[JrZook]

I would have no doubt that the software engineers would have just tried to port the code over to the updated processor. In-efficient as it may be, I guess if it works it works!

Still diddley squat info out there on these 76C40's. I wonder if they were licensed to be made by Toshiba for Nippon Denso as 6801 replacement processors. I assume that the are directly pin comparable to the 6801.

With the AW is there any diagnostic code written to the SCI that you have come across?

[Rhinoman]

The AW spits out a continuous stream of data on the serial link at 9600baud. I haven't decoded it but it should be pretty simple, mainly just status flags and fault codes. The pinout seems to be 6801 compatible judging from the code that I've tried.
I've been putting together a summary of the features of the 76C175 but I still have a few of the higher registers to write up. I think I'll have to change that page so it covers all of the 76Cs that I've found so far:

http://www.rhinopower.org/ECUs/MH6XXX/MH6211.html

[4wheeljive]

It's been a while since I've been on auszookers but it looks like is been longer since an up date on the bike.... Any progress?

[JrZook]

Yea mate, not much to report as this stage. Still on holidays and gathering parts for the project. Will be back into it next month

[matt.scorgie]

this guy is a bloody genius good work mate still cant belive it

[JrZook]

Cheers mate! Still ages to go before I actually get it to run on the EFI and my ECU system. Project is not dead tho! Sent my barrels out to get bored from 49 to 52.5mm yesterday. Fingers crossed it works and doesn't crack the liners! Also receiving my intake this week from Pete

[4wheeljive]

Verry nice!!! keen to see The intake

[JrZook]

More mechanical work done.
Cylinders are back! Bores are done and not cracked woooooooooooo!!


Liners down to 1mm, pretty thin


52.5mm pistons, 1.6thou clearance


Slight difference with the stock 49mm piston


Deck height with 52.5mm piston, no base gasket yet thus piston will require slight machining to fit and match the squish band angle in the head


Stock piston deck height, no base gasket. Deck heights are pretty darn close! Minimal machining required!

[JrZook]

Have done a few more measurements and calcs:

These new pistons, rings, pins and clips weigh and extra 12.3g each than the stock ones. That an overall increase in top end mass of 12.5%. Ideally I would like to keep the stresses On the rod, bearings and crank as close to stock as I can. So I'm going to have to try and machine this weight off somehow.

For starters I'm looking to machine a dish in the crown to drop the CR from a calculated 11.3:1 back down to 10:1. Machine more meat off the piston near the ends of the gudgeon pins and clips and machine some off under the gudgeon pin bosses (minimal load side). Might see what I can do about trimming the skirts perpendicular to the rod throw also.

Should hopefully put these on a diet!

[atari4x4]

Good thinking with the weight reduction on the piston.

When Dad built my Kent engine up for the Mk1 Cortina he got a set of pistons from the UK that were for the Formula Ford's along with a heap of other cool bits. The difference in weight & where it had been taken off when comparing the stock piston & the "race cut" piston was amazing. Just looking at it you could see it was going to make a world of difference.

Then what was taken off the whole assembly after it was balanced was impressive, the whole lot from crankshaft pulley to the clutch pressure plate & everything in between got done... it had a lot of little holes everywhere taking small amounts off here & there to get it to spin up nicely. Somehow I ended up with slightly detuned Formula Ford race engine, that had every trick in the book thrown at it after he told Mum that my motor needed the valve stem seals doing & needed to be pulled out.

[JrZook]

Well I think it does make a lot of sense not to increase the top end weight and cut it back where you can without sacrificing strength. This engine is going to spin upto 10k, so the piston has to travel from stationary up 66mm, stop, then turn around and travel back down 66mm every 0.006 seconds! So the forces on the gudgeon pin, rod and crank pin due to the inertia from the weight of the piston are pretty extreme!

Another thing I have to deal with here is the balance factor since it is an offset v-twin and will never be able to have full balance through out the rev range as opposed to a nice inline engine. If I'm too far off it will try and rip itself to pieces

[JrZook]

Had another thought about injector placement. Was thinking about skimming a flat on the head above the intake port and appropriately drill a hole into the intake port to place the injectors. This way I will not need to fiddle around and make injector bosses in the intake manifold. I also would be able to get a much better injection angle so the spray is aimed right to the back of the valve! This will need a bit of milling work tho but I think it could become a pretty neat solution.

[PJ.zook]

I reckon its great how sorta dedicated you are to getting this project to work. I got that many projects on the go its not funny, all half finished.
Will be awesome when its done!

[JrZook]

Thanks P.J!! I'm determined to get this project finished and running! Not an easy task with minimal machinery and tooling equipment tho.

The V-twin doesnt leave too much space between the cylinders spayed at 60*.
I got hold of my old stock manifold for mock up sakes which is giving me a lot more insights into designing a manifold to suit an EFI setup in term of spacing.

So with the injector mounted in the cylinder head I do not have a lot of space anywhere!!


I measured the thickness of the head material which came to about 15mm so the injector would sit 15mm lower but still space is a premium and would have to remove the injectors to get at the valve covers... Just remember I have to fit a fuel feed rail in there somewhere too!


The original idea I had was to mount an injector on each side of the manifold.



This would give me heaps more room around everything but will be a prick to make up and get a descent injector spray angle towards the valves but I believe its doable.

I'm using my aluminium tubing as a template as they are easier to work with and already have the desired bend of 60*. Once I get something sorted I can move to 1-1/8" exhaust mild steel tube. This is how the injector would roughly sit and it's corresponding nozzle angle. The angle wont be ideal but will deffo be alot better than just mounting it perpendicular to the manifold.



If this all fails and becomes too hard my final option will be to just try a throttle body injection setup with a single injector firing every revolution to supply each cylinder.


This is the simplest form but least ideal injection strategy. Then again throttle body injection > carby

Any suggestions?
Dan

[PJ.zook]

So where are the Nitrous injectors going?

[JrZook]

Baby steps P.J! Once this ECU is completed it will have more than enough capability to control a N2O solenoid setup

Managed to get another hour of work in on this intake after uni today. Got stuck into my 1-1/8" 90* mandrel exhaust bends. Measured and cut the bends down to 60* and to the rough height the final design will be. It's actually starting to take shape and come together fairly nicely!! Made up some quick copper flanges to hold the bends and mock up the rest of the manifold


Now I just have to slice through each bend so the meet up where they are required and then the real challenge of matching a 2" collector to these 1-1/8" bends begins!!


Looking at how this is coming together I may end up with the room to mount the injectors to give a pretty descent injection spray angle into the port!


Dan

[JrZook]

Well spent another few hours on the manifold. Just trying to get a feel of how to make this complex thing. Cut the pipes at the wrong angle so at this stage its just a mock up to see how I can make the next one which I hope works out.

So this is what I ended up with. As you can see its sort of taking shape but its too rough and will end up ugly and flow just as bad as it looks so I'll be starting it again on the weekend with a few other tricks up my sleeve.


The hardest part besides cutting the tubes at the right angles is getting them to converge nicely into a 2 inch collector to match the TB. This is my attempt at metal bashing so far:



I have acquired a reducer made by expanding a piece of 1-5/8" tube to 2". Im hoping this will help the converging setup.

[JrZook]

Have still been chugging away at this bloody manifold. I'm upto MK3 now and fingers crossed I can actually get this one working and finished. Starting to get sick of failing on this small yet complex thing!

Anywoo picked up somemore mandrel bends and started again. Converted an electric wood drop saw I had laying around to fit a 9" metal cuttoff wheel which seemed to work and cut nice and straight. Once the tubes were cut I reincarnated the drop saw into a makeshift bench grinder and managed to converge the bends fairly closely.


Started to get all high-tech and grabbed a bog roll to mock up my plan of how to converge the 1-5/8" end of the reducer to the 1-1/8" intake runners to try and get a descent smooth transition. Hopefully this idea works!


Intake runners are still sitting a tad too high and will need to be cut down. Gotta love trying to work with confined spaces!!

[ball]

I should see if I can find the drawing I did about 10 years ago for a fuel injected throttle body set up for a 450 yamaha.

It was a prototype we did before there was much in the way of injected set ups for dirt bikes. It went quite well once it was sorted.

Will pm you tomorrow with some more info.

[JrZook]

Sweet as ball! Sounds interesting send me some info

[JrZook]

Upto MK4 now!

[JrZook]

Well looks like MK4 may be a winner!!

Made up some 5mm steel flanges and tacked the intake tubes in place. Figured out how to converge these tubes into the 2" collector. Used some cardboard and ended up with a mock up that is low profile and should have ok flow characteristics.


Used some of the 2" tube and made some steel fillers from the cardboard templates. Also sorted out some tube to mount the injectors in. Ended up with an injector angle of ~40*. Wanted to get a shallower angle but again had to compromise due to space constraints. Even though this angle will most likely result in some wall wetting the injection system will defiantly out perform the carb setup.


The 2" collector height will be cut down from 20mm to 10mm to get throttle body nearly as low as the stock manifold and carb setup.


Got pretty crafty with the tape to hold it all together but I just don't think it's structural and air tight enough to work . Just have to drill the injector ports in the intakes and then it's time to metal glue it all up!!

[skyman]

Any progress here? Way cool build.

[Fatzook]

skyman wrote:

Any progress here? Way cool build.

Yeah. The above manifold is almost done. Just some finishing touches with the TIG.

[zukenutter]

Wow this build is so cool, I don't understand most of it but still. One the less cool.
I was pretty disappointed when I got to the last post. Can't wait for the next installment.

[monty]

nice dude have you considered running your throttle body horizontally on the other side of the engine and utilizing the pipework by sticking an intercooler in between.

[JrZook]

Fatzook wrote:

skyman wrote:

Any progress here? Way cool build.

Yeah. The above manifold is almost done. Just some finishing touches with the TIG.

PICS!!

Once the manifold is complete I will be sorting out the fueling setup and then finalizing my circuit and PCB design. While this is going on I shall start collecting the bits and pieces for the turbo manifold

monty wrote:

nice dude have you considered running your throttle body horizontally on the other side of the engine and utilizing the pipework by sticking an intercooler in between.

Hey mate! I have considered this previously but space constraints really kill it! Also with the horizontal manifold I would need really sharp 90* bends as opposed to the 60* that I require on the downdraft manifold setup. Another bonus with this setup is that it will tuck away where the carb used to be. So besides the injectors hanging out, stealth injection

[31zook]

I'm with zukenutter, I understand very little but enjoy this thread allot

[4wheeljive]

I like to think I understand but im still no where near the understanding of the logistic of making a kit like this

[JrZook]

Thanks a heap for the comments guys!!

This is a very intensive project but I'm determined to see it though! The amount of knowledge I've gained over my undergraduate degree from researching this stuff in depth and chatting to the smarts like Rhinoman has been pretty phenomenal. I hope to be working in this field some day.

The next EFI hardware hurdle I'm trying to sort out is this. The HP fuel pump!

As shown earlier this unit comes out of an in-tank module and is capable of 50L/hr and 294kPa whilst only drawing a max of 2.4A.

The way my tank is shaped makes it virtually impossible to mount the unit internally hence I will have to try and convert it to external use. To do this I'm thinking of enclosing the inlet (RH side) with either a snugly fitting plastic fuel filter housing cut in half or a copper pipe cap with ports brazed on. This should help aid fuel delivery as it will act as a small fuel reservoir!