onetoomany wrote:
Steve, all due respect, but if you felt that this conversion was pointless/unfeasible would it really hurt to jot down another couple of sentences explaining why you feel that way? After all, this is the n00b thread, correct? Just some food for thought.
onetoomany wrote:
I've researched the sh*t out of this topic enough to know that it can be done
That's why I didn't list the problems I have with diesel converting a Jimny. If you've researched as hard as you claim to, I was sure the disadvantages of a diesel conversion would be clear, and you'd come to the conclusion that it's still desirable. Me chiming in with my 2c worth isn't going to change your mind.
However, as you've asked:
I think that diesel converting a suzuki is based on a few false premises
Diesels are reliable, mechanical, and economical…
Many small diesels aren't designed for longer service life than the equivalent petrol. All VW engines are designed for the same major overhaul life - 300,000km.
Few small diesels made since the Jimny was produced are mechanical. Many are electronically complex - Much more complex and sophisticated than a Jimny EFI petrol, especially a G series motor. They are also very dependent on clean fuel with absolutely no water in it.
Modern common rail diesels, when properly geared, can be very economical. That's not always the case for older mechanical motors though, especially if they are turbocharged. However, that's assuming that fuel economy is the only form of economy that's important. Diesels are VERY expensive to buy, more expensive to service, and replacing turbochargers and fuel pumps, as an example, can be very prohibitive, even more so if the engine is tuned or requires parts that aren't available in Australia. Damaged vitara and Baleno G16B donor cars are regularly being sold for $600-800. That makes it pretty hard to justify the cost and complexity of a Diesel swap IMHO.
I don't like modern EFI and diesels aren't afraid of water…
See above for the complexity of modern diesel EFI, and there's far more electronic connections and sensors in a modern diesel than a petrol motor. And whilst an old mechanical diesel won't care too much about being in water, they are far more sensitive to water in the intake. A teaspoon of water will destroy a diesel- not generally a problem with a petrol.
Some specifics:
There is no feasible, australian delivered, small, modern diesel that can be made to fit. The VW diesel was never sold in Australia with a mechanical pump, they are all TDi, which are very complex electronically. Converting one of these to a mechanical pump requires a bunch of parts that, again, aren't readily available in Australia. I think it was FZ that was chasing a TDi caddy from a damaged auction and it went for $6.5K. Add the conversion parts and driveline upgrade parts and that's one
really expensive conversion.
You could import a Jimny with a Renault Diesel for sure, but these motors look to be nothing special in my opinion power and torque is very low. They are also electronically complicated, you'll have the only one in the country, and it will get annihilated for performance by an M18 engined car. I also suspect there are some tricky transfer gears or such to get the revs down to suit the diesel and that means there more awesome unique/impossible to get parts. Remember too, these cars weren't built because they are awesome, they were built because in some European countries, fuel prices mean there is almost no market for petrol vehicles.
Diesel torque is going to be very hard on the glass jimmy driveline, as is the weight of the diesel block. Front end life will be a problem. As you are talking about 31" tyres, you're really going to be pushing the front end way, way beyond its safe limits. The front housings bend stock.
Let's throw around some rough numbers. To achieve reasonable road performance, I guess you'd want a diesel that puts out 60-70Kw. At that power figure, a decent diesel is going to putting out around 200Nm, maybe more. It's also going to be doing it a very low revs. (My new DD has peak torque in at 1200rpm)
Putting 200+Nm into a gearbox designed for 100Nm, while it's only turning at 1200rpm is going to be murder on it, especially 5th gear. Blowing jimny gearboxes is going to get annoying too.
If you are able to get cruise revs down, lets say to 2000rpm, (and I have no idea how that is possible) you're going to want to do that in a way that doesn't equally reduce off road gearing., because diesel or not, Jimny's are already too tall geared off road. This has nothing to so with the torque band of the motor, it has everything to do with how fast you want to drive an obstacle, and what speed you want to go to maintain control. So id you lower gearing to allow off road control, but also have twice the torque, what is that going to do to the axles? We have a Jimny engined car in the club that broke a full float EN-26 axle with 100Nm and 63:1 gearing. 63:1 gearing isn't even all that low, and the auto softens out the hits to the driveline. How do you reckon a Jimny is going to go with 63:1 and 200+Nm?
If you want a diesel for long distance touring ponder this - I'd guess a converted diesel is going to weigh about 100kg more than a stock jimny. That drops you to 250KG of payload, and if you add a bar and/or winch, you're likely to already have the front end way over maximum axle load. In short, Jimny's already end up miles over GVM when packed for a long trip. The added weight and stress a diesel is going to place on the car will make it a less reliable car, not a more reliable one. Heavy jimny's already suffer from a number of borderline components and failures, and that's with 100Nm. A diesel isn't going to make any of those better, only worse.
All up, I think they are a terrible idea. It might be a fun project to build one, but by the time you've burnt all that money and time, it's quite possible the end result won't be any better than a Jimny with a M15 or G16, all things considered.
If you really want a long distance touring, diesel car that's reliable and runs 31's, you need a hilux, not a $10K+ engine and mechanical conversion.
Steve.