[Santos]

(re)Building a 1.4 litre

[PJ.zook]

I thought crate motors were meant to be turnkey

[Santos]

PJ.zook wrote:

I thought crate motors were meant to be turnkey

[shandy92]

keen to see how this turns out. more pics?

[Santos]

soon, snapped a stud on the waterpump (playing with the 3/8 torque wrenh lowest setting :S )

now i got to extract the stud, but after that the whle assembly should be quick

To summarise
G13A crank (77mm stroke)
G16A 1mm oversize piston (76mm bore)
G13b Gti Rods (19mm pins that fit the vitara pistons)
76mmx77mmx4 cylinders = 1397cc

The rest is pretty standard, decided to skip the cam etc for now given time restraints.

[shandy92]

So given that some 1.3L blocks are 1324cm3, and your getting 1397cm3, do you think .073cm3 will make much of a difference?
I think to get any change you need to do a cam and something with the intake and exhaust systems. Also what compression ratio are you aiming for?

Are getting it dyno'd? It would be interesting to see the difference.

[Santos]

whilst 'B' 1298cc and 'A' 1324cc blocks both advertised same peak power in 8v form, something i picked up on the Suzuki.co.jp old car information page (which is sadly now gone) is that the 'A' blocks had 103Nm of torque (B 100Nm ) and produced peak power 500rpm lower than the 'B'. This was taken from two g13 engined cars models only several years apart.

The other thing was the cultus/swift 'A' block specs got watered down through the 80's which coincided DOHC B. don't know if that was detuning for pollution or just clever marketing to make the 16v appear so much better than the 8v.


Even if i don't see radical gains in peak power i suspect that the torque curve/spread might be considerably improved without a cam upgrade. My 'goal' for the sake of having one is hoping to be near G13bb in a no frills Carby form. (55kw 110nm) If i think of it as 8v 1397cc over 8v 1298cc i believe the 99cc has to do something, its not like the g16a head/cam is that different so its not like the 99cc will dispear through suffication. Redlinegti and teamswift.net have a few dyno results with a mixed bag of decent results with just stock displacements.

Will be playing with the carb/intake and jetting with a OEM vitara g16a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold replacing the iron log sierra one. In the end machining 74mm to 76mm isn't that much dearer than 75mm so its 'just a rebuild' engine build territory. Stuff you can do if yu are rebuilding a 1.3l 8v rather than engine swap. So far i'm under $1000 including parts and a fresh clutch for an engine that should last another 10 years (optimism is a trait of mine . )

I did get baselines of my g13ba with a GTech RR meter but they won't help anymore as the engine is going straight into the LWB rather than the WT SWB tuning period i'd planned so many years ago. Might dyno it later in the year but don't have tie or fuds at the moment.

[Santos]

camera lens broke have more photos will post up when i have time... these last 5 are on my new phone haven't got time to flip them as i'm off to work... just rtte your screen 90 degrees....



note added brace from DOHC B block, also seen them in G16's, if someone could give the official nae for them it would be tops




Pistons took forever to assemble, really kicking myself for passing up the thousands of circlip pliers i have seen at garage sales, i did these with curved surgical forceps (new bearings will go in at instal tomorrow)

[JrZook]

What head you got to go on it? I may have a 1600 8V head complete with cam laying around which may help extract a few more ponies

[Santos]

stock 8v g13a head.

I actually had a rebuilt g16a head that i got for the project many moons ago, had intended to pull the cam as according to 'mike' on Teamswift it had a hairline more lift/duration over the g13 cam. Ended up selling the head to someone on here who needed it at the time. Now i'm just cash strapped which is why i'm skipping a snazzy torquer cam as i need all the money for blueslip+rego+trip*to*fraser*island*september

I'm not really certain the bigger exhaust valves (going from memory might be the intake) will help mid-range ponies, certainly might at top end. Also from memory is the intake port are like 1mm bigger. Tepending on the tuning circles some say this flows more, other say the drop in pressure offsets any gain. So many variables and opinions from different engine builders

The hopefully going to be a general broad spread rather than a high RPM knife edge. Layman terms i'd prefer 5 hp across the range rather than an isolated 12-15hp at the peak!

Bright side is work just called teling me i start at 6 and not 5 so i might see if i can fix the images.

[atari4x4]

bottom end engine brace = rank girdle

[Santos]

atari4x4 wrote:

bottom end engine brace = rank girdle

What he said

[atari4x4]

whoops, that was ment to be crank girdle... can't even blame auto-correct on that one.

[Santos]

funny i read crank girdle