[Jim_Aus]

the never ending debate 'Jimny Recovery Points'

[pete_79]

Jim_Aus wrote:

the never ending debate 'Jimny Recovery Points'

I recon it's about the only time this: can be used correctly...

[Gwagensteve]

I was thinking the same thing about that rear point. Also, that's a D shackle that looks too small to be safe.

Jtayl153, your new points look to be well made and are undoubtedly preferable to an eye bolt, which are never rated high enough for recovery, but I think they're not the ideal solution.

Recovery load should be kept as close as possible to in line with the chassis- you want to keep leverage to a minimum. You also want the minimum number of connections between the chassis and the recovery point- more connections means more possibility of failure.

Also, when recovering, it's best to try and lift the stuck car, so recovering from chassis level or even below it is a huge advantage over above it.

That red bracket to double up the factory tiedown looks ample to me. Simple and neat.

Steve.

[Jim_Aus]

not wrong pete....

[Gwagensteve]

Anyone would think it was as hard to understand as jimny suspension.

[Xtreme]

I just wanted to know are the recovery points made from mild steel plate? what is the actual minimum thickness you would use? or are they made from some kind of hardened steel?

[Mike57]

I suggest that you only use mild steel. The thickness will depend upon how much edge clearance you have between the hole used for the shackle and what rating you want to achieve for the connection.

Without knowing what you specifically want to achieve I would say nothing less than 10 to 12mm plate and make sure you leave about 20mm to 30mm edge clearance from any hole you drill in it.

Mike

[Xtreme]

With regard to the sideway forces involved and the possibility of the plate bending, would not a peice of flat bar say 8mm (either 20mmor 30mm wide) welded at 90 degree to the plate be enough to stop it being able to bend to either side?

[Gwagensteve]

IMHO I'd use 10mm not 8mm and let it bend if it's over side loaded. You can beef everything up but that force goes somewhere - into bolts, or the chassis, or the radius arm bolts

I think everyone forgets this. You can make a recovery point out of 30mm plate and bolt it to the chassis with 28 16mm bolts, but if the car is stuck on the diffs they're held on with two 12mm bolts. I'd rather bend (or even break) a recovery point than have the car come out of the hole and the axle stay in it.

It happens.

Steve.

[Xtreme]

Steve - do you mean to make the recover point from 10mm plate and let that bend? I was talking about using 12mm plate and welding 8mm flat bar down the side to stop the 12mm plate bending to the side. In terms of the plate itself bending or breaking (if you did in fact mean just use 10mm plate with no bracing as I suggested) what is the possibility of it breaking as opposed to bending? From a safety viewpoint is it not more dangerous to have the recovery point break (even using a damper sheet on the line) as that becomes a potential missile?

[Gwagensteve]

I know what you were intending - 12mm welded to 8mm to create a recovery point suitable for recovering tanks, or something.

More steel doesn't necessarily mean a safer recovery point. A more rigid recovery point isn't automatically better - if you're recovering a jimny with enough side load to bend a 10mm plate, I'd suggest you're overdoing it, and you should be looking for a way of reducing the load by re-rigging, changing the angle, digging away at the obstruction etc.

Mild steel will bend a long, long way - you can fold mild steel 180˚ without it breaking. if you make the recovery point super rigid though, that side loading force is going into the next thing down the line - like the chassis, or the mounting bolts, or the weld you're using to hold that point to something else.

I'd rather not see my recovery point bend or break, but I'd rather break the recovery point than tear that point out of the chassis or worse.

This is in reference to winch recoveries where high loads can be generated at steep angles. This isn't normally the case with a snatch recovery (and shouldn't be - snatching at very steep angles is silly)

I use the stock 1.0 sierra recovery point on the front of my car. It's made from 12mm round bar and 3mm plate. I've bent it being recovered up an undercut bank by a 40" tyred 440 powered Jeep. It's fine. My rear points are 80 series tiedowns, which are 16mm round bar welded to 6mm plate bolted to the chassis with two 12mm bolts. I'm not the least bit worried about any of these points failing. They're light and cheap. They're suitable for the weight of the car.

Steve.

[atari4x4]

Steve, you write pretty words and stuff.

[obansam]

I've fitted the APIO onto the front of my facelift Jimny and it's holding up pretty well, but after two years it is starting to show signs of flexing, so would be better in 9mm.

As for the back I've made my own version that connects to the standard rear recovery and also bolts into the chassis rail. The bar protrudes through the bumper....and if I could figure out how to attach a photo I'd do it!

[BertZook]

Right click on the photo if its on a website/facebook/ect. Select "copy image adress". And paste that in your post between the [img] thingys

[obansam]

Thanks BertZook,

This was my original sketch of my rear tow point. The 3 rear bolts pick up on existing holes (2 x 10mm and 1 x 12mm)



The main towing bar is 8mm plate. I haven't recovered anyone using this and in fact avoid it. But I have been towed backwards out of holes a few times and it's solid.

I've got other pics, but they're not on any websites so not sure how to load those!

Cheers

[BertZook]

photobucket

[Samurai81]

I just picked up this front recovery hook attachment for my Jimny - passenger side. Its 10 mm plate fixed to the chassis with 6 through bolts and crush tubes. Weighs 2.7 kg and puts the tow hook on its side just below the original bumper which may require a bit of trimming. The engineer who made this works just 10 km from me. He is hoping to get in to production but so far's only made two. I cant see any part of this bending but it might offset the weight of the driver.

Steve.





Always good to see local jokers going into Suzuki production.

[zukenutter]

That looks pretty solid, how much?

[Wolf]

If indoubt were can i snatch ahe front from? And yeah, that looks like some prity heavy meatl

[Samurai81]

He's priced it around $NZ150.00 = ~130Aussie. Comes with 6 X 8.8 12 mm bolts crush tubes. washers and nuts. Pretty good deal and yeah - he could call himself Overkill engineering but someone else's got that moniker.
Steve.

[obansam]

The front connection looks good Steve, would be good to see a couple of photos once you've fitted it up.

Couple extra pics of my rear recovery point

[obansam]

My custom rear recovery


Front recovery APIO mount