[kyzermattingley]

Why
Picked up a bundy housing and axles for $100, still need to find a front complete unit though
1- I've been toying with this idea for a while, and just decided 'why not' and 'because I can'
2- Blown two rear centers while towing my trailer, and a transfer case (upgraded to a Sierra transfer now)
3- Also hoping the added 'bulk' in the front might get rid of my 'Jimny wobble' which I've tried everything to fix
4- my Jim has already been blue plated for front and rear axles when it was plated for the turbo kit.
5- if I decide their not for me in the end I will always be able to sell them for what they owe me



What's the car used for
I mainly do beach work so I'm not after crazy flex, I also tow a medium sized trailer 80% of the time and when we go camping. I have a heavy foot and like boost.


The plan
To have both complete axles looking as close to the Jimny axles as possible, ie copy brackets and everything etc.
keen to take my time too.


Planned -Rear
- disk conversion
- shaved and armored pumpkin
- shortened housing (approx 30mm)
- heavier duty brackets
- re-drill axles back to suzi 5 stud
- use Jimny front disks
- dash fitting for breather
- new RD132 air locker

Planned -Front
- shaved and armored pumpkin
- shortened housing
- 7deg pos caster
- rotated pumpkin
- braced knuckles
- dash fitting for breather
- new RD132 air locker
-Tail shafts? Was going to run these LowRangeOffroad flanges,
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... lange.html



Cost of parts (will keep updating)
- $100. rear housing
- $160. Toyota/Suzuki pinion flanges + Russell speed bleeders
- $20. New 1.5 pitch wheel nuts
- $34. New rear wheel studs
- $120. Axles re drilled to 5 stud
- $50. 4:1 High pinion Toyota 80series (super cheap find)



Sorry for the crappy ipotato photos



Stripped down the housing





Huge axles










Cut brackets off with the plasma cutter





Stripped axles ready for re-drilling and checking disk fitment, thinking of using Jimny front disks, trying them on tonight





Diff flanges and Russell speed bleeders turned up today





New 1.5 pitch wheel nuts to suit the Toyota studs $20, way cheaper than changing studs





High pinion 8" 4:1 out of an 80series cruiser front

[Bugsta]

Set yourself up a vat of Molasses and drop your parts in, to remove rust. Can take a week or 3 but does a fantastic job, and its very cheap.

[Brenno]

Lovely work mate. I was too contemplating this before I ended up selling my turbo lwb. Can't wait to see how it ends up.

[kyzermattingley]

Bugsta wrote:

Set yourself up a vat of Molasses and drop your parts in, to remove rust. Can take a week or 3 but does a fantastic job, and its very cheap.

Have never heard of this, will just get the housing sand blasted I think, good to keep in mind for another project

[alien]

This is going to be awesome. Are you going to use hilux drive shafts so you get stronger uni joints?

Looking forward to seeing the updates.

[kyzermattingley]

alien wrote:

Are you going to use hilux drive shafts so you get stronger uni joints?

At this time I was going to use the Sierra shafts, if I find that they fail ill change to Toyota shafts, if I run these

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... lange.html

Pinion flanges I can just bolt everything up and at $29 ea they are cheap

[alien]

I decided on custom shafts in mine in the end... much stronger, and i'm running hilux double cardans at the tcase end (ie: bulletproof) - the other ends of my shafts (the splined ends) are interchangeable - so if i break a rear uni (suzuki uni so its the weak link) i can swap it with the front and continue in rear wheel drive to get home, rather than being stuck in front wheel drive.

[just_cruizin]

Was going to say, keep the uni's as the weakest point in the drive line. Cheap and easy to replace.

[missmyljdaze]

just_cruizin wrote:

Was going to say, keep the uni's as the weakest point in the drive line. Cheap and easy to replace.

uni's might be easy to replace- but when they pop- they can do horrendous damage.

Many years ago, I dropped a rear propshaft uni, [the front universal joint] and shattered the extension housing of my gearbox / bent the output shaft.
I was damn lucky the propshaft didnt drop off and dig into the road.

If you are going to give your uni's a hard life- replace them before they fail.
if possible- fit driveshaft loops so you can catch the shaft before it breaks free.

stephen


edited to fill in detail

[alien]

^^ Thats why i've got a hilux double cardan at the tcase ends, so if its going to let go, it will do it at the diff ends - which are made the same front and rear so they are interchangable =)

You are right though, last time i broke a uni (the only time) when it let go it bent the lobes that hold the uni, so it wasnt as simple as just replacing uni joint, i needed a new shaft made basically.

[just_cruizin]

Still cheaper then a diff or a transfer case.

Front shafts are an issue as you can't fit loops to prevent the front dropping down.

[kyzermattingley]

I'm going to follow the current trend and add all photos etc to my first post, will get some more work done tomorrow night

Kyzer

[kyzermattingley]

Still after a Bundera Front if someone knows of one somewhere

[alien]

Try outerlimits?

[kyzermattingley]

alien wrote:

Try outerlimits?

Just signed up, fingers crossed, would like to get one before I go on holidays in 2weeks

Kyzer

[Kerrod]

I have a bundera front housing

[Kerrod]

It's just a bare housing tho

[BlueSuzy]

Don't use Bundera front. Use Hilux. Same shit but dirty30's or longfields fit.

The pumpkin centre is more in the middle with a bundy front.



Or if you super bundy keen. I have axles here to post. You will not be able to redrill the front hubs. Just the way they are designed. Try get vented discs and calipers. All hilux/bundera solid axle parts interchange easily

[kyzermattingley]

Ok so now thinking of using LUX front housing with BUNDY steering arms, with my 80series 4.1 and I'll make all the rods, thanks heaps for the advice guys.

Kyzer

[kyzermattingley]

OR (just had a brain wave) I could use the lux housing and only shorten the drivers side axle and axle tube, hmmmm, wish I had all the stuff sitting at home to just measure up

[SierraDan]

I would just use a hilux front, then parts are abundant.

[jonno_racing]

Superduki has a mate with shortened Lux duffs f&r in his wide track. So it is very achievable

[kyzermattingley]

So now chasing
- Front bundy hubs with steering arms or just steering arms
- Front bundy longside axle
- lux housing

Kyzer

[got_bar_work]

Y do u want cut it down

[kyzermattingley]

got_bar_work wrote:

Y do u want cut it down

My guy will only plate it if the axles and stud pattern are the same as before.


On another note, thinking of not trussing/bracing these Toyota housings, they already seam way heavier duty than the suzi stuff, really carnt see them bending.

Bought a complete HILUX front end wheel to wheel (yes, it even came with the wheels) for $200, will set about stripping it soon, still need BUNDERA steering arms though, and would love a BUNDERA long side axle to compare to the HILUX one.


Kyzer

[jonno_racing]

why not use 80'series steering arms/kunckes?

[kyzermattingley]

jonno_racing wrote:

why not use 80'series steering arms/kunckes?

No reason, just had no experience with Toyota stuff, have found the bundy stuff I need anyway, will grab it in a week and get started, I'm off snowboarding for this week though so the car can wait

Kyzer

[SierraDan]

jonno_racing wrote:

why not use 80'series steering arms/kunckes?

Why?

[jonno_racing]

ah was just for avalability!

[BlueSuzy]

Different. That's why.

He will only need the bundy arms once.