[atari4x4]

murpha86 wrote:

Had a search on the interweb for the headers you mention cant find anything. think i will take her to a zorst shop and see how much for custom headers n zorst.....

you must be running a different interwebz

they are Wildcat Headers. made by the same people as Genie exhausts...

http://www.outdoorauto4x4.com/p/6140525 ... ctors.html

personally i'd buy direct & save rather than lining the pockets of an onseller.

[murpha86]

HAHAHA i just found this too....

Wild cat huh ill get on it.

[murpha86]

So these will bolt up then hey?? then just need rest of exhaust, cat n muflers etc do they have a input for the o2 sensors and the pipe from the intake manifold? Pics are hard to see..

[atari4x4]

yeah they bolt up, but have their issues due to being designed for the 08-95 Grand Vitara, they have o2 sensor bungs & the EGR pipe bolts onto the RHS header.

[Stuey]

atari4x4 wrote:

murpha86 wrote:

mines a LWB. BUT i think Stuey's had the H20 then he did the H27 swap? same as i have? (correct me if im wrong)

Has anyone had custom exhaust made up? or know if there are aftermarket headers for the v6??

stuey's was a SV420 (J20a) & it dropped a valve from memory & got a H20a gearbag, loom & ecu onto a H27a.

Correct ^^^^^^

My headers are branded "Redback"

Fitting the GV headers onto an H20, H25 or H27 engine isn't the issue. It's using those headers in conjunction with a H series motor, in a SV series body. Clearances and things that want to melt pose the problem. Modification would be advised....

[atari4x4]

Redback/Wildcat sound very similar... i might have confused myself

[murpha86]

EGR pipe?? and by rhs is that looking at it from the front? I think if they bolt up i can prob modify what ever needs to be to make em fit especialy for half the price of having something made.... (sorry for my newbie-ness only had this car 1 month and already swapped engine twice so im learning fast but i dont know all the terms for stuff....like EGR)

And i have found Wildcat but not redback? But im thinking well placed heat shielding will over this??

[atari4x4]

EGR pipe = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, i thought that's what you ment when you mentioned intake pipe. it feeds exhaust gas back into the engine as part of emissions control.

RHS = drivers side

[murpha86]

yer thats what i thought (by rhs). mines on that side. are you saying that the headders are on the other side? sounds like ill just get em and go from there.

Stuey i need to talk to you about where you got your stuff from!!

[atari4x4]

the EGR pipe bolts to the new extractors in the same spot as the factory exhaust, on the RHS header.

it can be a tight fit from what others have posted.

there is a bung in each header for the factory o2 sensors.

[murpha86]

Ok cool. thats good. So will all bolt straight up. just need some heat shielding to stop melting things

Thanks for your help.

[atari4x4]

ceramic coat them & you probably wont need to worry about heat shielding

Stuey wrote:

Fitting the GV headers onto an H20, H25 or H27 engine isn't the issue. It's using those headers in conjunction with a H series motor, in a SV series body. Clearances and things that want to melt pose the problem. Modification would be advised....

what he said

[murpha86]

they look ceramic coated already.... prob not but yer... how much would it cost to do?

[atari4x4]

NFI, you're in perth so probably twice as much as mainland australia. they'd just have a heat proof paint on them.

NFI = No Fuxking Idea

[murpha86]

Yeah i got that hahaha.
and yes your prob right.... everything is nearly twice as expensive here.... sucks

[tassie jeeper]

so form the people that have transplanted the h27 into h20 vit would it be better to use existing loom or use 2.7 loom and ecu??

my 2nd cousin told me he can get me an engine, gearbox and loom for about $1,500-$2,000

[atari4x4]

Stuey wrote:

^^^^^^ what he said!

My mutant is a 2.7 block and head, H20A inlet manifold (with all relevant sensors etc) mated to a H20A ECU. The vehicle was initially configured with 2.5L injectors but this overfuelled terribly returning around 20L/100km. Would run rough, stall at lights etc. Reverted back to 2.0L injectors, now runs perfectly. Returning 11.0-12.0L/100km (and that's with all the roof rack & spotty drag I have in the roof along with 31s etc). Fuelling was tested with wideband sensors and falls within spec. Spark plugs also show normal wear. The 2.0 ECU is simply compensating for the larger capacity by upping the fuel. I think 2.7 injectors is a bad idea unless you are doing a full H27A conversion (ECU, sensors... the whole box and dice).

^^^^^^ what he said on page 2

[tassie jeeper]

atari4x4 wrote:

^^^^^^ what he said on page 2

so are u saying just do that because it works or do u beleive im better off with the h20a intake/harness/ecu?

it would be my understanding the above was done because it was cheaper/easier but does that mean if i have access to the correct ecu/harness that i should not use them...?

[atari4x4]

it was built by suzistore in perth & i'd have a guess that they had access to everything but when with that combo for ease of instillation rather than trying to integrate the H27a ecu & loom & knowing stuey & looking at his build i'd guess that doing it on the cheap wasn't an option

i'd say there would be enough of a difference between the xl-7 loom & ecu to make it a hassle to strip out what you do & dont want, eg factory integrated immobiliser with transponder keys, cruise etc... factory wiring looms are a beautiful thing & are nice & reliable.

[murpha86]

^^ Pretty much. If your keen on this conversion, its works fine with the h20 loom n accessories. I dont see any problems with it and now its been done a few times i reckon i would do it this way. pulling apart looms is messy n time consuming especially when you can do it this way and it all plugs in nicely n runs a treat....

[tassie jeeper]

thanks for the straight answer guys i read before that he did it that way i just wanted to know why. if i do go down this rd thats exactly what ill do thanks

[headwerkn]

This may be a dumb question (apologies in advance) but what is the possibility of a H27A fitting in a 1993 Vit LWB where a G16B once lived? I'm talking about physical/fitment/engine mount considerations here, obviously all the electrics, loom and ECU would have to come over with the new engine. I recall reading somewhere that the 2.0L V6 Vitaras were a bit wider in the engine bay, compared to the inline-4s, in order to take the wider, larger engine.

Cheers, Ben.

[atari4x4]

yeah it can be done, there was a fella on here that has done it, will try & find his build thread.

[vitzookman]

its a tight fit and you need to fit a body lift too

[DarkHorse]

Dezook dunnit:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10355

[murpha86]

UPDATE! UPDATE! UPYOURDATE!

OK! New radiator in! great! $130 from ebay over east somewhere. Immobiliser installed to keep who ever it is that cares about that stuff happy. And getting ready for it to go in for a pits inspection! HOWEVER! The massive exhaust leak is back after the guys at zorst shop had a look. AND the car seams really down on power. SOO I pulled it off and took to the cat with a "unblocking tool" bolted it all back up and went for a spin...... WELL! HOLY SHEEEEEET!!! she is a new car! even dropped a big skid with tyre smoke and all! Proper quick car now!! cant wait to do the headders and zorst should be even better!!

Problems: Still have a noisy lifter/maybe chain? its a constant ticking and doesn't go away when warm. im going to drop the oil and put fresh and do the 2000rpm for 20mins thing and see if it goes away other wise i ges the chain is comming off.... OR how hard are valves to replace? OR does anyone have any other ideas or fixes??

ALSO does anyone know if its a roadworthy item to have head rests in you rear seats? mine are missing...

[atari4x4]

what weight oil have you got in it?

bung a serve of nulon oil flush in it before dumping the oil & let it idle for 10-15 mins

[murpha86]

I have a 5W30 i think.... or a 10W30.... the one everyone recommends anyways. Yer ill do that too! was already thinking that do you think it could "unstick" the valve?

[atari4x4]

i tried 5w/30 & found it too thin & run 10w/40, the oil flush will help clear out the hydraulic chain tensioners & any other crap.

[murpha86]

Alright ill give it a crack. Its kinda embarrassing noise. especially seeing how well it goes now! Rocket ship!