[boost=money]

I was wondering if any one knows if u can pit the rocky road yj kit in to a nt.
is it hard to convert the mounts to wt position? or would a whole wt chassis b the better option?
I have tried searching but no luck thanks

[Mitchie.1]

You can do it. I set mine up nt with that kit. You have to cut and re drill a few of the brackets. I'm not sure about the front chassis extension bit. My chassis was already extended for ruf so I didn't use that bit. I still have the complete kit here if your interested. My build has changed direction again.

[alien]

IMO its more hassle than its worth, and you're better off going full RUF and doing a guard chop then wheel the pants off it. You'll save a fortune.

[boost=money]

how much u chasing for the complet kit? pm me thanks

[SierraDan]

alien wrote:

IMO its more hassle than its worth, and you're better off going full RUF and doing a guard chop then wheel the pants off it. You'll save a fortune.

If he wants a YJ setup and youre suggesting a fabricated spring setup rather than bolt in... Would he just fabricate YJ stuff in?

[alien]

approach angle isnt as good, longer driveshafts are needed, brake lines... the list goes on... more so than a full RUF requires.

[SuziBlu]

Alien, as I understand it, you have had yj, wouldn't the springs being 9" longer than stock sierra springs make for far better articulation than RUF, so making the effort worthy ?

I have the kit, but so far no tie to start it yet, The kit comes with everything as I see, bit of a hassel, yes, but hoping the end result will condone the trials of instalation.

[alien]

mines kinda like YJ - mines hilux springs because theyre cheaper and easier to get than YJ.

they do give more flex, yes - however the worsened approach angle has bitten me in the ass a few times. The trick there might be to run hilux rear leaves (longer again, but they have an offset center pin, so you could run the short end forward). Still be a worse approach angle than a properly done full ruf though.

The next issue is spring rate... hilux and YJ are higher sprung, to get them to flex properly they need leaves removed which flattens them out... my leaf packs are dead flat to get the flex i have in the front end (the rear isnt heavy enough to flex the hilux leaves much at all). This is ok for me, as mines done SPOA so i've got the lift from the SPOA to let me run flat leaves. Of course, SPOA means hi-steer kit is required also (more $$$).

CREWSY on here ran the YJ kit with hilux leaves SPUA (search his build thread) - he had the exact issues i described above - to get the height he needed from the leaves he had to run 4 in a pack compared to my 2. This meant it was stiff as, and most of his flex came from running drop shackles front and rear, not the springs themselves.

More hassle than its worth. Honestly, if i was to build another sierra i'd go full ruf, guard chop, twin airlockers, 1.6efi, 5.14tcase and stick with 31x10.5r15's

[SuziBlu]

A YJ is not a lot heavier than a LWB sierra, I believe, my style of driving is not rocks where approach or departure angles is most important, might have blown me $$$ but my way of thinking, getting longer springs makes for softer ride, ok, fiddling with leaf count may be an issue, but the little sierra front springs makes for a harsh ride, and needing much softer.

That said, before I do the YJ set up, RUF will be a go, quick to install, so less down time, will see if the longer YJs are worth the hassel after running that for a while.

Have a set of soft OME rears to go in asap.

[SierraDan]

Gotta watch that approach

[KEENSY85]

Arb sells yj spring for pretty much the same price as zook springs or so I hear

[boost=money]

I was planing wt diffs on nt spacings with 50mm spacers. yj springs spoa and 33"s with 6.5 gearing.
will this b worth it or should I b doing ruf and 323 sprimgs rear spoa ect.

was even thinking 4link rear

[scottiej]

Just to bump an old thread, It's easy to make your own YJ kit on the NT, Yes the approach angle does suffer with YJs but if running 33s it's not too bad.

I made my front spring relocation plates so that they moved the chassis spring mount 100mm back and down 20mm from stock and then re-drilled the spring perches and plates 25mm back to push the axle forwards again so that the approach angle was kept as good as possible. For the front shackle hangers I opened up the bolt holes in the chassis legs to 12mm sleeved them and then made some bolt on chassis extensions.

On the rear I simply made some relocation plates to move the chassis spring mounts forwards 75mm and 20mm down then I just run some 140mm long shackles in the rear.

As for the spring rate, stock YJs are actually a lot softer than most SJ lift springs, I run stock 5-leaf in the rear and 4-leaf in the front and it rides and flexes nicely, but I think it's limited by the 9.5" travel shocks I'm running at the moment.

[SuziBlu]

You wouldn't have line drawings by any chance ?

[scottiej]

I have but I need to alter the front shackle hanger slightly to reduce the caster angle and add a little lift, at the moment I've got a bit more caster than I want and the front sits a little lower than the rear.

I noticed talk of longer driveshafts earlier in the thread. I've got about 25mm lift with the YJ set up and the tcase is lifted 50mm and I just run SJ410 driveshafts, they are a bit longer than samurai driveshafts and fit perfectly.