

I'm not too familiar with 4WD shops, is there any in particular you use because of good deals/service?

So glad to be part of the Jimny family

Thanks!!

[Gwagensteve]

I'm glad you had a great first trip out. That's not always the case and damaging the car, filling it up with water and/or scaring yourself are all things that also happen on first trips.

I don't want to be a part pooper, just pragmatic - but consider this based on your first experience.

A standard car will ALWAYS exceed expectations. The moment you start spending money on it and the more trips you do, the car will only meet them. As an example, the idea "it must be unstoppable with AT or muddies" (and I know you weren't being totally serious, but hear me out) is a good example. A slightly bigger tyre will provide a bit more clearance, sure. A little more aggressive tread pattern will add traction, sure. Will it make a massive difference? No, not really, and what happens in your mind is that the reason you could now drive everything is because of the tyres. And the reason you will have got stuck is because it doesn't have X, or Y or Z. If I take my own car as an example, it has so much equipment and so much tyre and gearing and flex that I will assume it can drive whatever I point it at. Of course it can't, and so I'm denied the excitement of a car that exceeds expectations. Savour this feeling whilst it lasts.

I assume you mean an electric winch when you refer to having seen your mate in a land cruiser. Think very carefully about this, it's an expensive and complex step.

Firstly, you need to choose a bar to mount it in. These are expensive - I haven't looked recently, but you're generally going to be up for $1K or so just for the bull bar to accept the winch. You will undoubtedly need to upgrade the battery to something like a D34 Optima (~300 - there is a model with reversed terminals that suits a Jimny) and if it was my car I'd definitely upgrade the alternator. This is easy with the G series engine in the old Jimny but I'm unsure of the options for the M engine. I think this is critical with an Auto car and single vehicle travel as the consequences of the vehicle stalling out due to low battery voltage and being unable to be restarted could be significant.

As for a winch, A 6000lb winch is plenty but this isn't a common size. 4500lb makes for a light package but can be a little marginal and the smaller mounting pattern makes them difficult to work with and the drum carries less rope. I really like the design of Carbon winches - they do a 9500lb winch which, whilst overkill, is a nice piece of kit.

However, add all this up and you've added 80kg+ to the front of the vehicle. This often, if the car is laden, will take the front axle over weight. Obviously it all requires heavier front springs and/or will reduce the height of advertised lift and will increase the service intervals on front end components, and reduce your ability to clean the radiator (and reduce the effectiveness of the radiator)

And after all that, it hasn't increased the capability of your vehicle one bit.

It's also worth remembering that electric winches, whether by design or installation, are often unreliable. I've seen battery terminals melt off, brakes slip, free spools jam, and countless times where the battery voltage goes so low under winching the car won't re-start. My own winch install won't currently power out due to, I suspect, a solenoid failure. Whilst this could be worked around in an emergency, it's a pain.

That's why I like hand winches. They're not perfect and nobody likes setting them up, but they work and you don't have to do all that^ to be able to self recover in a pinch.

Personally, yes, I'd consider 215 mud terrain tyres.
I'd also fit a rear diff lock, preferably an ARB air locker, which will also give you an air compressor for tyre inflation at a nominal uplift in price.
Diff breathers
Auto trans temperature gauge (this is CRITICAL)

As for suspension, do some critical analysis on this. It doesn't add significant wheel travel. It obviously improves chassis clearance when not compressed. It will improve load carrying and may improve road feel due to increased shock valving. It won't make a massive difference to capability and won't increase the tyre size you can run.

If you're convinced you need it, I'm a little bit torn. ARB (old man emu) offer quality product that's not excessively high, but some with heavy Jimny's with some roof load find the front lift inadequate and the shock valving too soft. With a lighter car I think it will be ideal. Do not be temped by the 3" lifts around. You don't want to do that to the car. In fact, less lift is better for the function of the car.
I would delete the vacuum front hub nonsense, but that's probably for down the track.

Steve.

[pktito]

Thank you so much Gwagensteve for putting time on your reply, really appreciated!!

It makes lots of sense what you say, managing expectations for anything is vital. I didn't have massive ones for the standard Jimny and I was over the moon on Sunday. With a few mods it will get slightly better but not enough to climb Mount Everest

To be honest I was not aware of how much was involved to fit an electric winch... I assumed I would need to change the battery but I didn't think I would need to install as well the bull bar. I will have a proper look at it having in mind everything you mentioned. The hand winch sounds like an option but I'm not familiar with them; with one of those, if I got stuck in a steep mud/sand track, would I be able to pull myself up the hill myself? On Sunday, the LandCruiser couldn't go up a steep mud area (his tyres are due for a change & the Jimny went up!) and using the electric winch, it took him literally two minutes to lift himself up.

I'm going to be using the Jimny as my everyday car so I'm more likely to go for AT tyres instead of mud ones. 215/75 will be the go and probably BF GOODRICH. ARB air locker and diff breathers will happen eventually, but not in the short term. On the other hand, I will definitely look at how to install the Auto trans temperature gauge in my Jimny, that is something I'm really interested in doing as soon as I can and I have no idea

I have been researching and most people recommend either ARB or Tough dog lift kits. From other owners experience, ARB is a bit too soft (exactly what you said) and Tough dog a bit too harsh. Most of my driving will be with the car fairly empty unless when we go for camping trips or road trips. Even so, I don't think we would carry more than 110 kg overall plus the bull bar (when it eventually happens). Knowing that, still better ARB?

You guys are legends, thank you for letting me pick your brain!

[bumstein]

pktito wrote:

ARB air locker and diff breathers will happen eventually, but not in the short term.

Personally I’d look at putting the diff breathers in as soon as you can. They aren’t an expensive bit of kit, on the other hand if you’re playing in mud and water then diffs are expensive-ish.

Perhaps consider a front or rear locker to begin with? Makes it more affordable and will certainly help. Not sure if a front or rear is better for Jimny’s but you could do the other later. I think a nice set of tyres and a locker will be just about the best two single things to getting your car working a bit better offroad. Just to consider.

[Gwagensteve]

Yep, definitely get the diff breathers sorted. Trashing a diff through water ingress is a pain and very easy to prevent.

Yes you'll have no problem winching a car up a hill with a hand winch. It's very slow and requires some planning, but you can also pull yourself backwards out of a hole, or pull the vehicle sideways to get back on a track or out of ruts, and easily right your vehicle if it's fallen over. That's stuff that electric winches aren't very good at. additionally, obviously, all of these things can be done without having to have the car running. It's part of assessing whether, as a lone traveller, you need to get somewhere or not. Part of the thing I dislike about having an electric winch is they tend to change the driver's attitude from "do I need to be here/trying this/getting to the top of this hill" to "I'll just winch up" despite not having any business being on that hill or needing to get there at all.

Bumstein and I are both coming at the same thing - make the car capable enough to safely drive where you need rather than relying on the crutch of a winch to drag the car places it can't (and can be made to) drive.

Rear locker before front.

I like ARB product.

There's plenty of tech on installing a trans temp gauge. It's not very complicated. There are small digital displays that are very easy to fit. You'll generally find the highest temperatures in high range 2WD on dirt roads. Don't exceed 120˚ under any circumstances.

[pktito]

Once again, thanks guys!

I'm completely new to this and my mechanical knowledge is quite low, but after your posts and suggestions I read and read and I get to understand every point you make the more you understand, the more interesting it gets!

So know that I comprehend properly the function of the diff breathers and what might happen leaving them as they are, I will definitely get into it. It doesn't seem to be too complicated extending them myself. Just to be sure, as I extend the diff breathers, I should also extend the transfer case breather, right?

I will keep in mind everything else you suggest and read more about it. One thing at a time!

Thanks!!

[bumstein]

Transfer and gearbox can both be extended too and a good idea it is to do them.

In case you’re not familiar with the reasoning, diffs, gearboxes and transfer case are all a sealed (we’ll kind of) vault so all the oil doesn’t leak out (hopefully). When they operate they become hot, heat inside the vault causes expansion of the contents, ie air. The breather is a small valve that releases excess air when it warms up and allows air to enter when it cools.

When you drive into water or mud a warm diff, gearbox or transfer case will cool down rapidly sucking a bit in via the breather on top. The problem with this is that if that breather valve is under water or muck, that’s what will be sucked into the vault.

So extended breathers just lift that inlet to a higher location so it’s always air at that point (hopefully!!)

Enjoy driving it keep the mods subtle and the smiles abundant

[Gwagensteve]

However, the transfer breather is much more complicated to get to and fit.

[bumstein]

Sure is!! I’ve used BSPT thread tap and a right angled hydraulic fitting.. I’m sure there’s cheap ways and using a thread tap can be dicey, it’s not difficult to wreck the thread and ruin your casing.


Off memory the transfer and gearbox are 1/8” and axle housings 1/4. I can double check if your interested in going that way. Jimny might be different, someone else would have to confirm

[Gwagensteve]

Other way around. Axles are 1/8, transfer is 1/4

[bumstein]

Ah.. I was close