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Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 9:00 am
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:30 pm 
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I have had a 4AGZE engine for 18 months and a sierra with no engine for the same time
I have today started the process and I thought I would ask the question as to what hurdles I may encounter, I know the 4AGE conversions have been done a thousand times so hopefully someone can help me with any problems I may envounter.

First I have these questions-

Fuel-
do I need a surge tank?
what fuiel pump would I use?
would I be better off with a tank with an inbuilt pump/surge tank and if so what would replace my tank easily?

Radiator-
What radiator should I be using and what size thermo fan?

Exhaust-
The engine has some headers on it, I dont want something too noisy that attaracts unwanted attention, what size pipe should I use?

I think the rest of it is pretty straight forward, it came with a wiring harness and an aftermarket CPU.

Cheers
Richard

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:04 pm 
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I don't like external lift pump/surge tank/HP pump arrangements. I think an in tank pump is the best solution. EFI tanks have swirl pots built in.

The biggest radiator you can fit. I would try and avoid a thermo fan at all costs due to efficiency and flow problems with thermos, but if you can't run an engine fan, then investigate possible radiators based on thermo size. Some radiators are better suited to, say, 2 12" thermos than others by virtue of their proportions.

Dank runs a rear mounted XJ Cherokee radiator in his 4AGE 20V sierra and it seems to work well, and his car hasn't even caught alight, so it must be good.

Rear mounting the radiator is something I would consider if you can't run an engine mounted fan.

I'd run a 2.25" pipe and use a "triple flow" muffler and at least one hot dog, maybe two, to take the edge off That should keep it quiet. The catalytic converter this conversion will require also helps to keep the noise down. IMHO really noisy cars are a PITA so I am with you there. My own car wasn't even all that noisy and it bugged me.

Steve

PS what gearbox are you planning? I'd be looking for an auto to take some sting out of the torque delivery - that GZE is going to be murder on driveline if it's driven hardish off road.

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Location: Canberra

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:51 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
I don't like external lift pump/surge tank/HP pump arrangements. I think an in tank pump is the best solution. EFI tanks have swirl pots built in.

The biggest radiator you can fit. I would try and avoid a thermo fan at all costs due to efficiency and flow problems with thermos, but if you can't run an engine fan, then investigate possible radiators based on thermo size. Some radiators are better suited to, say, 2 12" thermos than others by virtue of their proportions.

Dank runs a rear mounted XJ Cherokee radiator in his 4AGE 20V sierra and it seems to work well, and his car hasn't even caught alight, so it must be good.

Rear mounting the radiator is something I would consider if you can't run an engine mounted fan.

I'd run a 2.25" pipe and use a "triple flow" muffler and at least one hot dog, maybe two, to take the edge off That should keep it quiet. The catalytic converter this conversion will require also helps to keep the noise down. IMHO really noisy cars are a PITA so I am with you there. My own car wasn't even all that noisy and it bugged me.

Steve

PS what gearbox are you planning? I'd be looking for an auto to take some sting out of the torque delivery - that GZE is going to be murder on driveline if it's driven hardish off road.


I would def go for the auto. My sierra with the 4agze was manual and it was hard to put the power down evenly. The power came on too hard and fast to be practical. I had alot of overheating problems using standard radiator and thermo. I still had problems when we put a bigger gemini radiator in.

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Location: mildura VIC

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:58 am 
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thanks for the replies.
The engine came out of a suzuki, the guy I purchased it from was a member of this board but I dont know his user ID.
It came with a manual gearbox, I got the shortened jack shaft with it so its all pretty straight forward aside from the radiator and fuel system.

Forgive my ignorance on the cat converter, but isnt that just for emissions etc - I wont be getting a mod plate so I was thinking of skipping this part.

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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 10:30 pm
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Location: Blue Mountains
Vehicle: SJ51T

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:25 am 
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oldcob wrote:
thanks for the replies.
The engine came out of a suzuki, the guy I purchased it from was a member of this board but I dont know his user ID.
It came with a manual gearbox, I got the shortened jack shaft with it so its all pretty straight forward aside from the radiator and fuel system.

Forgive my ignorance on the cat converter, but isnt that just for emissions etc - I wont be getting a mod plate so I was thinking of skipping this part.


Its there for a reason. Dont take it out.

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Vehicle: WR250F/Jeep XJ

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:49 am 
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I run 2.5 inch pipe with a straight through turbo muffler. It's too loud.. :D The guy that did my exhaust didn't put a cat in so i found out later on.

I'm going to put in a Cat at some stage. The EPA frown upon this very heavily and the fines are pretty big i've heard.

A swb EFI vitara tank will fit with room for an exhaust and give you arounf 55 litres of fuel. you have to make new mounts off the cross members but its easy.

I've been running the in tank vitara pump for a while and it only recently stopped working. They are good...but are a pain if they stop because it's not really a trail fix job and will ruin your day unless you cut a hole in the floor for an access hatch to it....I'm putting in a VL external pump sucking through the old pump...at some stage when I use some of the fuel i'll remove the tank and get to the pump and replace with some hose and keep the in tank assembly or might even replace the pump and keep the external VL as a backup. Sometimes I wish I had the manual just for the onroad response and fast dirt that we occasionally do...but the auto shines once off the main road...control and power...you can't beat it.

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Location: Canberra

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:22 pm 
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matty_wall wrote:
oldcob wrote:
thanks for the replies.
The engine came out of a suzuki, the guy I purchased it from was a member of this board but I dont know his user ID.
It came with a manual gearbox, I got the shortened jack shaft with it so its all pretty straight forward aside from the radiator and fuel system.

Forgive my ignorance on the cat converter, but isnt that just for emissions etc - I wont be getting a mod plate so I was thinking of skipping this part.


Its there for a reason. Dont take it out.


The cat is just for emissions. Your exhaust will flow better without one. There are hefty fines if they catch you without one though. (not very likey though) Grab an old commodore one and punch the guts out of it if your worried.

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Location: Blue Mountains
Vehicle: SJ51T

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:49 pm 
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canberramav wrote:
matty_wall wrote:
oldcob wrote:
thanks for the replies.
The engine came out of a suzuki, the guy I purchased it from was a member of this board but I dont know his user ID.
It came with a manual gearbox, I got the shortened jack shaft with it so its all pretty straight forward aside from the radiator and fuel system.

Forgive my ignorance on the cat converter, but isnt that just for emissions etc - I wont be getting a mod plate so I was thinking of skipping this part.


Its there for a reason. Dont take it out.


The cat is just for emissions. Your exhaust will flow better without one. There are hefty fines if they catch you without one though. (not very likey though) Grab an old commodore one and punch the guts out of it if your worried.



Yes because i want to breathe in the even more poisonous gases that will be emitted from his and other peoples cars that deliberately run no cat. its for the environment, I personally see no difference in not running a cat and littering.

Also i'd be interested to see the difference is power that could be created by running no cat. not saying you don't get more out of an engine, just curious if its worth it or not for the potential gain.

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Location: mildura VIC

Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:31 pm 
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for the guys that have done it, what clutch pedal do you use or how do you adapt your clutch pedal to suit the hydraulic clutch?

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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:30 pm
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Location: Hobart

Post Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:50 am 
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Have a squiz at my thread. drill hole in clutch pedal below the pivot so it will push and not pull. Bear in mind you need to throw of the pedal at that point to match the throw of your clutch master. And usually you have a brake booster in the way so the clutch master won't fit directly in . See my build thread for pics

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Post Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:59 am 
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thanks mate, great detail I am sure it will help me.

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