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Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:30 pm
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Vehicle: LPG 1.6 Sierra

Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 2:34 pm 
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My 1.3 eats more oil than a fat girls face, but still goes alright... for now. That said, it kinda defeats the purpose of running LPG if i'm spending $5 of oil every 100k's to keep everybody happy, so it's time to weigh up my options.


Gotta sort an engine swap pretty soon, a 1.3 is the easiest option, but want to know the pro's and con's of switching to a carby 1.6 8v. Can you guys list why I should or shouldn't convert?

If I have to switch out a whole bunch of stuff it'll probably put me off... although a bit under powered it still goes alright. A little more oomph would be good, but it's not essential. I need an idea of total costs of converting too if anyone can help.

At most my future plans will be to swap to 235 tyres, a larger LPG tank and simple but more substantial front and rear bars. I plan to build my car as a remote explorer moreso than a hardcore 4x4 like most zook owners, so I want to build a machine to suit.


Advise me wise men and women of Auszookers, what should I do?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 3:41 pm 
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go the 1.6 most of it a all the same if you get bent adapter kit youl be laughing.
im doin exactly that just now and if my engine mount wasn't bust I could of dun it in the day. this is first engine conversion iv done and im finding it a breeze

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 7:54 pm 
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So what is it worth to do the conversion?

Price for carby 1.6 and or price for Efi 1.6?

Adapter kit is $200 odd isn't it?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 8:57 pm 
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Since you are LPG you have two really good choices. You can do the 1.6 8valve, and run a little better timing to make up for the power loss. The do not make high compression pistons for the 1.6 8 valve.

This swap will be easy for you because the upper head is almost exactly the same. The intake and exhaust bolt patterns are the same, so your LPG will bolt right up. Your exhaust will bolt right up too. So all you would really need is an adapter plate and motor mounts. No extra wires needed.


The second option if you are going to keep the 1.3 is to add some 10:1 compression pistons, and a nice torque cam. The 10:1 pistons usually require 98 octane, or premium pump gas. Because you are running LPG, you won't have those types of problems, you can run the HC pistons all day long with no issues.

If you don;t want to fiddle with a conversion rebuild the 1.3 with
.40 over flat top 10:1 pistons.
Cam to suit your driving style.

And enjoy the newfound power, if you look at zukiengines.com you can build a 1.3 to 110 HP which should be plenty for what you need.

Maybe even give him (Zack) a call. I think he would be happy to help build you a nice 1.3 even though you won't be buying one from overseas. Either way he will at least help you weight the 1.3 - 1.6 options.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:08 pm 
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1.6EFI FTW. Nuff said. 8)

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:38 pm 
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che_guitarra wrote:
I plan to build my car as a remote explorer moreso than a hardcore 4x4 like most zook owners, so I want to build a machine to suit.


Landcruiser Diesel :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:54 pm 
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What's a 1.6 EFI worth to do yourself?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:30 pm 
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i would rather a built 1.3 than an 8v 1.6 they arnt much of an improvement over the 8v 1.3. A high compression rebuild kit and having the intake side of things well tuned will have you sitting on 110 with 31" tyres

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:30 pm 
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Cost wise it'll probably only cost you about $1200 to do it yourself that's what it cost me to put the 1.6 16v in to my drover including all the bits to do the install but saying that now that I've done the engine swap I wish I'd paid $1600 and gotten someone else to do it. Because as I was doing the conversion I started replacing parts that looked shagged or worn and am just about to finish it now!!! I started 18 months ago!!!!! But I would go for the 1.6 for sure the power increase is unbelievable you will not be disappointed!!!! Hope this helps.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:35 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
What's a 1.6 EFI worth to do yourself?


Rough estimate:

Engine & ECU $1000
BenT kit $200
engine mounts $50
Optima battery $300
Coily tank $300
EFI pump $50
EFI lines & filter $100

That's 2K. Add on a bit more for new clutch / machining of flywheel.
New oil, radiator / heater hoses, coolant and lots of electrical tape.

I didn't keep receipts for everything, but I reckon it cost me about $2500 in the end. It's the little things you don't think of that all add up :wink:

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:39 pm 
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the difference between 1.3 8v and 1.6 8v for me was the same difference all over again when then went 1.6 EFI.

go 1.6 EFI for sure.

When you get into perth you can take mine for a spin if you want (although mines get reduction gears) but itll give you an idea.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:39 pm 
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I agree with skyman, you are in a bit of a unique situation with lpg that its worth looking at rebuilding your 1.3 with some extras more suited to the fuel, bit more compression, cam etc

youve got a fresh engine that will drive like a bigger one, vs fitting an engine thats going to be pretty old to begin with

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:21 pm 
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I'm definitely sticking with LPG, apart from a clogged cat conv (my fault, went the cheap option, not the 'right' option) it's been a godsend.

If I trick up a 1.3 and start toying with compression will that have a great impact on motor lifespan, or not enough to worry about?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:24 pm 
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nah a little bit here and there wont worry it at all, might even last longer cause you arent pushing it as hard to get around

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:18 am 
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before you go ahead with anything check to see what is causing the oil problem, if it is only rings and the bores are not too worn a hone and a new set of rings might give you some time to look around.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:35 am 
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Is the difference between a standard 1.3 carb and a high comp piston, torque cam 1.3 carb enough to warrant the coin?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:39 am 
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mightymouse wrote:
before you go ahead with anything check to see what is causing the oil problem, if it is only rings and the bores are not too worn a hone and a new set of rings might give you some time to look around.


If he is paying workshop rates and not doing it himself, then doing a full rebuild. Or finding another second hand motor to reco and drop in wont be too much more expensive, rather than paying for two lots of rings, two headgaskets. two rounds of oil coolant etc. two lots of labour.

What ever you do che. Don't get a GM reco or any mass produced reco motor, few horror story's about ;)

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:43 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
Is the difference between a standard 1.3 carb and a high comp piston, torque cam 1.3 carb enough to warrant the coin?


a cam and jets in a 1.3 drive like a 1.6 I reckon

add his gas setup you are jsut making the motor more suited to it, I reckon it would be worth every cent

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:57 am 
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You wouldn't do high comp pistons?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:11 am 
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I was referring to jsut cam and proper mixtures being a huge improvement, let alone more compression

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:20 am 
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Ah okay. That's the route I think I'll take being on my p's and all.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 2:00 am 
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mightymouse wrote:
before you go ahead with anything check to see what is causing the oil problem, if it is only rings and the bores are not too worn a hone and a new set of rings might give you some time to look around.


Engine is well enough to get me around for now, just an oil pig. Problem is I need to suss out what killed my cat converter - the LPG or the amount of oil passing through it. Seems there's no such thing as LPG specific converters, I thought that was where I went wrong.

Just been on the mission to sort out my CC issue... was hoping to bypass but if caught the fine is $40,000 for me and a 1/4 mil for the exhaust business that does it, 4 shops visited, all saying the same thing. No one will do the shortcut.

A hi flow cat is $400 installed, this one has done 7000kms and now fucked. My stock exhaust did 20K on LPG before I replaced it.


Anyone know cat converters well enough to advise me here? Gotta sort this ASAP so I can get mobile and go job hunting.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 2:05 am 
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does the insides of the cat look sooted up?

just get one off an old commodore or something and get it welded in at a welding place (not exhaust shop), cost stuff all

or tell em you dont need a cat cause its qld rego and on gas, how will they know :)

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 2:13 am 
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^^^ I did that (QLD rego thing), but apparently ALL cars must have a cat converter in WA, regardless of your state's rego. No car is exempt from the rule.

I like the wreckers idea, will definitely do that. Will a muffler shop not weld in a 2nd hand cat - or you warning me they charge big $$$ for it?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 2:21 am 
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they should weld it in but I think youll pay more for it

wreckers might even weld it in, but yeah does the old one look bad? if you can see through it the blockage might be further back

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:05 am 
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What type of work are you looking for?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:50 am 
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OK, just got good info off my dad's mechanic mate and am now getting a 100% steel hi flow cat converter and flange plates so I can have a two piece exhaust - cost $390 installed.

Apparently the LPG is a little too hot for ceramic/plastic internals of a standard cat, combined with extractors and bumbling around Oz at max speed for 6500kms was too much for the other part. Most cars have the ceramic type cat, so going to a wreckers to source a part will be hit and miss. I'll do it right or i'll be fixing it again too soon.



Moph - the bigger picture is to have my own business up and running within 18 months, audio production and general media editing. But this is something I can always pursue around another job. Creative work or communication heavy roles are what i'd prefer, anything that'll help me move up in the world... but if it pays well, is reasonably enjoyable, and requires a few brain cells i'll be posting in my resume, work hard and keep 'em happy.

I don't really care what I do, as long as i'm not working with a bunch of dudes that finger their sisters on weekends or working for bosses that keep their staff in a constant state of misery. For once in my life I want to enjoy my day job.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:09 am 
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generally lpg cars run alot better with higher compression than you would want to run in a petrol car ie 13:1 for lpg. Beacuse you run your car on lpg do you really need a cat, i thought they burnt alot cleaner ?
I have never heard of anyone in w.a. being fined for not running a cat

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:16 am 
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che_guitarra wrote:
but apparently ALL cars must have a cat converter in WA, regardless of your state's rego. No car is exempt from the rule.


Who's gonna know? knock the internals out of the cat and leave the hollow shell, save yourself some cash!

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:22 am 
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Haha if it was me i would keep the standard cc and just pull it off, punch the guts out of it with a stick or somthing then empty the crap out and slap it back under the zook. Still looks like u have a cc :D

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