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Post Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:38 pm 
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They also have 200kg of motor in them also which compounds height changes fairly drastically.

Yeah totally Bev, I do allot of super steep stuff, which means ill be low as possible, but will adjust for comfort lol

Ahh yes, my last lux diff'd sierra had awful turning radius and was a bit of a pig. Yes I know up travel will suck, but going by where the pumpkin lands I might only have to notch the chassis slightly.

I guess it could be the first...

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:08 pm 
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You know of.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:41 pm 
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What one do you know of? Always keen to learn from others.

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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:58 am
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Location: Mandurah.W.A.
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Post Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:51 pm 
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17" belly/33s on mwb would near on perfect in my imo unless your in Vic...

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:55 pm 
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Z the chassis.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:09 am 
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Stock springs
bodylift
gaurd chop
33s or 34s with beadlocks.
6.5s
Maybe diff gears for extra low depends on your terrain.
two ractchets lockers with chromos.
General upkeep brakes seals etc.

Dont touch anything else wheel the shite out of it. Its what i wish id done. As soon as you start dicking with motors n crap you lose the reliability.
Oh and shave your diffs makes a stack of difference.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:12 am 
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Dont bother with lux diffs just buy a lux haha. Everyone is going too out of control with their builds these days. The closer you can stay to being stock, while getting the most capability out of your car is where youll have the most fun. The more you 'build' a car the less you drive it. Unfortunately its an inverse relationship haha, i dont care what anyone says its true

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:19 am 
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im looking at buying dana44 knuckles, grafting them onto a vitara diff, with 30spline side gears.

steering lock on dana diffs tends to be alot nicer than closed knuckles from what ive found

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:13 am 
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Joshyboy26 wrote:
...The closer you can stay to being stock, while getting the most capability out of your car is where youll have the most fun...


Ain't that some truth!

And let me know how you go Darren. Would be cool to see some dana wheel lock on a roadie.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:30 am 
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this may be a retarded idea but how would mog nuckles and portals go? could you weld them onto the ends of a braced standard axle and go from there?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:34 am 
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could be done, Overkill did it to toyota diffs recently.

but for the cost and effort its not worth it. I very rarly have issues with diff clearance now and like my cars narrow so this helps me keep wheels up on things and stops me diffing out.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:37 am 
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Plus mog diffs are expensive and the 17s you need to run with them will add width and cost etc.

If I want to swap in lux diffs I would run 0 or positive offset wheels.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:49 am 
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i would have thought the mog diffs wouldn't be needed with the portals providing 1:2 gear reduction at the wheels meaning the suzuki diff is handling half the torque.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:51 am 
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i think the point is that portals no matter what they come from are super expensive.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:53 am 
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You can get positive offset wheels in 17s. I was pulling apart a Mog 404 portal on the weekend for a future project and it weighs a lot.

You'd be looking at around an extra 35kg at each corner. You can get custom housings for them to lighten the load but that's more dollars.

You would be getting half the torque but you'd need to seriously beef up your suzuki diff housing to take the weight. You'd also need to adapt a tiny 26 spline shaft up to a huge mog axle.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:53 am 
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ahh yeh farienuff. bloke can dream haha

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:19 am 
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I'm starting from scratch with my longwheelbase and I'm pretty much building it how I built my sj410 but I'm trying to make it easier to work on.

Spec will be 1.6 16vi instead of a 1.6 8v carb. Vit rad.
Jimny power steering.

Vitara gearbox mated to 4.16:1 tbox instead of the twin transfer box set up. it's a nightmare to work on the transmission as there's a lot to remove in one go. Tbox raised for a flat belly.

WT front axle with chromos and a shortened full float vit rear instead of a samurai based full floater like I have now. 4.6 diff gears. Shaved diffs. 2.0l GV brakes up front, swb 1.6 vit callipers on the rear. ARB in the rear (and front when I can afford that one) NT front spring spacing for more tyre clearance.

255/85r16 tyres instead of 33x12.50

Guard chop and tucked sills/mini boatsides, I like the extra clearance this gives me on the swb. Rear shock towers through the floor.

YJ/hilux springs on the rear and RUF instead of YJs all round as I don't like the reduced approach angle on the front with YJs, never had an issue with them on the rear though.

My 410
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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:30 am 
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Thats mint ^^^ nice stance not too tall pretty wide tho!

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:31 am 
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That's pretty much my plan for my SWB rebuild. Gearing more in the transfer and LWB brakes up front.

I'm over playing with leaf springs, I'll run OME all round. It's enough comfort and enough flex. For the area I'd rather flick a locker on than have chassis extensions.

Not that it will be the ultimate build but it will be a car I can get in and do local tracks in without too much hassle besides the tyres, back to how it use to be.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:23 pm 
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Joshyboy26 wrote:
Thats mint ^^^ nice stance not too tall pretty wide tho!


Thanks and yes I agree it's too wide, that's why I want to go with 255/85r16s on the next build. Doesn't help that the full float conversion on the rear also adds around 76mm to the width of the rear axle, the reason why I am going to go with a shortened vit rear axle to match the front samurai width.

Most of the lift is in the tyres
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Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:09 pm 
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I'm loving how mine is at the moment... Had a fe stages but I'm having the most fun now it's reluable(touch wood)

I have lowered it and am now running 2" rears with stick shackles and 2" rears up front with extended shackles!

Big guard chop

6.5s

Dual lockers

Rebuilt motor

Chromos

And 34s....

Got power steering ready to go on but unsure if I will do it.... It's just simple and heaps of fun and I did a snow drive where we drove 14 hours pretty much straight with out a hassle....

If I was to get another I think I would go straight to this again and skip all the parts of playing around with ideas and stuff from the word go...

I would maybe even keep stock suspension and cut the guards major and put jeep jk flairs on... Me daves4wd and rpm have sorta sized them up and think it would work......

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Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2008 11:30 pm
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Location: Geelong
Vehicle: JK Jeep, Sierra & Raptor

Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:56 pm 
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I've gotta spare set of jk flares in the shed nath. They would look sweet cut up as a set of flat flares...

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Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: Wollongong NSW
Vehicle: LWB Sierra & XL7

Post Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 3:53 pm 
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With my LWB ute I've gone with Dank's 65mm EFS spring lift mainly to help maximize flex, "virtual lift" cut the front guards as much as possible yet still keeping it look standard by using the WT flares and by retaining the front indicator.

I did fit a 2" bodylift but have decided against it, I have a jimny manifold to fit onto the G16b so It clears the bonnet. I bought the BL second hand so it's not a big loss. I also have extended shackles that I may or may not fit as I want to keep it as low as possible.

Other mods I've done is extended chassis for RUF
60L fuel cell
Cromo CV's
F&R WT Diff conversion w/diff bracing
ARB air locker
6.5 reduction gears
Vitara vented disc brake upgrade
33" muddies
Soon to order cromo rear axles & rear disc brake conversion

Just need to bang it all together, get it wired up and then I'm ready to drive over roundabouts :)

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Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm
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Post Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:16 am 
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The ultimate internet build needs Leaf spring sliders.
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2009 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:01 pm 
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And xrox bar and lots lightbars

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:48 pm 
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needs moar 1lt jeep grill if you want it to be the ulitimate build.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 1:41 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
needs moar Mahindra grill if you want it to be the ulitimate build.


In before ZF Armsup

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:10 pm 
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i have been wheeling and building zooks for just on 10 years now..
Honestly simplicity is key..
Good gearing, Lockers and good rubber!
Spend less time building it and more time wheeling it!

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:53 am 
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Anyone got any tech on those leaf spring sliders or are they just a wank. I feel like they would bind up with shit pretty easy.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:05 am 
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They look like a fancy drop shackle. If your wheel drops in a hole and the slider falls to top extension so the tyre touches the ground it is the same as a drop shackle opening up. There's still no downward force on the wheel because it is hanging there. I think it would reduce capability but increase ramp flex.

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