[want33s]

The screws Suzuki use to hold the door hinges etc to the car look like they are easy to remove but can be damn stubborn.
I have tried several methods to remove them and spent a few $$ on impact driver bits that just shatter..Impact driver can also dent panels, not that the average Zook owner cares about a small dent but there are still a few nice shiny ones out there.

STEP 1:
You will need: Hammer, Coldchisel, Large phillips head screwdriver.


Step 2:
Place the coldchisel on the edge of the screw like shown below. Strike with hammer hard enough to put a notch in the screw.


STEP 3:
Keeping the tip of the chisel in the notch, lay it over a bit as shown. Undo is anti-clockwise so always lay it to the right when looking at the screw head.


STEP 4:
Strike again with hammer and screw will begin to rotate.


STEP 5:
Remove screw with screwdriver.




Always use Coppertec or NevaSieze or similar when reinstalling these screws and removing them in future will only require a screwdriver.
Ideally they are best replaced with stainless button head capscrews.

[shep]

[Scrawny]

Good write up Jas

[Rockhopper]

I need to pull mine out soon as the paint is coming off them and it looks a little shabby. Anyone know where I can get some anodised button head cap screws from??

[want33s]

Anodised steel will rust quicker than painted.
Get some Stainless Steel button head capscrews. M8 X 1.25 They aren't cheap like mild steel but look better and last forever.

[steak_knife]

Nice one!! how long do you need to leave the chisel in the fridge for??

[want33s]

steknig wrote:

Nice one!! how long do you need to leave the chisel in the fridge for??

HUH? Oh I get it "Cold" chisel..... Funny bastard.

[Rockhopper]

want33s wrote:

Anodised steel will rust quicker than painted.
Get some Stainless Steel button head capscrews. M8 X 1.25 They aren't cheap like mild steel but look better and last forever.

Did'nt think anodised would react with the other metal

[want33s]

Rockhopper wrote:

Did'nt think anodised would react with the other metal

Anodised screws won't 'react' with other metal but the anodised screws bolts etc you can buy are pretty poor anodising.. It looks great all shiny gold but will be rusty in 12-24 months, sooner if you do much beach work.
Stainless on the other hand, you can leave to your grandchildren.

[Ridge]

you can also drill through the centre of the bolt and use an easy-out.

[steak_knife]

Ridge wrote:

you can also drill through the centre of the bolt and use an easy-out.

It probably took longer to pose for the photo`s than it take`s to do this way, apart from a impact driver (which dosen`t always work) it`s the quickest way.

[eldo]

i sell nuts and bolts for a living and i was thinking of doing up a kit and was wondering if anyone was interested in a body bolt kit to suit their zook, out of stainless of course

[peeeete]

how much you charging eldo? im missing bout three screws just on the doors...

[jimbo_jones]

eldo wrote:

i sell nuts and bolts for a living and i was thinking of doing up a kit and was wondering if anyone was interested in a body bolt kit to suit their zook, out of stainless of course

you can do a test kit and try it on my zook

[S13RR4]

[quote="want33s"]

nice rust hole ... hahah mines not much better , will be after summer though

[eldo]

peeeete wrote:

how much you charging eldo? im missing bout three screws just on the doors...

i dont know yet, as i have a long wheel base im assuming i would have different numbers of bolts etc in mine. if you can give me the number, thread pitch etc i can get them easy enough. i think they are all 8mm 1.25pitch, i could be wrong but.
i was going to do a lwb,swb and tin top kit, it just depends if there is enough interest as they are stainless and its not cheap stuff to buy..

[Scrawny]

Maybe not a whole body bolt kit but just doors or targa bar etc. I'd imagine a whole body kit would cost a small fortune and we're all tight arses here

[MART]

I bought all my stainless bolts from parramatta , they were cheaper to buy as a box of 100 than to buy individually , as you pay a different rate for individual ammounts , I think 30 of the m8 x 20 where the same price as the box , you guys could split a box in areas where you are close , Cheers Paul.

[matty87]

good idea ther guys. i had to get the doors off a little 20 year old sierra did something similar but insted used philips head fitting for a half inch breaker bar and belted it in till it stayed then attached the breaker bar and that worked but they were stuck nice and tight.

am gonna use internal hex head screws to replace the screws should solve the problem happening again.

What is it with suzuki and screws did they have a sister company that made screws or something coz there are shit loads of them on the sierras.

[Brett]

i'd rather it screwed than glued together

[foonji]

I wouldn't mind new screws for my zook. would be interested in suitable kit.

[shakes]

good tech!

[PJ.zook]

Yeh nice little bit of info, it does work well. For the really tough ones, you can also weld an old bolt to the head of the screw and it will come straight out.

[Fatzook]

I've tried this before with varied levels os success.

Worst was when I had to continually hit the 'Notch' so many time the head of the bolt split in 2 and left the half head and thread there

And just be careful with stainless bolts. They are not graded the same way as steel bolts, so you have to pay attention to what you are replacing. Door bolts are fine, but body mount bolts, or suspension bolts etc should remain G8 mild steel.

[mnemonix]

eldo wrote:

i sell nuts and bolts for a living and i was thinking of doing up a kit and was wondering if anyone was interested in a body bolt kit to suit their zook, out of stainless of course

I'd be all over a set. I've got so many crappy looking rusted/corroded bolts & panel screws in my maruti, it really leaves a cheap finish on all the work i've been doing.

Staino bolts would be tops. Don't be shy about whacking a kit together.

[sierrajim]

You need one of these. Hold it on the screw, hit it with a hammer and presto, its loose.

The main shaft spins when hit.

[buzbox]

sierrajim wrote:

hit it with a hammer and presto, its loose.

Or snaps the head off.

[2stroker]

sierrajim wrote:

You need one of these. Hold it on the screw, hit it with a hammer and presto, its loose.

The main shaft spins when hit.

I have in the past used the head off an impact driver like this one on my rattle gun, that works a treat as well.

[Crunched]

I do it quite differently - angle grinder with a cutting disc, cut 2 sides off the bolt head to make it square(ish). Use a spanner to undo it. Replace the bolt when refitting.

[want33s]

sierrajim wrote:

You need one of these. Hold it on the screw, hit it with a hammer and presto, its loose.

The main shaft spins when hit.

Also an excellent way to dent the cowl panel.