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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:19 pm 
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The rear bar was a bit rusty when I first bought my sierra :roll: so I decided that I needed to get something decent there that could take a few more hits then the stock one :twisted: . I also wanted the lights in the back to be waterproof which the new LED’s are. Got them from work (BCF) for about $35 a light 8O (staff discount 8) ).

Before with Stock Back

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Half Done

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After shot of Completed Bar :D :D

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Capped ends

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Nice Led Angle

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Flat Across the Back

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I painted it black because the eventual plan for the vehicle is to go with a really bright yellow or orange with black stripes the bonnent with all black bar work. looks really neat on the back i think.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:25 pm 
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That came out pretty nice. I like how you capped the ends, that's neat.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:44 pm 
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8)

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Last edited by BlueSuzy on Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:47 pm 
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Looks sweet as, The steampipe bends make it really easy to make a bar ay :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:25 pm 
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yeah we picked them up from a local steel shop for $5 a bend. I have a pipe bender but everytime we tried to get the pipe to bend it was too tight and the pipe would kink very badly. It would have cost us more for an engineering place to do the bends on their bender so it was much better this way

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:10 pm 
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so you didn't have to bend anything to make that bar?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:18 pm 
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nope, just like mine Mike, The bends are neatly welded into the right spot, then the weld is grinded/ flapper wheeled down to smooth flush looking.

Also the bends have 45 deg. chamfers so the weld won't be lost after the grinding.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:23 pm 
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if only i had a welder :cry:
you need to mig weld them right?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:26 pm 
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nah no bends at all and just like BlueSuzy said it makes the welding so easy. A lot of places selling steel can sell you them just ask for however many mm elbows. When it was done we didnt want the grinds looking bad so we covered it with some really thick undercoat rust prooving stuff dad used on his patrol and now it is incredibly smooth the whole way around.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:27 pm 
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mig ,tig, stick, braise.

Some form of welding yes :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:29 pm 
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we used mig but yeah they all work. also we used a pipe cutter on the rest of the steel which allows the tube to get the chamfers on it aswell so it was all chamfered. Came out looking very neat because of it

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:30 pm 
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did the same thing for the light bar

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:30 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
mig ,tig, stick, braise.

Some form of welding yes :lol:

what about glue? :?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:32 pm 
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your probably pushing that the better way to go is borrow, if you use glue you will probably find it falling to pieces when you drop off something

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:40 pm 
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I think glue is pushing it alittle Mikey :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:43 pm 
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i got some pretty strong glue though :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:46 pm 
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it could be done yes definetly but i wouldnt recommend it for the sake of the safety of your car. cheap is good yes but welds are better. take it to someone once you have it all cut to size and they can stick it together

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:03 am 
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nice work on the rear bar. :) how's departure angle compared to std rear bar :?:

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:15 am 
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exactly the same because of the towbar that is there. I want to keep it there for a while so it hits not my fuel tank

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:19 am 
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is it mounted to the same places as the original bumper?

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:40 am 
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nah i cut the old mounts of because they where made of tin and used like 1/4 inch angle and wedged it between the body and something else hard to explain ill put some pics up tomorow

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:42 am 
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so its mounted stronger than the original?

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:49 am 
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oh yeah a lot stronger. I am about 75kg and could jump up and down on this bar when it was put in

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:54 am 
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the standard bar is stronger than that

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:19 am 
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oh well the new one is built strong ill tell you that it weighs quite a bit and has 4 250mm long solid welds on each pipe to the mounting plates ill take some more pics and you will see

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:33 pm 
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This is the mounting plate we used. The plate is bolted using high tensile bolts between the tow bar and the mounts on the body

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Hope this helps

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:20 am 
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so it bolts upto where the tow bar bolts too?
does anyone know if thats strong enough to to recover off?

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:24 am 
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I had a rear bar that attached to the towbar points with recovery points built in with some pretty savage recoveries and never had a problem

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:36 am 
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royce wrote:
I had a rear bar that attached to the towbar points with recovery points built in with some pretty savage recoveries and never had a problem


looks like i need a bar like that then
would you have any pics of said bar by any chance? :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:39 am 
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I do as a matter of fact, I just cant find them :)

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