[lump_a_charcoal]

Hi - Me again... sorry...

I have been searching Outer limits and here, but I cannot find who makes the plates that you weld onto the Hilux perches to give the correct width for Sierra springs...

Also, With the rear diff i got today, I recieved some Lux rear springs. I was wondering where the benefit is in using Hilux springs on a Sierra? Is it for more articulation?

Sorry for always bringing up Hilux questions, I know it goes against a lot of your morals regarding Zooks...

[Nik]

Hey mate I think snake racing sell the spring perches. You only need 2 do the rear and then move the front springs out to match the pads.
I personally havent used the lux leaves but Im running rears all round and looking into longer rears. As well as the giving you a longer wheelbase that makes it more stable you get a better ride and more flex.
Nik

[lump_a_charcoal]

How do you move the front springs out?

Cut off the spring mount and re weld them further out?

Thanks for the reply finally, I thought I must have offended someone!

[Nik]

No worries bud. I got Overkill to do mine as Im not good enough at welding + for the amount of wofk vs the amount of $ it was a good choice. I THINK wt zook bolt up to the front housing but as mine was a nt the shackle and solid mount were cut of and rewelded out board to match the diff. You will probly need shock hoops in the front as well. I used a overkill double steering arm with a custom tie rod for steering.
Keep asking if you want and I,ll try to help.
Nik

[lump_a_charcoal]

Ok yeah once I have finished moving (into an awesome double garage) I'll be taking measurements, starting to cut things off the lux diffs, and Ill work out the perches then...

Did the shock hoops weld or bolt on?

[Nik]

Mine were welded on but be careful of chassis number and maybe plate it first. Mine were welded straight to the chassis and they both ripped out leaving big holes so we welded a plate top to bottom on the chassis and it still flexes.
Nik

[MART]

Mate , I made shock hoops which weld and bolt on. I used the tube that goes through the chassis and sleeved it with a close fitting pipe. I did move and replace the front chassis tube but did not move it very far. You might be able to use the original tube to do something like this. This stops the shock hoop from moving and fatigueing the chassis. I used 16mm high tensile rod on the front and nuts to clamp front mount. There is a washer welded into the grey tube which sleeves the green original tube to locate and keep brooker rod central. The shock hoops are 32 x 4 tube. Top shock mount is 50 x 8 flatbar with 16mm high tensile bolt with nyloc nut. Rear mount is 100 x 100x 6 flat bar welded to light blue chassis. Also 16mm rod welded to plate first. I drilled a hole in the 100 x 100 x 6 plate and welded rod on both sides. The tube which is grey is welded on the inside with a stick welder. The rod is ground smooth on the back of the mounting plate to fit level with chassis. The grey tube also has a washer to keep rod centralised. Hope this helps , Cheers Paul.

[lump_a_charcoal]

Wow that is great, this should go into the bible! Nice work there Mart!