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foolishme83
Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2013 1:09 pm Posts: 45
Vehicle: 1985 SJ51T
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 Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:20 pm |
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Hi Guys I'm about to change my uni joints. I've read up a bit and I'm planning on using some sockets and a hammer. I don't really want to buy a press and don't have a welder to make a press either. Are there any tricks to doing them or is it simply bash em out and bash the new ones in?. Cheers 
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Brenno
Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 987 Location: Hobart
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 Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:29 pm |
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Got a big vice? That's the easiest way without a press.
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foolishme83
Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2013 1:09 pm Posts: 45
Vehicle: 1985 SJ51T
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 Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:44 pm |
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How big a vice do you mean?
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12997 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:48 pm |
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About 6". Big enough to fit the uni in with sockets lined up to use as a press.
I have a 6" vice but prefer to use a mash hammer. I reckon I get a better feel go how they are going in with a hammer.
I've changed countless unis trackside with hammers, sockets and rocks as workbenches. It's not hard.
Steve.
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jono165

az supporter
Joined: Thu May 27, 2010 12:01 pm Posts: 834 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:46 pm |
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I have a press but for uni joints its much easier/quicker to just use a hammer, couple of blocks of whatever it lying around and a socket. Even the factory manual used a hammer.
Just be careful getting them started to not dislodge the needle rollers inside.
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12997 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:51 pm |
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Teracis
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:03 pm Posts: 2261 Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: Daisy
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 Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:32 am |
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I've used a hammer and sockets heaps of times, I've trashed 3 doing it that way, used the bench vice at work last time and it was much easier. Just be very careful of the rollers
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foolishme83
Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2013 1:09 pm Posts: 45
Vehicle: 1985 SJ51T
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 Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:14 pm |
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Thanks Guys. I've got 6 to do lol so I'll try the hammer and the vice  On another note to change the input bearing on my transfer case do I need a press or a puller or does it just slide off?
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Blakey
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2012 6:11 pm Posts: 464 Location: Brisbane, Petire
Vehicle: Jimny 3"lift Flares 31's
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 Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:43 pm |
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foolishme83 wrote: Thanks Guys. I've got 6 to do lol so I'll try the hammer and the vice  On another note to change the input bearing on my transfer case do I need a press or a puller or does it just slide off? press or puller would be best. its a bit hard to hammer a bearing off. it should be easy to get out of the case but off the shaft it will be press or puller to get it off.
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losfer

az supporter
Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 977
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 Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:16 pm |
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why would you want to pull your transfer apart to change the front input bearing ? its usually the lay shaft that wears , and if the input bearing is shagged then you may as well replace all the ball rollers in there and check the main shaft where the 2 big needle rollers go to make sure it isnt fucked.
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Blakey
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2012 6:11 pm Posts: 464 Location: Brisbane, Petire
Vehicle: Jimny 3"lift Flares 31's
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 Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:24 pm |
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I'm guessing the input bearing can wear easy if the case is improperly shimmed as the input shaft usually needs shims or it had in/out movement. Meaning the outer race of the bearing is loose in the housing. Buy usually to save yourself pulling it apart twice do a full rebuild on your transfer only takes a day to do if you have a press. And have never rebuilt a case before.
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foolishme83
Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2013 1:09 pm Posts: 45
Vehicle: 1985 SJ51T
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 Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 5:44 pm |
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Thanks for everyone's input. I learn so much from AZ
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