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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 12:21 am 
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well there is a 9mm option too

Image

teh chassis tube seems alright, is the bolts into the tow tie points that I dnt trust... It is bolted into all of it and in the top close to chassis, not into the soft bottom part of it, but still



can someone please built a proper system :? .... mr Joeblow? maybe? :mrgreen:

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 6:30 am 
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I'd like to see how it's plated on the other side of the bolts, so long as it has some kind of plate to bolt through and clamps strongly to the factory point.
The part that goes into the chassis tube is just to take the load of the snatch.

Side pulls would be my only concern, but I think these have probably been well tested as they've been on the market for some time.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:19 am 
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I am unsure as to how well that section of the chassis will sustain repeated recoveries.
They are probably the best option of whats available, but I would suggest you ensure people who go 4wding with you will be instructed on how to safely recover someone, at the start of the trip and before each recovery. Someone doing a fuckwit recovery endagers lives.

As per why no one else makes them...
I would suspect liability and design difficulty is why there aren't many manufacturers of bolts on recovery points.
There's just way too many variables (cars, drivers, and angles of recovery) to safely sell a bolt on recovery point.

Manufacturers, designers, and the business selling the product are literally all held accountable for the stupidity of the user/s.
In this day and age, stupidity is evolving and growing exponentially, it's impossible for us to engineer it out.
Darwin would be very concerned with the way society has crippled human evolution.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:34 am 
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^^ Have you watched "Idiocracy" it explains everything.

I use the driver side tie point on the front and haven't had a problem, but I have a strap that is suited to the weight of my car.
I would never use the tie point on the passenger side. The rear I use the Hayman Reece hitch.

I'd recommend that if you haven't been trained in recovery, join a good club and learn how to do it properly with a certified trainer.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:43 am 
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where would be the harm bolting up a bracket to the steering box bolts

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:58 am 
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well checking on their website the shipping rates says that it should be around 50$ for a 3kg pakage. no idea on the weight of these, I supose less (thinking if u order two), so is not that bad... also they have some prettty cool stuff I woudl like to get, specially a little steel stick thing that stops the door from closing (finally), plus some cool floor storage options.....


either way, checking on the product

Image

donno the meaning, but think it refers more inot the angle of the rear car (so it wont go sideways or out of the track, rather than angle of recovery for the points

and also

Image

Image

it seems it is only bolts zukenutter, maybe u can put a plate to reinforce them?


I know what you all talking, a proper recovery technique goes miles more than a beef up point and an idiot on the wheel. But the topic is about finding a good option for recovery points in our jimnys, specially on the front. At some point or another the jimny would get stuck, and chances are that we wont be able to recover it from the back, I dont trust on my tie down points to do so, and sadly the only bar with points is the mr Joeblow one. ARB aparently are "too weak" (but still have seen some recoveries from it), and the xrox (the one I want), doesnt have.... ti supose to have some bolt-on hooks, but I think they pop out making it ilegal or something

so for the moment I see these as the best option so far

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:05 am 
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take some more detailed pics of the front chassis rails without that coke can tow hook on it.

im sure something could be designed that will work nicely

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 1:42 pm 
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I think the red one at the top of this page would be sweet. 9mm plate won't have any flex, the main pull load will be on the tube-in-tube section and the bolt through the existing tie down would be enough for side loads but I would still be tempted to reinforce with a backing plate... or at least some decent large washers.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:26 am 
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I wouldnt want to pull up hill with the yellow ones on the stock bumper
I recon it would try and push the tie down up through the bottom of the chassis as it pivit around the tube in the chassis

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:39 am 
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The red one would be good if it come up at the top and picked up the steering box bolts
U could make a templet and just take it to a fab shop and cut it out with a plasma then clean it up with a grinder

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:14 pm 
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well didnt knew this but ORA make some recovery points

Image

Image

Image


seem good, but would be for only jimnys with the stock bumper

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:25 pm 
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Perfect for me then

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:10 pm 
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well there u go then :wink: what you waiting for

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:24 pm 
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I already have a recovery point plan ;)

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 12:56 pm 
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How do you guys think the ORA bolt-ons would go with a new shape Jimny? If anything I reckon they might be too short to poke through the chunky bumper.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 1:46 pm 
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They may have a "facelift model" kit

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 10:23 am 
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Nice quick response back from ORA:

We are making some revisions to the design in the next week or two to make the tow points compatible with the 2013 model Jimny.

I can let you know when the new tow points are available.

Kind regards,
Hen

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:59 pm 
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I found these designs..

Front

Image

Image


Rear

Image

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:14 pm 
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Look lke a new version on the one I found. Where are those from? Jap too? Price?

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 8:34 pm 
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yea its jap, about $60 a piece for either of them. There is another front end design but it involves butchering the chassis and caps

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:20 am 
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This is so simple, I like... I think I make :)

Image

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:25 am 
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And acn u make more? :D

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:26 am 
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These are laser cut I guess?

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:58 pm 
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I'll keep the cardboard template ;)
Skippy yeah I reckon. I'm thinking, 8mm plate, bit of patience with the angle grinder and some tedious drilling. Only negative to the design is that it's only braced vertically and that it's bolted to steering box mounts.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:49 pm 
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Double check it all as this is a jap Jimny its made to suit.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 7:31 am 
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Mounting points all look the same

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:02 am 
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I should have explained that better. See how it has the round piece cut out of it, I haven't looked on my jimny to see if that's needed to be done for oirs. Nothing major and you would probably pick that up anyway when you do the template.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:31 pm 
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I have an Xrox Bull bar on my 08 Jimny

Outback Accessories supply some I-bolts that bolt into the holes I've circled in this image below. I discourage using them. I've heard of instances where the whole bash plate has been irreparably damaged from recoveries using those points. Think about it. You have all that force going through one solitary sheet of metal aka bash plate.

Image

Instead, I had these made up. One on each side

Image

Now, if I need recovering, I can use these custom made recovery points that I can use in pairs using an equalizer strap (aka tree trunk protector). This places the force directly down the two chassis rails making the recovery safer and with less risk of damage.

And now, for no reason. Some Jimny-porn.

Image

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:47 am 
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Skippy wrote:
I found these designs..

Rear

Image

Image


I know this is an old post but regardless, this design gets so close to right then gets stupid. Recovery points should not contain welds in them if it can be avoided. If you instead ran the flat bar out longer and then had a hole in it big enough for the shackle to pass through it would be much stronger than adding the tube for the shackle to be changed to horizontal.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:03 am 
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^ And put it in the actual chassis rail, not that piece they've bolted to that's only stitch welded to the chassis.

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