[kyzermattingley]

So after converting my auto Jimny to manual I was stuck will its low ratios and high revs on the freeway, wasn't really a problem with the original motor and I wasn't doing many highway k's, now with the new turbo 1.8 things are getting a little hot under the hood as the turbo is constantly spooling at 4200rpm @ 100kmh, the other problem is that getting the electric transfer working with my after market Ecu is proving a pain in the a$$

What I'll be doing then- 1st being replacing the thermostats with a 70deg high flow unit, 2nd changing to a bigger T28 turbo off a 200sx, and 3rd change to manual hubs and transfer and 4th want to change ratios, which is where this thread comes in.

My transfer (from behind the auto) is 1.3 to 1, as are all the manual 'stick' type transfers I could find at wreckers, but the late model electric transfers (from behind manuals) are 1 to 1 which would suit me perfect.

The idea was to change the gears from the late model electric transfer into the early model 2 case, leaving me with great gearing and manual stick type.

I had an old rusted solid stick type transfer laying behind the house so I cracked it open first and checked out how the look and work, then I cracked open the electric 1 - 1 ratio transfer. The main shafts are pretty similar though the gear clusters are pretty different, the selectors in the early boy are steel and the late transfers are ally, the selector shafts are in totally different spots to, also the chain the drives them is about a quarter wider again in the late model transfer.





If the gears where pulled out of the late model transfer and machined down they could probably be placed in the early model transfer but I wanted to keep the wider late model chain.

This photo shows the gear width difference (late model main shaft gear on left and early model input gear on right)



This shows the chain width difference




So if anyone has seen one of these late model electric transfers out you will have noticed a blank in the casting where a shifter could go



You can also see the breather that I tapped into the housing


So far I've drilled and tapped the holes, hole sawed and cleaned up the inside where the spring and pivot sit and dug a ditch round the outside where the selector boot will need to sit.



(the plate is loose in this photo, is why it's not lining up with the 3rd hole properly)




Need to drill, tap and place a small grub screw in this hole which looks to only be there to let water run out of the blanked off casting




Need to sort a few things yet
1- reassemble and see where the selector shaft is in regards to the new shifter hole
2- modify selector shaft
3- modify shifter
4- make 'indents' in the selector shaft and make a locking mech to lock into each gear
5- find a way to stop the shaft rotating as it moves forward and backwards

Kyzer

[zukenutter]

Wow! Now that's taking our conversation to a whole other level. Kudos for stepping out of the box yet again, love ya work.

[alien]

kyzermattingley wrote:

I knew it was electric, but an orange power point? lol

[kyzermattingley]

all done, just have to put the new modified and freshly painted shifter back in tonight and then test it out, worked fine on the bench, looking forward to my first drive

[zukenutter]

Well done, got pics?

[want33s]

Good stuff..I'm loving all this Jimny tech.. Not much new in the Sierra world. . I'll get a Jimny oneday and you guys will have ironed out all the dramas for me...

[OldBlindDog]

Electric T-Cases from the rigs with manual gearbox are 1:1Hi 1:2Lo. But electric T-Cases from autoboxes are 1:1.3Hi 1:2.6Lo.
If only I can combine 1:1Hi and 1:2.6Lo... 8(

I run 235/75/15 BFG MT for now with manual box and 1.3/2.6 T-Case. Done about 1000 km in recent two days. 4200 rpm are disgusting.

[kyzermattingley]

OldBlindDog wrote:

Electric T-Cases from the rigs with manual gearbox are 1:1Hi 1:2Lo. But electric T-Cases from autoboxes are 1:1.3Hi 1:2.6Lo.
If only I can combine 1:1Hi and 1:2.6Lo... 8(

I run 235/75/15 BFG MT for now with manual box and 1.3/2.6 T-Case. Done about 1000 km in recent two days. 4200 rpm are disgusting.

Yeah that's why I ditched my 1.3/2.6 t-case and built the 1.1/2.2 stick one, figured I do my highway work than offroad work, and the offroad work is mainly bush and beach work so didn't really need the super low low range.

The only difference between the two is the imput gear in the t-case, pulled them down and took a look.

[kyzermattingley]

Thought I should show what I've done



Making a notch for the shifter in the selector shaft.

As there is no place for the shifter to 'shift' the selector shaft one had to be made, in doing so I had to make room for the end of the shifter to locate in the selector rail, part of the body of one of the selector forks (in picture below) had to be notched to give room, this was directly below the shifter hole.






The selector shaft installed showing where it has been notched for the end of the shifter, you can also see the notched end of the selector fork.








This shows the shaft in the t-case in low range






I also had to replace a circlip on the selector shaft with a metal washer which I welded on, this washer pushes on the selector fork engage/disengage gears






Had to also notch the washer for where the circlip sits on the stationary shaft






Material had to be removed from the case here to allow the washer on the selector shaft to move






I also had to add detents (kinda indents or groves) to the selector shaft to help positively lock/notch it into each gear, this can kinda be seen in some of the photos, they are just three V shaped groves that a sping loaded ball bearing drops into, for the detent mechanism I used a 7/16 seat belt bolt internally drilled out to 8.5mm to take a sping and ball bearing, the spring and ball came out of an out transfer.






Had to cut the toothed part off of the selector shaft that the electric motor drove on to select gears, I used the alloy bolt-on housing that held the motor and cut out the part where the motor went and welded it back together, this covers the end of the selector shaft now. I also had to put a Roll pin in this side of the casing that sits against a flat on the selector shaft so that the shaft can not rotate as in moves in and out, didn't take a photo though, it's actually behind this bot on piece.






Finished and reassembled t-case with freshly made shifter. I put the selector shafts in the empty case and mounted the t-case to make the shifter.





Also found that one of my heavier duty transfer case mounts had torn, so I used an old trick I'd been taught which involved wrapping them in a seat belt, just melt a whole with a soldering iron where the studs will poke through, has to be really tightly done, works a treat on track car engine mounts. These mounts also spaced the transfer up about 15mm.

[monley]

You do some really awesome work mate.

P.S. What did you paint the t-case with? Looks cool

[zukenutter]

cool stuff

[alien]

love that seatbelt trick! thats so simple and clever!

[kyzermattingley]

monley wrote:

:o

P.S. What did you paint the t-case with? Looks cool

It was just a cold gal type silver, local steel shop sells it, typical fast drying hard wearing stuff