[DMAC]

The "Smurf" just stopped dead a couple of days ago.
Anyway I've got it home and started running through the basic checks.
No spark. I've run through Section 8 of the manual.

Coil resistances are OK.
Pickup to generator gap OK.

I've tried the insert screwdriver to check for the voltage flucuation at the coil. No change in the meter. However I was using a digital meter which isn't the greatest when looking for a small voltage change.

It appears that I'm up for a generator/ignitor change.

Question is has anyone had the generator/ignitor fail?
Looks like you have to remove the dizzy to do this too.

Or any othr suggestions as to what it maybe, as I thought the electronic ignition wold be pretty reliable.

[Ben_Sierra]

The ignitor in my Sierra failed... Got a second hand dizzy, all sweet now...

I think around 90/91 the dizzys changed, but mine had the ignitor built-in so it was a whole dizzy replacement.

Though, last time I had no spark, I found one of the wires to the coil had broken. If you haven't already I'd double check all that sorta thing first...

[royce]

I assume youve done the basics of power at the coil + and switching to earth on the - side as well? and triple checked the ignition fuse hasnt blown as well?

[DMAC]

royce wrote:

I assume youve done the basics of power at the coil + and switching to earth on the - side as well? and triple checked the ignition fuse hasnt blown as well?

Yep fuse is fine.

Yep 12V at the coil with the ignition on.

Whats the switching to earth on the negitive side mean?

[Ben_Sierra]

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

[Rusho]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

Do you understand all this technical info DMAC?? Do you need a real sparky to come help you? I can bring my universal tool kit to fix it for you....





























































A shifter

Good luck with the fix buddy

[royce]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

Actually it sparks when the ground goes open and the field collapses

but yeah bang the clip on your test light on power and stick the pointy end on teh coil negative and it should flash the light when you crank it, if not and you get voltage pulses on the pickup wires its the ignitor

[DMAC]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

Actually the -ve of the coil is the + of the battery although I don't think the coil is polarity conscious.

I did check if there was any voltage fluctuation on both sides of the coil when I cranked it over, There was none.

Sounds like I'm just trying to put off the ineviitable.
I'll try and grab an AVO from work if they still have them there.

Rusho yep come on over I need someone to hold a wire to really really confirm there is no volts coming out of the coil.

[royce]

stop thinking like an electrician, this complex stuff will confuse you

coil is polarity conscious, but only to the extent that it will spark the wrong way and wear the plugs funny

you dont want voltage fluctuation, there is no fluctuation, you want the test light to flash to indicate there is a circuit switching to earth in time with the engine, there is nothing on a sierra you cant test with only a test light

[tombutt]

rusho a sparky haha buddy you wish stick to fencing

[zuki]

DMAC wrote:

Rusho yep come on over I need someone to hold a wire to really really confirm there is no volts coming out of the coil.

that ought to live'n him up a bit

David

[Rusho]

DMAC wrote:

Rusho yep come on over I need someone to hold a wire to really really confirm there is no volts coming out of the coil.

Don't you have a navigatior for that?? I'll be over soon, i'll bring my rubbers

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

stop thinking like an electrician, this complex stuff will confuse you

coil is polarity conscious, but only to the extent that it will spark the wrong way and wear the plugs funny

you dont want voltage fluctuation, there is no fluctuation, you want the test light to flash to indicate there is a circuit switching to earth in time with the engine, there is nothing on a sierra you cant test with only a test light :)

Set back lash??

[royce]

you need tools for that?

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

you need tools for that?

Yep, rattle gun & hammer!!

[DMAC]

royce wrote:

Ben_Sierra wrote:

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

Actually it sparks when the ground goes open and the field collapses

but yeah bang the clip on your test light on power and stick the pointy end on teh coil negative and it should flash the light when you crank it, if not and you get voltage pulses on the pickup wires its the ignitor

OK if the voltage "fluctuates" this much I should have picked it up with my multi meter. Looks like a new ignitor. Glad it happened 500m from home not 1/2 way up little red.

Rusho you know you need more than rubbers for this kind of work. I know you would have gloves on too. All about safety now.

[steak_knife]

DMAC wrote:

royce wrote:

Ben_Sierra wrote:

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

Actually it sparks when the ground goes open and the field collapses

but yeah bang the clip on your test light on power and stick the pointy end on teh coil negative and it should flash the light when you crank it, if not and you get voltage pulses on the pickup wires its the ignitor

OK if the voltage "fluctuates" this much I should have picked it up with my multi meter. Looks like a new ignitor. Glad it happened 500m from home not 1/2 way up little red.

Rusho you know you need more than rubbers for this kind of work. I know you would have gloves on too. All about safety now.

Test light.

[want33s]

Only problem I've ever heard of with Sierra ignition was a dead dizzy module... Fixed by replacing the dizzy.

[DMAC]

want33s wrote:

Only problem I've ever heard of with Sierra ignition was a dead dizzy module... Fixed by replacing the dizzy.

Yep agreed manual states you can't seperate the generator or ignitor. (dizzy module) Looks like it comes out easy, once the dizzy is removed, just need to source one.

[want33s]

DMAC wrote:

just need to source one.

Got several here mate.

[eldo]

royce wrote:

Ben_Sierra wrote:

The - of the coil should go to ground at the time you want a spark, this is what will cause to coil to give you the spark...

Actually it sparks when the ground goes open and the field collapses

but yeah bang the clip on your test light on power and stick the pointy end on teh coil negative and it should flash the light when you crank it, if not and you get voltage pulses on the pickup wires its the ignitor

i used to set my timing like this years ago with a test light and ill be fucked if i can remember how to do it again, it was on my old datto stanza and the light would light up as the lead was energized, basically turning the motor by hand until the timing mark was where i wanted it to be and then moving the dizzy until the light lit up, im sure it can be done on the sierra dizzy but i cant remember the correct way to attach the test light. any thoughts guys, royce im sure you will know?

[royce]

set the engine at teh timing mark you want it to be

test light over the coil terminals

advance the dizzy past where you want and bring it back slowly till the light jsut comes on and lock it there

usually most engines will idle at a bit higher than the static mark you set it at

I set the dwell on my mini like this, set the engine back to your mark and adjsut the point gap till the light flickers, always ends up spot on

[eldo]

I WAS GOING TO DO A WRITE UP ON IToops caps lock, i will have a go at it in a minute, it really is a good way to set it up at home i guess, and yep it was always spot on in my old stanza

[royce]

wont work to well with electronic cause it wont stay on it will jsut flash really quick

the wind it up till it pings and back it off works though

[eldo]

hey just tried it, and no lights on the test lamp, only way i can get the test lamp to light up is by earthing it. my car runs its just that i wanted to set the timing up at the correct setting since i have given it a major service

[eldo]

its pinging now royce, hence why i was trying to set it at 10btdc to ensure it is set right. my old stanza had electric dizzy and it worked sweet

[DMAC]

want33s wrote:

DMAC wrote:

just need to source one.

Got several here mate.

Sorry Jas missed this.
Picked up a second hand jobbie today. I have put it in and I have Spark.

Just keep putting the dizzy in 1 tooth out.

I will have it running tomorrow.

[royce]

eldo wrote:

its pinging now royce, hence why i was trying to set it at 10btdc to ensure it is set right. my old stanza had electric dizzy and it worked sweet

just retard it till it stops

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

eldo wrote:

its pinging now royce, hence why i was trying to set it at 10btdc to ensure it is set right. my old stanza had electric dizzy and it worked sweet

just retard it till it stops

He's running std ulp.

[DMAC]

OK I have spark but now it won't rev without missing like crazy over 3000 rpm.
I have set the timing as per spec 8 degrees BTDC at 850 rpm. Timing mark advances when revved so I assume vacuum advance is working OK.

I'm a lttle dubious about the exchange module. As far as I'm concerned its 1 tooth out from where it should be. This also being the only thing I've altered.

Anymore suggestions?