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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:26 am 
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I'm about to change my spark plugs in my j20a and am a little more curious about using anti-seize. I used anti seize the last time however I'm reading that using it may cause problems.

Is it wise to use anti seize in aluminium heads? If so what type - copper or nickel-based? Some people say copper, others say nickel-based for alloy heads.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:31 am 
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shouldn't need it?

you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:38 am 
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It's not about being too tight. It's about dissimilar metals (aluminium head and steel plug) going though repeated hot/cold cycles causing the seizing. Or that's what I'm reading at the moment.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:52 am 
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I always use anti-seize on my plugs. I don't put them in tight but just like the idea of using it, and I'm paranoid what you said about aluminium head and steel plug.
I have removed many a plug (not my cars) that you just about have to use a 4 foot bar on to get them out. Never had one snap on me and what a pain in thebum to get out if it did break in the head.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 12:01 pm 
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Bruce wrote:
I always use anti-seize on my plugs. I don't put them in tight but just like the idea of using it, and I'm paranoid what you said about aluminium head and steel plug.
I have removed many a plug (not my cars) that you just about have to use a 4 foot bar on to get them out. Never had one snap on me and what a pain in thebum to get out if it did break in the head.


Do you know which brand/type of anti seize you use - Copper or Nickel based?

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:43 pm 
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Copper is what I would recomend, nickel is generally used on stainless fastners

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:48 pm 
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I always use a small smear of copper anti sieze. It also helps to keep the firing voltages down

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:58 pm 
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Last edited by TZAR on Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:58 pm 
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Benz2369 wrote:
shouldn't need it?

you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?


X 2
Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it... :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:48 pm 
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MacBear wrote:
Benz2369 wrote:
shouldn't need it?

you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?


X 2
Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it... :wink:

but your both missing the point, you get a corrosion between the steel plug and the alloy head (because they are disimilar metals) that under certain circumstances will cause the plug to seize in the head or at worst csae pull out or damage the thead in the alloy head ,I doesnt matter whether they were super tight or seated and then 1/4 turn. Its particularly important IMO on motors that run 100,000km plugs
and back on the question I've used copper eze on my plugs for 10 years now and never had an issue. I use it on all plugs even ones into steel heads . its great on wheel studs too.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:04 pm 
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I use 771 only cause I have it in a little tube thing that makes wiping it on the plugs easy

Unless I am at bruces then I use some other stuff

In short buy whats available or in your budget, your list will get pretty short once you see what its worth

or grab some of this
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... ricant.htm

and this while your there

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... Grease.htm

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:20 pm 
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Is that permatex 771?

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:24 pm 
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:45 pm 
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this is the stuff there talking about I use the tube its easier like royce said
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:48 pm 
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royce wrote:


I tried to buy this yesterday... Supercrap in their stupid wisdom don't sell this anymore. Repco had no idea what I was talking about... retards.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:54 pm 
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Try a bearing shop like CBC.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 6:41 am 
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ajsr wrote:
MacBear wrote:
Benz2369 wrote:
shouldn't need it?

you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?


X 2
Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it... :wink:

but your both missing the point, you get a corrosion between the steel plug and the alloy head (because they are disimilar metals) that under certain circumstances will cause the plug to seize in the head or at worst csae pull out or damage the thead in the alloy head , Its particularly important IMO on motors that run 100,000km plugs

I have never experienced a plug seize in the head, even cars i have bought, that clearly, have not had a plug change in a longgggg time... i prefer not to leave plugs in for longer than 12 months, personal choice...
8O Wow 100,000kms on one set of plugs... i can see why they seized up in the head, and why you would be concerned about it happening again... :?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:13 am 
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MacBear wrote:
ajsr wrote:
MacBear wrote:
Benz2369 wrote:
shouldn't need it?

you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?


X 2
Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it... :wink:

but your both missing the point, you get a corrosion between the steel plug and the alloy head (because they are disimilar metals) that under certain circumstances will cause the plug to seize in the head or at worst csae pull out or damage the thead in the alloy head , Its particularly important IMO on motors that run 100,000km plugs

I have never experienced a plug seize in the head, even cars i have bought, that clearly, have not had a plug change in a longgggg time... i prefer not to leave plugs in for longer than 12 months, personal choice...
8O Wow 100,000kms on one set of plugs... i can see why they seized up in the head, and why you would be concerned about it happening again... :?


Most modern cars are like this. Because a V6 in a east west configuration need to have the whole intake manifold and associated componets removed and it can be up to $850 to replace 6 plugs.

Some plugs retail at $45 a plug too

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:41 am 
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Yeah, platinum and iridium plugs are good for 100,000kms

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:31 am 
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I've sold a few of these 226g tubs of Nickel Anti-Seize on E-bay for $20 plus post, still got a few left (Coke can not included). Should last you a lifetime of plug swaps.


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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:29 am 
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I'm looking for copper anti-seize. Do you sell that?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:41 am 
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never used anti seize on spark plugs.

never, not once, had an issue taking them out either.

worked at a wrecking yard, lost count of the motors ive had to compression test, and yet again, never had an issue with plugs seized in the heads.

like oil filters, if you use the correct procedure putting it in, you shouldnt have an issue taking it out, alloy is soft, so if you tighten the plug down to one billion foot pounds, anti seize or not, your gonna have issues.

that saidm 100,000k plugs are probably worth using anti seize on, but using them on your standard 10,000k plugs would be a waste of money, unless the valley where your spark plugs sit is constantly swimming in water.

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