[shep]

i thought i might put this in here as it is a very strong way of mounting winch bars.

bashed some pipe into the front chassis rail


trimmed the chassis rail leaving around 10mm sticking out from the body mount.


made a plate to slip over the chassis rale and to tie in with the body mount.
ball has the measurements for these plates and can make them.


glue the plate to the chassis rail and the body mount.


make a plate to bolt to the chassis plate


then make ya bar around the plate and it will be as strong as fuck.
notch the plate to fit the tube for the strongest results.


sit around for a bit while i whinge about how hot it is.

[royce]

Ive always thought this would be a really good way of making decent front recovery points, stick some holes in the plate to fit shackles through

[ball]

royce wrote:

Ive always thought this would be a really good way of making decent front recovery points, stick some holes in the plate to fit shackles through

I was going to do that but the bottom of the mounts get very close to the shackles. I didn't want to take the chance they would hit knowing what a rough bastard shep is.

If we had made the bar sit a bit further forward it would have worked.

[royce]

like this

[ball]

That would work if the lower bar for the shep proof winch mount wasn't in the way.

If you just wanted a recovery point then it would be fine.

[lump_a_charcoal]

What OD pipe or tube did you use?

[royce]

would be 32nb I reckon

[shep]

the OD was 42 or 43mm

[4WDNROX]

Hey Shep, Are those Calmini rear shakles your running on the front? if so how well do they help? Obviously they allow a slightly longer spring

[shep]

4WDNROX wrote:

Hey Shep, Are those Calmini rear shakles your running on the front? if so how well do they help? Obviously they allow a slightly longer spring

haha i broke them, now have a set of fat zooks shackles. i had some
dramas with inverting shackles with the stock ones.

[danw]

would this work if the tubing has split right against the chassis?
i was thinking i could just grind that off and then just smash the tube through that?

would it be best to leave the same distance coming out? or just 10mm out of the chassis and weld the plate on there??

sorry to bring an old post out of the grave just did a search and found it.

[Jccck]

royce wrote:

like this

That's exactly how my front tow point is designed haha!
I used 2 high tensile bolts, and then welded anywhere i could get to anyway

Good idea is to countersink/notch the inside of that hole that goes over the pipe.. So it sits nice n flush against the chassis rail overtop of the weld

[laurie]

on a w/t the spring mount would get in the way.
on a n/t it doesn't.

[danw]

Jccck wrote:

royce wrote:

like this

That's exactly how my front tow point is designed haha!
I used 2 high tensile bolts, and then welded anywhere i could get to anyway

Good idea is to countersink/notch the inside of that hole that goes over the pipe.. So it sits nice n flush against the chassis rail overtop of the weld

what do you mean by countersink? what needs to sit flush?? the bracket??

[Jccck]

laurie wrote:

on a w/t the spring mount would get in the way.
on a n/t it doesn't.

NT with WT diffs bro

danw wrote:

Jccck wrote:

royce wrote:

like this

That's exactly how my front tow point is designed haha!
I used 2 high tensile bolts, and then welded anywhere i could get to anyway

Good idea is to countersink/notch the inside of that hole that goes over the pipe.. So it sits nice n flush against the chassis rail overtop of the weld

what do you mean by countersink? what needs to sit flush?? the bracket??

Yeah, i have my tow point bracket flush with the chassis rail, and coupled around the inch or so of chassis tube i left for the body mount
You cut the 3/4 circle out, or 1/2 circle like i did.. And get the grinder out and chamfer the inside edge so it sits flat over the fillet weld

[shep]

Jccck wrote:

laurie wrote:

on a w/t the spring mount would get in the way.
on a n/t it doesn't.

NT with WT diffs bro

danw wrote:

Jccck wrote:

royce wrote:

like this

That's exactly how my front tow point is designed haha!
I used 2 high tensile bolts, and then welded anywhere i could get to anyway

Good idea is to countersink/notch the inside of that hole that goes over the pipe.. So it sits nice n flush against the chassis rail overtop of the weld

what do you mean by countersink? what needs to sit flush?? the bracket??

Yeah, i have my tow point bracket flush with the chassis rail, and coupled around the inch or so of chassis tube i left for the body mount
You cut the 3/4 circle out, or 1/2 circle like i did.. And get the grinder out and chamfer the inside edge so it sits flat over the fillet weld

or you could just do it the way we did and have it proper strong.

[shep]

danw wrote:

would this work if the tubing has split right against the chassis?
i was thinking i could just grind that off and then just smash the tube through that?

would it be best to leave the same distance coming out? or just 10mm out of the chassis and weld the plate on there??

sorry to bring an old post out of the grave just did a search and found it.

on my LWB there is none of the original round cross member left it is all pipe.
i reckon you will be laughing.

[Jccck]

shep wrote:

Jccck wrote:

laurie wrote:

on a w/t the spring mount would get in the way.
on a n/t it doesn't.

NT with WT diffs bro

danw wrote:

Jccck wrote:

royce wrote:

like this

That's exactly how my front tow point is designed haha!
I used 2 high tensile bolts, and then welded anywhere i could get to anyway

Good idea is to countersink/notch the inside of that hole that goes over the pipe.. So it sits nice n flush against the chassis rail overtop of the weld

what do you mean by countersink? what needs to sit flush?? the bracket??

Yeah, i have my tow point bracket flush with the chassis rail, and coupled around the inch or so of chassis tube i left for the body mount
You cut the 3/4 circle out, or 1/2 circle like i did.. And get the grinder out and chamfer the inside edge so it sits flat over the fillet weld

or you could just do it the way we did and have it proper strong.

I actually did what you did, aswell as doing this.. So its super super strong

[86slowsierra]

Jccck wrote:

shep wrote:

Jccck wrote:

laurie wrote:

on a w/t the spring mount would get in the way.
on a n/t it doesn't.

NT with WT diffs bro

danw wrote:

Jccck wrote:

royce wrote:

like this

That's exactly how my front tow point is designed haha!
I used 2 high tensile bolts, and then welded anywhere i could get to anyway

Good idea is to countersink/notch the inside of that hole that goes over the pipe.. So it sits nice n flush against the chassis rail overtop of the weld

what do you mean by countersink? what needs to sit flush?? the bracket??

Yeah, i have my tow point bracket flush with the chassis rail, and coupled around the inch or so of chassis tube i left for the body mount
You cut the 3/4 circle out, or 1/2 circle like i did.. And get the grinder out and chamfer the inside edge so it sits flat over the fillet weld

or you could just do it the way we did and have it proper strong.

I actually did what you did, aswell as doing this.. So its super super strong

what the hell are you lot on about?
pics?

[danw]

more pics would be great.
mine is SWB too not LWB...

snapped the mount off using the bullbar to hold car and stop from rolling...

[laurie]

ball fantastic mounts very strong i tested them this morning
two of my welds broke but the mounts are as new
without the bar i would have been walking i reckon.

[shep]

geezzz what did ya hit?

[ball]

You scratched the new paintjob

[steve]

was the other car white?

[ball]

steve wrote:

was the other car white?

and is it dead now

[laurie]

yes i scratched it all right .
yes the other car/van was white .
ill leave it to cops and insurance now.
both cars drove away.

[laurie]

shep wrote:

geezzz what did ya hit?

would you believe a p plater

[danw]

just wondering if someone could help out??

the pic is what im thinking as the mount plate for the tube bar i am making i also want to attach some D-shackles for recovery.. can these be all together on the one plate??
im using 6mm plate.
and have dont the above smashing some extra tube through the chassis to strengthen. just going to be welding plate and bar straight to the tube..

thanks

[shep]

i wouldn't weld a bar to the chassis, much better to make it so it can come off.
also the chassis rail is very thin so i would bash some pipe in, you dont need much and it is very cheap.

[shep]

danw wrote:

more pics would be great.
mine is SWB too not LWB...

snapped the mount off using the bullbar to hold car and stop from rolling...

the pics are a WT SWB hardtop and i did exactly the same for my NT LWB softtop