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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 6:55 am 
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Driving the Jimy around town she's aces, driving on the Highway also no problems.. But if I drive the boggy sand tracks for more then about 20 minutes in Low Range. Heat goes up to about 3/4 from the usual 1/2 way.

I have ordered a new Thermostat, should this fix the problem? or is there a common problem with the M13a engine I have missed?

Not sure if it's related, or just something else I need to fix.. but when I switch the Heater on, all I'm getting is cold air, great air flow - but no change in Air Temp.

Thanks in Advance
Peter

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 7:27 am 
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Your car is working harder, at a slower speed.

Sounds about right.

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 7:28 am 
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How many km's?
Have you just had a service?
Do you check you level's under the bonnet?

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 7:32 am 
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steknig wrote:
How many km's?
Have you just had a service?
Do you check you level's under the bonnet?


x 2 sounds like its low on coolant if the heater isn't hot.

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:14 am 
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PeterW wrote:
Driving the Jimy around town she's aces, driving on the Highway also no problems.. But if I drive the boggy sand tracks for more then about 20 minutes in Low Range. Heat goes up to about 3/4 from the usual 1/2 way.

I have ordered a new Thermostat, should this fix the problem? or is there a common problem with the M13a engine I have missed?

Not sure if it's related, or just something else I need to fix.. but when I switch the Heater on, all I'm getting is cold air, great air flow - but no change in Air Temp.

Thanks in Advance
Peter


my jimny never overheated in tassie dunes, so yours should not. make sure there is no air pockets in the system and as has been said levels are correct. if all that fails you might have a blocked radiator internaly, it needs to be pulled apart and cleaned by a pro. no biggie tho...

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:14 am 
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M13a's can get a lazy fan clutch but x3 on the coolant level or I guess a blockage somewhere

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:16 am 
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You would definitely expect it to be hotter in low range and sand. You're working the car much harder and there is less airflow through the radiator, so it makes sense...

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:17 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
steknig wrote:
How many km's?
Have you just had a service?
Do you check you level's under the bonnet?


x 2 sounds like its low on coolant if the heater isn't hot.
Coolant Levels are High and are nice and green,

She has done 160,000, but drives like a new one.. and no complaints about response..

But she's probably due for a service, Have only had it for a week.. previous owners did there own servicing the last few times..

Don't want to cook it in Low Range... want to get a bit more life out of the M13a before 'needing' to do a conversion

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:20 am 
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Cheers for all the responses.. Somebody said to me I might have a blocked hose to the Heater box,, how do you find the Heater box? I don't even know what one looks like.. lol

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:21 am 
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PeterW wrote:
She has done 160,000, but drives like a new one..


we get our rads 'poked out' about every 80-100k. the corrosion that the coolant washes off the motor inside gets trapped in the core. start your car up and after 5 minutes check the temps of the top and lower rad hoses, if there is a big difference you have a blocked core causing the temp fluctuations.

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:23 am 
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do both heater hoses get hot? it could be simple like a popped control cable under the dash

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:25 am 
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Get the rad cleaned out & put a thermostat ( new ) in it, when you run the coolant through have the heater on & the car on a SLIGHT up hill, nose up, this should get any air pocket's out.
Same eng in swift's suffer from air lock when changing coolant but I have never had a problem with Jim's.
Would pay to look at the clutch fan to, see if there is resistance when you try to spin it, make sure the eng is OFF.

I've only replaced 1 fan clutch & that was because of physical damage..

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:36 am 
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X2 viscous hub fan ..

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:39 am 
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when you run the coolant through have the heater on & the car on a SLIGHT up hill, nose up, this should get any air pocket's out.


Do you mean now, or after I have the Heater fixed?
Peter

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:43 am 
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Speaking of which, are these the x2 heater hoses?


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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:51 am 
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No, that's the A/c hose's & the TX valve is behind it.

I'd try to run the coolant through the heater 1st, same as I said before, nose on a slight uphill heater on car running & rad cap off, do it from a cold start if you can. Top the water up when it need's it.

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:56 am 
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Ha ha,, A/c con eh.. couldn't tell you if the heater pipes are getting hot then.. I'll have to try the flush then, thanks Steknig

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 10:07 am 
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PeterW wrote:
Ha ha,, A/c con eh.. couldn't tell you if the heater pipes are getting hot then.. I'll have to try the flush then, thanks Steknig


get it done by a radiator shop.

& no worry's mate.. :P :P :P

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Post Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 10:23 am 
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If everything is working properly the temp gauge should only go above half if something is wrong or its on fire..... in which case something is very wrong.

I've only seen 1 fan clutch in a Jimny die too (mine) but than again I don't work on only Suzuki's.

symtoms were over heating on freeway and in the bush or beach or hot days. i could drive along the freeway with the gauge starting to rise and than wind the windows down and put the heater on full and this would drop the temp but in the middle of summer I'd rather A/C. no oil leaking from clutch too. just stopped engaging unless I used cable ties

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 7:29 am 
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losfer wrote:
X2 viscous hub fan ..


On it being the problem??

Have you changed a few??

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:41 am 
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Speaking of the Heater Hoses,, the only hoses coming through the Firewall that i can see, other then the A/C posted above are these attached..

Can't see how that would help with the heating? Am I looking in the wrong place?


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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:42 am 
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or


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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:45 am 
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your heater doesn't work because it's been bypassed.

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:51 am 
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why would a spaz do that? I though that hose bent over looked odd..

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 9:09 am 
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there should be 2 hoses on there one takes coolant in and the other out so something must be wrong with it for them to by pass the whole thing.

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 9:19 am 
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PeterW wrote:
why would a spaz do that? I though that hose bent over looked odd..


the heater core may have been leaking or some realy smart back yarder may have thort that if they bypassed the heater that it would help it not over heat on the beach because the heater heats up the coolant more hahahahahah ... maybe try pulling one hose end of the hose off and put the hose in it and see if it leaks inside the car and if not maybe hook it back up and keep an eye on it if it leaks or not

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 9:23 am 
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flaxton123 wrote:
PeterW wrote:
why would a spaz do that? I though that hose bent over looked odd..


the heater core may have been leaking or some realy smart back yarder may have thort that if they bypassed the heater that it would help it not over heat on the beach because the heater heats up the coolant more hahahahahah ... maybe try pulling one hose end of the hose off and put the hose in it and see if it leaks inside the car and if not maybe hook it back up and keep an eye on it if it leaks or not



I'd lean towards this one, if that isn't the case, unless it has been FULL of coolant, you will be needing a heater core.
That shouldn't of passed a safety inspection..

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 9:32 am 
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[quote=" That shouldn't of passed a safety inspection..[/quote]
we dont have safety inspections in wa :roll:

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 9:42 am 
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BJPK wrote:
[quote=" That shouldn't of passed a safety inspection..

we dont have safety inspections in wa :roll:[/quote]

So no inspection for change of ownership??

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Post Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:01 am 
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steknig wrote:
BJPK wrote:
[quote=" That shouldn't of passed a safety inspection..

we dont have safety inspections in wa :roll:


So no inspection for change of ownership??[/quote]nope, up to us to check things over, or call RAC for about $200 or something. last one I had - they didn't pick anything up, so I didn't bother getting one.
Peter

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