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Post Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 4:12 pm 
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mnemonix wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
with the way the G16b's seem to be cracking i'd be building to suit a J20a, 94kW @ 6000rpm Torque 174Nm would make a sierra motor along nicely.

:deadhorse:
You're flogging the g16 cracking issue lately aren't you? Every time the engine is mentioned I just sit back and wait for your 2c.
Yes, a lot have cracked. They've still been THE engine of choice for vitara's and sierras for the past 15 odd years and have proven themselves worthy.


I've flogged the shit out of my current g16. It's been boosted at 16psi, overheated, Flogged mercilessly at a 7500rpm redline through sand and mud, abused with inadequate filtration.
It's currently getting rebuilt - despite being in OK health, because I want to run more boost and more power.

It got a clean bill of health and no signs of cracks. They're not the pure lemon that you seem to be making out lately. How many g16's do/have you owned?



:roll:

with the sheer volume that are turning up cracked lately, you'd have to be concerned about the condition of the block when installing one... how about we ask buzbox how many block he's upto now while looking for one that is suitable for a rebuild?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 4:20 pm 
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I've only ever stripped 2 G16's down. 50% of those were cracked.

However I have owned and installed another 6 that have been completely trouble free to date, so I wouldn't assume that its a majority issue.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:11 pm 
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I've seen a few cracked G16A's and a few cracked G16B's... but in the scheme of things, I don't think it's an endemic problem compared to coiler G13's dropping piston skirts or similar. My own G16B has flogged stem seals but once it's hot it's good as gold - it's from an early LWB and has 220K on it or something and runs smooth and makes power. Same with the G16 baleno in the Tug - 220K+ - smoky stem seals, that's it.

I don't think there's really a feasible easy alternative to the G16. It might be a J20, if someone can work out how to run an engine fan on one in a sierra.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:48 am 
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mnemonix wrote:
It got a clean bill of health and no signs of cracks. They're not the pure lemon that you seem to be making out lately. How many g16's do/have you owned?

I've owned 5x G16s so far and every one has been cracked!

All either cracked at the rear near the drivers side head bolt or at the front drivers side adjacent to the pipe behind the water pump - or both places (the one in my white coily).

Strangely enough none of the cracks have been bad enough to cause a catastophic failure - so they are not exactly a lemon but it is annoying to have to do a chem-i-weld treatment every once in a while.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:42 pm 
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Reubs wrote:
I've owned 5x G16s so far and every one has been cracked!




How many kms on those? That SWB you got from WA was absolutely fucked from bumper to bumper. I would not be suprised after finding a crack in the block of that thing. Everything else was cracked :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 9:56 am 
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Got pics of the 1 in your lj tanshi

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 9:59 am 
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http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=15709

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=15473

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 12:22 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
Reubs wrote:
I've owned 5x G16s so far and every one has been cracked!

How many kms on those? That SWB you got from WA was absolutely ****** from bumper to bumper. I would not be suprised after finding a crack in the block of that thing. Everything else was cracked :lol:

Lots of kms on every engine, but after owning 5 of them - all with very similar cracks you would expect the majority to eventually be the same!

1- White coily G16a - confirmed cracked at 45,000km since full rebuild (total km unknown)
2 - G16a block I bought off a club member knowing it was already cracked - probably 200,000km
3 - SWB Vit (the WA one!) G16a - suspected crack at 275,000.
4 - white LWB Vit G16a - confirmed cracked at 285,000 removal
5 - grey LWB Vit G16b - confirmed cracked at 300,000 during head gasket replacement

Yeah Fatzook that SWB was stuffed - replaced by a LWB with a near perfect chassis except for the poorly deisgned later model gearbox crossmember which was replaced with an earlier one!

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 12:45 pm 
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I guess I don't see this issue very often, as almost all of the G16B's I've had anything to do with had between 25K and 90K on the clock. Pehaps they haven't seen enough hot/cold cycles to crack yet ?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 12:49 pm 
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Any one seen a cracked baleno one yet???

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 1:10 pm 
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Nope.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 5:34 pm 
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Would they be differently cast I doubt it, I'm not taking the piss promise, just most car manufacturers would use the same mold

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 6:03 pm 
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KEENSY85 wrote:
Would they be differently cast I doubt it, I'm not taking the piss promise, just most car manufacturers would use the same mold



Same casting, but maybe a higher grade alloy? Maybe the balenos don't crack because they are mounted differently, and don't see the same levels of vibration that a vitara might when driven offroad?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 8:02 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
KEENSY85 wrote:
Would they be differently cast I doubt it, I'm not taking the piss promise, just most car manufacturers would use the same mold



Same casting, but maybe a higher grade alloy? Maybe the balenos don't crack because they are mounted differently, and don't see the same levels of vibration that a vitara might when driven offroad?

Could be

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 8:16 pm 
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KEENSY85 wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
KEENSY85 wrote:
Would they be differently cast I doubt it, I'm not taking the piss promise, just most car manufacturers would use the same mold



Same casting, but maybe a higher grade alloy? Maybe the balenos don't crack because they are mounted differently, and don't see the same levels of vibration that a vitara might when driven offroad?

Could be


you'd think after all the years that they pumped them out they would have worn out the original casts at least once? that & better quality control on the recycled alloys used in the later 90's.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 9:46 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
KEENSY85 wrote:
Would they be differently cast I doubt it, I'm not taking the piss promise, just most car manufacturers would use the same mold



Same casting, but maybe a higher grade alloy? Maybe the balenos don't crack because they are mounted differently, and don't see the same levels of vibration that a vitara might when driven offroad?


I doubt the majority of Vits go offroad.

Superior cooling system in the Bals?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 1:38 pm 
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I'd say it would actually be exspensive to redesign a new mold, it could be better chemical composition but they would only change it if they new something was wrong or by chance I suppose, maybe it's better cooling or mounting who knows.
Maybe there just overstressed.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 1:51 pm 
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Manufacturers revise stuff all the time - they don't always make a song and dance about it or publicise the revisions. Most G16's in Balenos will be newer than most G16's in vitaras, so it's quite possible there's been a revision that's corrected the issue.

Take into account that at some point the G16 block was revised to accept a crank angle sensor for the later coil pack baleno, for an example of how molds get changed over the years. It's quite possible a different mold was used for Baleno and vitara.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 7:38 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Manufacturers revise stuff all the time - they don't always make a song and dance about it or publicise the revisions. Most G16's in Balenos will be newer than most G16's in vitaras, so it's quite possible there's been a revision that's corrected the issue.

Take into account that at some point the G16 block was revised to accept a crank angle sensor for the later coil pack baleno, for an example of how molds get changed over the years. It's quite possible a different mold was used for Baleno and vitara.

Steve.

U could be right there's a lot of variables to consider especially when they added the crank angle sensor :)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 8:19 pm 
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alien wrote:
Surely taking the m15 VVT out of a swift is a better option than going to a j20??? Of course, you need to figure out the immobiliser, but other than that the m15 is a great little motor!


here's one i prepared earlier, m15 swift motor in a wt chassis with coily body :) i take zero credit for this build
Image
Image
Image

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 9:18 pm 
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That's one beast of a coily

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 4:23 am 
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See those things called leaf springs? Coilys don't have those.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 6:08 am 
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It's a coil tub though. See those things called strut access caps on the inner guards? leaf cars don't have those :D

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:12 am 
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coooool, so Brian finally got it to work then =)

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:41 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
It's a coil tub though. See those things called strut access caps on the inner guards? leaf cars don't have those :D

Steve.

Still not a proper coily, doesn't have all the ghey bits that break all the time :thefinger:

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:49 am 
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Good point. :D

Steve

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 11:41 am 
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Best parts of a coily

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Isnt the coily higher under the bonnet as well so there is more room for air intake with out bl

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:59 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
Isnt the coily higher under the bonnet as well so there is more room for air intake with out bl



That only applies to the vitara G16B with the stupid cross-over manifold.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 9:19 pm 
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alien wrote:
coooool, so Brian finally got it to work then =)

yep, saw it running the other week. He gave me the run down on everything, its very custom ahah.......he wouldnt name a price tho :(

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