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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:43 am 
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joe5701 wrote:
gday, I'v been looking through a few threads about ruf and have noticed most people say that to get the hanger distance right it takes a bit of stuffing around, but why cant I just measure the rear hanger distance center to center and bang the front on at the same measurement?
I intend on useing stock rears and stock shackles.
Just thinking as im typing is it the extra load on the springs that makes them sit flatter so the hanger needs to be further forward? cheers,joe


you probably could use the rear hanger measurements, although I dont think they are ideal either and as such I moved the mount measurements on my red car for a better shackle angle

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:44 am 
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Alot of the guys are running OME springs, and I'm pretty sure some of them run heavy duty (constant) rears up front.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:33 am 
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thanks fellas :wink:
is anyone running bog stock rears in the front? how do they go?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:46 am 
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I have done it with stock shackles and springs and I'm yet to see (still building). I just measured the rear distance and made the same up front with a chassis extension.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:50 am 
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thats the plans for mine. so Id still need roughly 40mm lifted springs in the rear? to keep it level or not?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:56 am 
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AFAIK you wont because the front hanger has been moved. I will just add a few more to the front pack or make slightly longer shackles if the ass sits higher once there the motor and cab etc are on...

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:35 pm 
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alien wrote:
as you said, the front weighs more than the rear so the leaf sits flatter and so will the shackle angle... you could load up the rear with weight to see where the shackle ends up with those measurements and use that as a guide though =)


The front will weigh more maybe when there is no-one driving, just remember how 'heavy' a zuk drive-train is.

The issue is the angle that the chassis slopes up on the front which causes greater shackle angles per same hanger spacings as the rear.

If you run with 990-995mm spacings on the front with stock shackles and stock length rears you will be fine. Word of warning, these measurements are critical do not try and get gready with ypur shackle angles by going <990 or it will not work as many have found. Stay on the + side of it.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:02 am 
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So it should be 990-995 from centre on mounting hole (on the chassis at the front (shackle mount)) to the centre of the rear hole?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:09 am 
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Correcto

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:12 am 
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When I do my ruf how far do I put my rear mount back? I one wanna move my diff forward 1"

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:12 am 
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When I do my ruf how far do I put my rear mount back? I one wanna move my diff forward 1"

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 4:26 am 
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Read my build thread, there is some info regarding spring center bolt spacings etc in it.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:10 pm 
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Hey guys can someone make these links work again please! Thank you

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:22 pm 
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Which ones? I only found one not working

31zook wrote:
this is a good topic starter, it outlines the mechanics of a RUF (rear up front) and most to all the questions about it are answered in it.
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... hlight=ruf
Gwagensteve has posted a good ruf write up on OL, if anyone has saved that then chuck it up here as OL links are long gawn


Here is the updated link - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21321&highlight=ruf

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:27 pm 
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Thanks bud

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:51 pm 
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Hi, just wondering if anyone's done this on an LJ as I measured them and the pins/hangers are the same measurement, any suggestions?

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