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Post Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 4:51 am 
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So I decided before the big trip next week to replace the timing belt in the old vitara, not knowing how old it was I thought best do it now instead of 500kms away on the side of the road.
Anyway before we start Im a much better chef than mechanic, so feel free to add corrections to any thing I got wrong ........(Jester assisted me with fitting the belt - much appreciated as I have never done anything like this before)

Now before I started I made sure I had a few things -
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10,11,12 and 13 mm ring and openend spanners
8,9,10,11,12,13 and 17mm sockets and ratchet both small and big
8mm allen key, and 8mm allen socket
Razor blades
Gasket maker
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ICE COFFEE (Optional - but I started it at 730am)
Rags for cleaning
Big flat screwdriver
Coolant
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Timing Belt -New
Water pump and Gasket - New
Radiator hoses and Clamps - New

Swear Jar and a ashtray.


Started of by opening the bonnet
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Then I removed the clutch fan, pulley and belt 10 and 12mm spanner was used
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After I had the fan out I took the radiator and shroud out - Various bolts and sizes, seems the previous mechanic just used what ever was on hand.
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Once the radiator and belts and pulley were out, I undid the timing belt cover - thinking I could take it straight off, didn't realize the the bottom pulley needed to be removed, after a half hour of screwing around I found the allen key headed bolts inside the bottom pulley, undid the 5 8mm allen bolts and took bottom pulley off
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The timing belt cover basically fell off once the bottom pulley was removed, timing cover had about 8 or so 10mm bolts holding it on
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Once the cover was off, I was confronted with this..........
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I located the notch on the top gear(Cam gear - Jester told me when he arrived)
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and marked it with some blue texta - made sure it lined up with the notch in the top of the timing cover backing plate, and I marked that with texta too......

( I was using a large socket set with a 17mm socket on the crank bolt to turn the motor over......did not bother removing spark plugs or disconnecting battery, but did remove lead from coil to distributor)

After lining up the top I checked to see if the bottom crank gear had lined up - I used the key thing and the pointy bit as a mark, I marked it with texta too....... Again when Jester arrived he showed me the little divot in the crank gear that is supposed to line up with the point on the block. I luckily had managed to line up the right spot.

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After it was all lined up Jester informed me that it was time to remove the tension-er and little spring that holds it in place.
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the timing belt slipped off and Jester had a look at it, seems as it did need replacing , probably lucky that I did it this weekend
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I then unbolted the water pump, cleaned the block with a razor blade and chux cloth, got it nice and clean.
Put the gasket on the new water pump, with gasket maker both sides of the gasket, Bolted the shinny new water pump onto the block
Image


Once the water pump was on put the tension-er back in place, using the old spring - Slipped the NEW belt back on making sure that the side opposite to the tension-er was tight
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Took my large socket spanner and 17mm socket and turnt the motor over twice to make sure both previously marked spots lined up.
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Once we were happy that everything lined up, did the tension-er up tight and double checked the water pump was tight, rechecked all the other bolts under the timing cover to ensure they were done up enough.


then I started the Put it back together process - Pull it apart process in revers basically

Timing belt cover and water pump pulley back on fan on , crank pulleys on
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Just as a Third check - reconnected the distributor and coil turn the key to see if the motor would fire - started straight away.

So I celebrated the success with a SMOKE.........


Put new alternator and compressor belt back on, slipped fan shroud over the fan and installed radiator.
Reconnected the cooling hoses.
filled the radiator with coolant and it ran smoothly when I fired it up.

When the engine was warm topped up with coolant again let idle for 20 minutes to get hot - checked for leaks.

Had some more ICE COFFEE
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Went for a drive round the block . just to check it was all good..........


Came home and cleaned up..



























Job done. Tools away.............


Hopefully this will help someone else out replacing a timming belt, I was a bit hesitant to do it as I thought it would be to hard but with a bit of guidance from a fellow AUSZOOKER ....... Jester .. It turned out to be an easy job..........

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 5:01 am 
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:goodtech:

what did the inside of the old water pump look like & the radiator looks a bit ratty.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 5:17 am 
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looks good mate, glad you said "used a razer to clean the gasket surface" i didnt once, turned a 4hr job into an 11hr job!

how long did it take you?

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 5:37 am 
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Radiator should last till after Beachport hopefully! Water pump looked like it has seen better days, JESTER said it was or looked like the Original one!!! so probably not to bad for a 22yr old pump

I would say it took 2 hours, there was a fair bit of chatting and standing round, plus a bit of lookin at this and that, all up it took 3.5 hours but that was me dicking round....as well waiting for Jester, going to the shop for Ice coffee.........
If I did it again I would say 1.5hours

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 6:01 am 
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hopefully. :wink:

dune driving will test any cooling system & Beachport makes Goolwa beach look like Jetty Rd.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:50 am 
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This guide helped me a lot. Not much difference between g16a and g16b.
A few little differences but nothing dramatic.

Thanks for the write up

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:28 pm 
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swifty_ano wrote:
This guide helped me a lot. Not much difference between g16a and g16b.
A few little differences but nothing dramatic.

Thanks for the write up


Armsup Told ya you could do it!!!!! :P

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:52 pm 
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well done. :goodjob:

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:37 pm 
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im under the impression that the tensioner pulley spring may not be needed.
as the pulley gets tightened and the spring does nothing.
just had mine go for a wonder causing the belt to skip a few teeth.
this link may help some people.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ley+spring.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:58 pm 
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Did you do the timing belt tensioner bearing, cam seal and front crank seal while you were at it?

Wish you had done this 6 months ago and I would have been confident enough to try mine! :)

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 12:51 am 
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Thanks for taking the time to document this.

I thought it was ironic that the only good photos you took were of your iced coffee :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:02 am 
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Potia - replaced the whole timing belt tension-er bearing / roller thing it came in the kit... Did not do the seals as I was thinking of only having the current engine in till it dies.......then going for a rebuild or upgrade...


Damo... with greasy hands its hard to take photos...Never did say I was a photo pro...........But the ice coffee deserves a decent shot!

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:20 am 
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That was a great post.as i am going to do this after xmas to mine cheers for that info

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 8:02 pm 
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Great post ,given me the confidence to try & do my G16B

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:01 pm 
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Hey just thought i would add a bit of info that those with G16B engines will want to know. There are 2 marks on the Cam gear (top one) one labeled "E" the either "I" Both look the same otherwise. You MUST put the one labeled "E" at 12 o-clock with the crank gear lined up with its mark at 12 o'clock. I also noticed a mark on the pulley attached to the crank gear which lined up with the mark on the crank gear. Hope this helps.

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