[atari4x4]

hzcoupe, check out shane's build up he's just recently done a spring over on his SWB sierra... pretty sure most of his gear came from LowRangeOffRoad.com in the US.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... sc&start=0

[shane1992]

atari4x4 wrote:

hzcoupe, check out shane's build up he's just recently done a spring over on his SWB sierra... pretty sure most of his gear came from LowRangeOffRoad.com in the US.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... sc&start=0

[atari4x4]

Shane, can you shed any light on what's involved in doing the spring over....

[shane1992]

atari4x4 wrote:

Shane, can you shed any light on what's involved in doing the spring over....

Well apart from all the parts, you obviously need to know how to weld or have someone available for that.

I got all my gear from lowrangeoffroad

The kit
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... e-kit.html

I really like the kit I choose, the new perches self align onto the old perches and make it easy to get it square. All the break lines, tailshaft spacers, shocks etc are included in the kit.


highsteer kit
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... r-kit.html

This the highsteer kit I used, It's really heavy duty, and easy as to install.


Do I like having a spoa Sierra? Yes I am happy with it. It IS STABLE (from the weight and width of the tyres) It flexes very good.

Im having problems with sagging leafs etc and axle wrap at the moment. So in the near future I'll have to invest in a track bar to stop that.


Is alot of hard work, but it can be done easily over a weekend with all the parts reay to go.

Shane

[lumpy_zook]

just to clarify things a little mate, did you need to run the high steer kit? or can spoa be done with stock steering?

your still using stock springs in stock places (no ruf) and stock shackles to get the lift you have in your build thread?

have you had it on some big hills to see how stable it is from tipping backwards?

how do u find the 31"s with stock gearing?

keen on spoa on my zook and 31's.

[TryHard]

atari4x4 wrote:

hzcoupe, check out shane's build up he's just recently done a spring over on his SWB sierra... pretty sure most of his gear came from LowRangeOffRoad.com in the US.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... sc&start=0

all of his gear is

[TryHard]

lumpy_zook wrote:

just to clarify things a little mate, did you need to run the high steer kit? or can spoa be done with stock steering?

your still using stock springs in stock places (no ruf) and stock shackles to get the lift you have in your build thread?

have you had it on some big hills to see how stable it is from tipping backwards?

how do u find the 31"s with stock gearing?

keen on spoa on my zook and 31's.

u can run spoa with stock sterring but theres a few probs with it ... shane can tell u them haha .. but one of the problems is ur steering will hit stuff before ur front diff does resulting in bent steering arms etc stock gearing sucks with 31s i found and if ur doing spoa why run 31s ? u can run 31s with a simple 2 inch lift . as for stable wise like he said he his alot wider but he is also taller .. as for back flips no he has not done one yet but he is runing stock gearing and no lockers ....spoa is not road legal .. i will be soon runing same kit as shane is running and sametyres .. but like shane said its quite invloved to get it right

[lumpy_zook]

i just like the idea of spoa, i think for rock crawling and flex it would have more clearance than spring under, i can see what you mean about the steering now..

im just unsure of what i want to do when it comes to suspension lift.. its all new concept to me, but spring over makes sence to me.

welding and fab doesnt bother me.. its not pretty but i can do it..

[ajsr]

lumpy_zook wrote:

just to clarify things a little mate, did you need to run the high steer kit? or can spoa be done with stock steering?

your still using stock springs in stock places (no ruf) and stock shackles to get the lift you have in your build thread?

have you had it on some big hills to see how stable it is from tipping backwards?

how do u find the 31"s with stock gearing?

keen on spoa on my zook and 31's.

spoa without high steer is a shit idea, and IMO dangerous
it cause bump steer and shit wants to bind up.
and z links are for potential road accidents.

if your that tight for $ pm me I think I still have all the bits of a high steer i used a few year back

[Gwagensteve]

shane1992 wrote:

Im having problems with sagging leafs etc and axle wrap at the moment. So in the near future I'll have to invest in a track bar to stop that.

Get back to us on this in 6 months. SPOA needs more spring rate than SPUA. It's a constant battle for SPOA owners and many owners never resolve it.

Alien has a very well sorted SPOA setup, but you'll note he runs hilux springs. This is not an accident. They're wider so they are more resistant to wrap, and he still runs a set of oztrac/caltrac traction bars.

SPOA is cheap and easy to do badly and expensive and complex to do well.

Steve.

[LAY80N]

Gwagensteve wrote:

shane1992 wrote:

Im having problems with sagging leafs etc and axle wrap at the moment. So in the near future I'll have to invest in a track bar to stop that.

Get back to us on this in 6 months. SPOA needs more spring rate than SPUA. It's a constant battle for SPOA owners and many owners never resolve it.

Alien has a very well sorted SPOA setup, but you'll note he runs hilux springs. This is not an accident. They're wider so they are more resistant to wrap, and he still runs a set of oztrac/caltrac traction bars.

SPOA is cheap and easy to do badly and expensive and complex to do well.

Steve.

+214352845

My rig is SPOA, and has been for many years. I agree with Steve, if done properly it can work great. But if not done properly is is a total shitfight.


Layto....

[TryHard]

Gwagensteve wrote:

shane1992 wrote:

Im having problems with sagging leafs etc and axle wrap at the moment. So in the near future I'll have to invest in a track bar to stop that.

Get back to us on this in 6 months. SPOA needs more spring rate than SPUA. It's a constant battle for SPOA owners and many owners never resolve it.

Alien has a very well sorted SPOA setup, but you'll note he runs hilux springs. This is not an accident. They're wider so they are more resistant to wrap, and he still runs a set of oztrac/caltrac traction bars.

SPOA is cheap and easy to do badly and expensive and complex to do well.

Steve.

iv herd running yj or hiluxs springs can resulve this ?
that was my plan
idealy i would want coiloversbut i need to do more reseach into it

[Gwagensteve]

Did you even read my post?

Quote:

Alien has a very well sorted SPOA setup, but you'll note he runs hilux springs. This is not an accident. They're wider so they are more resistant to wrap, and he still runs a set of oztrac/caltrac traction bars.

- Yes, Hilux, or YJ springs can resolve the wrap problem, but then all spring hangers, shackles, spring pads and spring plates have to be changed/fabricated. Notice that Alien started with a bare chassis to start his hilux swap.

SPOA is more work than it looks, and then more work than it looked to work the bugs out. and then you run the risk of taking your SPOA car out on a trip and getting spanked by a SPUA car.

Steve.

[TryHard]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Did you even read my post?

Quote:

Alien has a very well sorted SPOA setup, but you'll note he runs hilux springs. This is not an accident. They're wider so they are more resistant to wrap, and he still runs a set of oztrac/caltrac traction bars.

- Yes, Hilux, or YJ springs can resolve the wrap problem, but then all spring hangers, shackles, spring pads and spring plates have to be changed/fabricated. Notice that Alien started with a bare chassis to start his hilux swap.

SPOA is more work than it looks, and then more work than it looked to work the bugs out. and then you run the risk of taking your SPOA car out on a trip and getting spanked by a SPUA car.

Steve.

yes i realise this one this with cars no good set up is a easy job to do ..

[TryHard]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Did you even read my post?

Quote:

Alien has a very well sorted SPOA setup, but you'll note he runs hilux springs. This is not an accident. They're wider so they are more resistant to wrap, and he still runs a set of oztrac/caltrac traction bars.

- Yes, Hilux, or YJ springs can resolve the wrap problem, but then all spring hangers, shackles, spring pads and spring plates have to be changed/fabricated. Notice that Alien started with a bare chassis to start his hilux swap.

SPOA is more work than it looks, and then more work than it looked to work the bugs out. and then you run the risk of taking your SPOA car out on a trip and getting spanked by a SPUA car.

hey steve iv seen u can buy a kit from low range with minimal fabing required and u could even run hliluxs springs with it .. it was mentioned earlyer

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -kits.html

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -kits.html

Steve.

[kenn]

Spring over With 33's , high steer,

a torque rod




and no problems flexing.
Totaly agree ,DO IT WRIGHT OR DONT DO IT.

[alien]

Gwagensteve wrote:

- Yes, Hilux, or YJ springs can resolve the wrap problem

for hilux or yj to resolve the wrap problem you need to run the full leaf pack - which DOES NOT WORK under the weight of a sierra... it rides like a go kart and lifts wheels on general cornering! It still behaved like this running on 4 leaves (standard pack has 5)... 3 leaves got the spring rate right for the weight of the zuk, but the 3rd (bottom most) leaf was just a little spacer thing that really did nothing, so that came out as well front and back.

I'm currently running 1.5 leaves in the rear (the main leaf and the mil wrap half of the second leaf) and 2 full length leaves in the front.

I can only do this because i have the trac bars though. Even running it on 3 leaves with 31s on the road with gentle acceleration was unbearable to drive with the massive vibes.

[Gwagensteve]

TryHard wrote:

hey steve iv seen u can buy a kit from low range with minimal fabing required and u could even run hliluxs springs with it .. it was mentioned earlyer

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -kits.html

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... -kits.html.

[/quote]

Those aren't kits, they are a collection of brackets. Let's take the trail tough kit as an example. Front and rear is $500.

To this, you have to add hi-steer - $365

Springs $$$

Bumpstops (quite apart from knowing where to put them)

Shocks - $ (and the knowledge of where to put them and how long and what valving to buy)

Shock mounts front and rear

Driveshaft mods/spacers

Brake lines

You need to think of SPOA as a $2.5K job - and there's almost no chance you're going to get those bolt on/missing link brackets legal. They might be bolt on, but the shock mounts aren't so you're not just throwing it back to standard in a weekend for a roadworthy if you get pinged.

SPOA is expensive and complex. Understand the advantages and disadvantages before you get started.

PS there's no difference in flex between a well sorted SPOA or SPUA suspension. I've never seen a RUF car flex as badly as MrRocky's car in that pic. they normally look like this:



33 9.5 BFG's, 2" BL OME RUF, N76 shocks, WT spring spacing.



35 13.5 Krawlers, 2" BL, OME RUF, N76 shocks, NT spring spacing.



35 13.5 Krawlers, no BL, OME RUF, rancho shocks.



This car is SPUA with hilux front leaves, from memory. It lacked many things, but not travel.

SPUA is no impediment to flex or tyre size. SPOA isn't cheaper or easier, so it's hard to see the advantage.

Just know what you are getting yourself in for.

Steve.

[alien]

^^ last one has 3/4 epileptic in the rear =P

I went SPOA on mine for 2 reasons:
- Because i had the money to burn at the time
- Because i wanted to do something 'different'

It wasnt a choice out of practicality - far from it - and if anyone asked me the best way to run 31's i'd tell them what you've been told above: 2" springs, RUF and a guard chop. (I'm not a fan of bodylifts myself).

[Gwagensteve]

alien wrote:

^^ last one has 3/4 epileptic in the rear =P

Yeah, but never mind the back.... look how good the front is working

In fairness, this car was hacked together for one trip seven years ago (not by me) and it was scary as hell, and every bit as loose and floppy as it looks, but my god, that front end flexed like a demon.

It was also crazy low.

Here a photo on flat ground to give you an idea of wheelbase and stance.



Steve.

[alien]

wow, thats cool... i've seen pics of it before but never side on like that.

do you remember what they did on the front end? it looks to be running 2 leaves in the pack, but im guessing something tricky was done to net that much flex.

[atari4x4]

nice front shock position, looks like you could get a massive shock in there!

[JrZook]

Mr G-man you seem to be forgetting the extended shackles on all those rigs above. How much longer are they?

Dan

Also doesnt that hardtop on 35's run stock rears up front? Not OME?

[Gwagensteve]

Nope, the Hardtop runs ome 3 leaf packs that are very flogged.

Yes, all those cars run extended shackles. The range from 25 to 40mm over standard (100-115mm between bolt centres)

Whilst it's possible to run RUF with stock shackles it's important to remember that RUF works a rear spring harder than it can work in the rear, mostly due to the higher arch in the chassis in the front. As such, front shackles don't really have enough range of motion, especially if the spring clamps have been pulled and very long shocks fitted.

Steve.