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Vehicle: 89 suzuki sierra

Post Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:32 pm 
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Hi all I know there is a few threads but I will add my 2c I just upgraded my alternator to 125 amp and it just fit. I fitted I believe it's an 07 turbo diesel pajero. It's a tight squeeze and had to get a little creative but it's a good effort. Easy to wire up as it only has 2 plus charge and has v belt already. If anyone wants some pix let me know or I can email some to someone to put up with some more details.. Laters all

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 4:41 pm 
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i want pics, take heaps,
post em to this thread

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 7:00 am 
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125A on a single vee belt? Golly.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:39 pm 
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i really just want to be able to run a few light bars and idle/ drive without draining the battery, but i dont want to have to buy all the pullys/water pump, all that stuff, if i can find a bolt on that would be awesome, or a pully that goes on the falcon 110 to change it to a v belt, also should pull 125amp so it shouldnt load up on the 1 belt that much

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:50 pm 
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I can't get a 100A falcon alternator to deliver anywhere near that with a single v belt. Toyota couldn't get 125A on a single v either and ran twin v's on the 80 series, and they are notorious for chirping.

I'm fascinated how Mitsubishi managed it. I wonder if the belt profile is the same Sierra V Pajero? There's more than one v belt profile.

Steve

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 4:33 pm 
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My Pajero ran a multi v belt on the 110 amp alternator, also it ran seperate belts for the alt ,water pump and air con.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:24 am 
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I'm running a 100A Falcon alternator on the stock V-belt and it's horrendous. I have to retension the belt every couple of tanks of fuel and it needs replacement every few thousand kays due to simply getting chewed out. That's not to mention the squealing when you first start up and it's under load too - night time with lights on is terrible.

Fortunately the belts are cheap as chips and my Sierra doesn't get much use anymore so it's not an issue, but I wouldn't recommend it. I only went that route because I had no idea where to start fitting multi-vee pulleys to the crankshaft, water pump, alternator and air conditioning compressor. If I had the engine out again, I'd make the effort to do it right.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:03 am 
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what if you got come belt conditioner moph, that shits so sticky

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 2:20 pm 
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Tried it ... works for a little while but with the slightest amount of slip it wears off and you're back to square one. That said, I've only tried CRC Belt Grip so it's possible there are better products out there.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:44 pm 
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Sorry haven't been in here for a while will take pix... I only run single belt on it.. Seems happy can tell though when it is changing it saps a fair bit of power from the motor

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 7:28 am 
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What battery are you running? It's possible the battery can't draw enough amps to make the belt slip.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 11:56 am 
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I have 2 batteries..and yes Steve there is a chance of that as well.. Although I draw decent current at times. One has a 600w inverter, plus run spot lights and separate thermo fan too. I have a 100amp battery regulator between them..The batteries are both calcium types if that what you mean... One 580 I think and other is 780

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:56 pm 
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I wasn't asking how much load was on the battery, rather its internal resistance. 580cca is about 45% less than an optima so it might not be able to demand anywhere near as much as the alternator can deliver.

780 should get close but without understanding the loads and configuration of your system I can't comment on whether you'd ever get the bigger battery to pull that hard.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:04 pm 
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I don't think I will ever get to full load on the alternator unless i bolt on a winch and some fully sick subwoofers. I was just after something different and after reading some horror stories about some older model alternators I was after a newer model one...I am running a 13mm wide belt which made a big difference from the stock 10mm belt.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 11:13 pm 
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My issues normally occur when driving at night during camping trips. 2x130W high beams + 4x55W HIDs + fridge + AC + stereo / amp + UHF adds up to around 50A by my mental math. Add to that a drawn-down battery from running the fridge during the day and the alternator works pretty hard.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:15 pm 
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Well that clears it up, it's not on a single v belt, it's on twin v belts, just like Toyota did with the 80 series.

Load on the battery has nothing to do with ability to draw high amperages from the charge circuit. The highest charge current your often likely to see is after starting the car if it's been sitting for some time. My alternator can cause some belt slip in this case, but won't otherwise slip the belt ever, even when winching or running 70A of compressor.

A battery with very low internal resistance will draw very current from the alternator and recharge very quickly from a depleted state. That's not related to load, only charge level.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:18 pm 
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Have you upgraded the charge wire?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 3:56 pm 
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Yeah have upgraded it to 8 gauge over such a short distance of Only half a meter or so should be fine.. If I ever get a which I will upgrade to 4 gauge just to make sure. Also upgraded earth's off the batteries too try and keep it happy.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 6:06 pm 
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I think you're still misunderstanding how the system works.

You might draw 400A out of the battery via the winch, the alternator can still only deliver 125A (when cold and at over 3000rpm)
If your battery is able to draw 125A, you'll slip that single belt. Guaranteed.


Wiring from the alternator to the battery never needs to be able to support more than the alternator can deliver. It also needs a fuse that meets the output of the alternator. If the charge wire is unfused a short in the alternator will lead to armageddon.

I'd invest in a DC clamp meter. They're circa $120 from Jaycar and you don't have to guess what your system is up to.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 9:26 am 
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Fair call I will look into that and I am definitely aware belt will definitely slip with any more draw over say 50amps.. I was just after something different and reliable without crazy horror stories. I plan on in the long term putting twin belts on it and running electronic water pump. I do like a challenge it seems

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 9:50 am 
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Why remove a simple system and replace it with a more complicated system?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 8:07 pm 
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True true

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 9:42 pm 
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I've run electric water pumps because my car ran a water pump I couldn't easily replace. (F6A 660cc turbo)

It was a nightmare.

There are some very good control systems and very good electric water pumps available. Using them would see no tangible benefit on a G13 and would probably cost as much as a replacement motor, which, in the event of a failure, you'll need. The reasons for using an EWP are related primarily to emissions (ergo fuel consumption)

I wouldn't bother with the hassle.

Additionally, moving crank driven load to electrical load is inherently inefficient. Using the alternator to charge the battery to run an electric motor involves significant losses.

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