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Post Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:47 pm 
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Yes I do realise it will be cold out there,
but the thermostat will be due for a change by then,
so I am just educating myself.
There is so many cracked G16's around,
I am just making sure i don't join them.
Never knew the hi flows existed,
and only info is from sellers so far,
we know we can trust that ;)

Vit will be getting a new fan hub soon, and Summer is coming.
I'm expecting no problems.
But knowledge is good.
Never ran warm at all in the sand dunes.

Only runs warmer in warmer weather, naturally

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:50 pm 
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PS. I get nervous since killing the Sierra in Little Desert,
which after much huntings turned out to be just a $2 welsh plug.

New Vit motor got all new ones fitted,
along with a new water pump etc.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:57 pm 
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Not sure a thermostat, or any amount of cooling, would have helped that.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Not sure a thermostat, or any amount of cooling, would have helped that.

Steve.

No, not at all.
Just wish I'd found it out before I went.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 4:03 am 
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I guess this is the best place to ask, the G16A I just put in my sierra seems to run between 60 and 70 degrees, which seems a bit to cool to me, thermostat has been replaced twice so it's not that. (82 degree stat)

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:28 am 
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zukmeista wrote:
I guess this is the best place to ask, the G16A I just put in my sierra seems to run between 60 and 70 degrees, which seems a bit to cool to me, thermostat has been replaced twice so it's not that. (82 degree stat)

Have you tried an 88*C thermostat? That would be my choice in a cold climate.
My import engine EFI G16A and my original G16B both had 92's when I got them.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:40 am 
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Yeah, I might try that. Just an idea I had, does anyone know whether all thermostats are rated the same, i.e. opening temp, or are they different, i.e. OEM at opening temp, aftermarket at fully open?

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:50 am 
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zukmeista wrote:
Yeah, I might try that. Just an idea I had, does anyone know whether all thermostats are rated the same, i.e. opening temp, or are they different, i.e. OEM at opening temp, aftermarket at fully open?


http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Produ ... 9&P=381955

That site lists a lot of technical data on thier range, that may help

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:53 am 
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They list 180's for carby Vitaras, which is 82,
. So it should run cooler than the efi

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:55 am 
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Well it looks like the temp is the opening temp, so it beats me how the engine can be running cooler than that :? Strange how the carby one has a cooler stat.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:07 am 
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zukmeista wrote:
Well it looks like the temp is the opening temp, so it beats me how the engine can be running cooler than that :? Strange how the carby one has a cooler stat.

I'm no expert, but I reckon an 88 should be fine if you live in a cold area all year.
But I'd get more accurate opinions off experts first.

I doubt any gauge is accurate anyway, you may be running fine.
My gauge reads less than 82 in cold weather

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:36 am 
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It must be, as I got it up to 100 on the gauge (aftermarket gauge BTW) and it wasn't boiling, so that would indicate it is reading right? (had to turn off fan and thrash it on a hillclimb for about 5mins to get it to that temp)

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:46 am 
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zukmeista wrote:
It must be, as I got it up to 100 on the gauge (aftermarket gauge BTW) and it wasn't boiling, so that would indicate it is reading right? (had to turn off fan and thrash it on a hillclimb for about 5mins to get it to that temp)

Sounds like it is all working very good.
Probably be the same with an 88.
Just warmer when colder if that makes sense :)

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 5:55 pm 
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I run the highflow thermostat in my g16b Sierra. Didn't notice any difference at all.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:05 pm 
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reeceh wrote:
I run the highflow thermostat in my g16b Sierra. Didn't notice any difference at all.

Possibly the water pump is the limitting factor,
it may already be at its max flow with a stock thermostat?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 12:58 am 
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christover1 wrote:
reeceh wrote:
I run the highflow thermostat in my g16b Sierra. Didn't notice any difference at all.

Possibly the water pump is the limitting factor,
it may already be at its max flow with a stock thermostat?

on this, any one know of someone who makes a higher flow pump? but then again, i agree with what Gwagensteve said about the ability to gain and shed the heat with a higher flow.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:45 am 
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I really think you are over thinking this too much.

Suzuki employed engineers who went to university and studied for for four years or more, then studied in specific fields of heat transfer/cooling/fluid dynamics etc etc for more years then designed systems and then tested them in many different scenarios and then did many years of real world testing and running through comparative data from all previous models and THEN your 15 year old car has been tested in many many countries and many different climates without a vehicle recall for cooling system problems and you think you can better it by changing a thermostat??

Speedway racers who race with methanol have to make custom thermostats to limit the flow through the engine cause the standard ones are too large and the engine doesn't reach a good operating temp. This is due to the type of fuel as a well. They make them with a hole the size of a 5 cent piece.

Your EFI engine is also designed to run at a certain temp and if it doesn't get to that temp the computer gets all shitty and tries to make it hotter anyway so if it runs too cool your fuel economy will be shit.

I can understand your concern but the block cracking is more to do with the expansion and contraction of the metal and not the coolant flow. Probably more to do with poor casting or a casting design flaw that make an area expand and contract more in one spot due to a different amount of metal to the rest of the block. Nothing you can do will ever fix this fault.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 8:11 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
It's difficult to work out what problem a high flow thermostat is fixing. Perhaps (just perhaps) if a larger radiator has been fitted there is a case for a higher flow thermostat. I can't see the reasoning for a high flow thermostat with a stock engine and cooling system.


Its designed to resolve the problem of having too much money.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 3:08 pm 
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mr suzuki spent millions researching and developing these fine little machines if everything is working how it should it will work fine why put all that gimmicy crap on it

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:37 pm 
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TZAR wrote:
I really think you are over thinking this too much.

Suzuki employed engineers who went to university and studied for for four years or more, then studied in specific fields of heat transfer/cooling/fluid dynamics etc etc for more years then designed systems and then tested them in many different scenarios and then did many years of real world testing and running through comparative data from all previous models and THEN your 15 year old car has been tested in many many countries and many different climates without a vehicle recall for cooling system problems and you think you can better it by changing a thermostat??

Speedway racers who race with methanol have to make custom thermostats to limit the flow through the engine cause the standard ones are too large and the engine doesn't reach a good operating temp. This is due to the type of fuel as a well. They make them with a hole the size of a 5 cent piece.

Your EFI engine is also designed to run at a certain temp and if it doesn't get to that temp the computer gets all shitty and tries to make it hotter anyway so if it runs too cool your fuel economy will be shit.

I can understand your concern but the block cracking is more to do with the expansion and contraction of the metal and not the coolant flow. Probably more to do with poor casting or a casting design flaw that make an area expand and contract more in one spot due to a different amount of metal to the rest of the block. Nothing you can do will ever fix this fault.


Armsup

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:43 pm 
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So in a nutshell, constant correct temperature is the aim.
Avoiding large changes in temp would be a good thing.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:28 pm 
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christover1 wrote:
So in a nutshell, constant correct temperature is the aim.
Avoiding large changes in temp would be a good thing.

thats why cars that are used to go from home to shops and back or 2 school, dont last as long as farm vehicles or taxis which are constantly running. makes sense


Last edited by shandy92 on Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:32 pm 
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yes, same reason some heavy vehicles, like buses, are rarely turned off

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