[Fatzook]

murpha86 wrote:

Thanks Brett. Rough idea any ways. I hear your skepticism fatzook but im going to try this and if it works great if not ill get the loom n ecu n go from there. from what other ppl hav done with 20 to 25 swaps I dont really see why the 27 wont work or at least worth a try.

I wish you all the best. ( genuinely )

[Stuey]

Hmmm, what a good idea. Maybe someone should do this swap....... Oh wait......

[murpha86]

really stuey??? wana come help me?? lol im in rocko

[royce]

Fatzook wrote:

murpha86 wrote:

also if any one knows what AF ratio I should be after that would be great too.

Stoich.

Terrible advice and will run like shit!
Also too rich doesnt cause detonation

in real world you would want richer than 13.0 when accelerating, I would be more inclined to try and fit some kind of detonation warning, all the fuel in the world wont help if the ignition advance is off.

Really I would consider very hard getting the right ECU in , its not likely going to be too hard to make up a conversion loom for the h27 stuff and merge it into the car, if just for the fact it will cruise and idle and run at light throttle much much better

[JrZook]

^^ this guy!

[murpha86]

Exactly. thats why I said 14.7 seamed rich n then I was told 10 or 11 fot accel but thats too lean. its ok I think I will go for the 27 ecu n make up a conversion loom or something.

Update: the motor I bought was a bit more work than I thought n the wrecker "left" the clutch on (good bloke except there was a total of 2 bolts holding the pressure plate and 1 1/2 holding the flywheel.) I had tp swap the water lines/pipes as the 2l and 2.7l are different shape and I didnt get the lower water pipe. I also didnt get Spark plugs!!!! wtf who takes $20 spark plugs out of a motor??? any way I have all the 2l accessories on the 2.7l now n the motor back in the car.

Bonus: h20 had brand new clutch n spigot bearing they are exactly the same so put that on.

Will finish rest next week then try to fire up.

Is a 5/30 synthetic oil the recommend for these aswell??

[bigrig91]

I use a 5w 40 it helps to prevent the timing chain gumming up apparently.

[fordem]

This is the first time I'm hearing that the timing chain "gumming up" is a problem.

[Rhinoman]

The H20/H27 uses an airflow meter so as long as the meter matches the ECU you should get the correct mixture. Its not going to be ideal but if you can get away with a G13BB ECU running a G16B motor or a M13 ECU running an M15, both of which are MAP based, then its quite likely that the H20 ECU will cope reasonably well.
I'd start with all H20 parts, including injectors and then if you're struggling with fuelling at WOT then go to the 2.7 injectors and see if your fuel trims pull the mixture back in.

[Stuey]

^^^^^^ what he said!

My mutant is a 2.7 block and head, H20A inlet manifold (with all relevant sensors etc) mated to a H20A ECU. The vehicle was initially configured with 2.5L injectors but this overfuelled terribly returning around 20L/100km. Would run rough, stall at lights etc. Reverted back to 2.0L injectors, now runs perfectly. Returning 11.0-12.0L/100km (and that's with all the roof rack & spotty drag I have in the roof along with 31s etc). Fuelling was tested with wideband sensors and falls within spec. Spark plugs also show normal wear. The 2.0 ECU is simply compensating for the larger capacity by upping the fuel. I think 2.7 injectors is a bad idea unless you are doing a full H27A conversion (ECU, sensors... the whole box and dice).

[murpha86]

thanks for the info stuey. Thats what im going with now. ill have it ready to fire up this week so fingers crossed its all good.

How do u find the extra cc's? is it noticeably better power? and urs auto or manual?

[Stuey]

Mines a manual, but its also a short wheelbase. Power to weight wise it's terrific as a result. Plenty of grunt with respect to the car. It's no V8, but to me the car feels like it has the power it should have been made with originally. Power to overtake, power offroad, power to tow etc. Admittedly it's also pretty rapid now for a 4x4

[murpha86]

Sounds good mate. ok im stuck. its all back together but wont fire. I have new plugs and I cant find any things not pluged in. its deff back together (appart from exhaust) battery fine I have it jumped from my kizashi . its turning over with out any dramers but does sound slightly off? like one piston my hav issue but nothing to nasty? I did find some small half moon shaped bits in the sump when I cleaned it? kina like small bushes or bearing cases but smallee than a finger nail. any ideas? ? ill try to post a pic

[tanshi]

that doesnt sound good. REFUND!!!

[murpha86]

yer idk. it does sound ok turning over. good enough that it should start any way

[tanshi]

the half moons sound like colletts that hold the valves in in some engines to me

[ninjamoses]

Sounds like you've left something unplugged if it wont fire at all? Is it getting spark? Crap it the sump doesn't sound good though.

Did you have the car running with the dead H20A (ie. so you know all the accessories/electrical work)?

[murpha86]

Yeah H20 was runing....well till its died lol. The only thing i havent swaped is the crank angle sensor on the back of the far right cam when your looking at it. Im only asssuming thats a crank angle sensor im happy for some one to tell me other wise. Is is possible they are different units and not sending the fire signal to the coil packs?

Where i bought it from (suzi shop in beckenham) said they had run it up and it was a good motor (how long ago idk and it had been sitting for a while...)

Im trying to up load the pic of the stuff in the sump but its too big so im tryng to work out how to resize lol

[tanshi]

if its on a cam its a cam angle sensor. that would definilty cause issues if its not hooked up

[ninjamoses]

I'd be swapping it over and trying the H20A one. Be warned they are torx head bolts and are a bit of a prick to remove.

I used the one off my H25A when I put in the H27A.

[murpha86]

http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/Sean_ ... 7.png.html

This is the sump stuff. Please let me know if it cant be viewed.

[murpha86]

Yer ok ill go try to get em out.... they have the same plug i ges i was hopeing they would be the same lol.... Wish full thinking

[tanshi]

they look 99% like valve collets.

[murpha86]

Ok so i changed the cam angle sensor and she fired up first go. Sounds like a motor with valves being crushed inside.......

took a clearer pic of the bits and sent it to a mechanic mate and he said they are valve collets and i stared it for him on the phone and he said it was not good!

SOOO now i need to call the joint and get another one or a refund........ NOT HAPPY! Especialy when the guy said he ran it up and that it was a "good" engine..... sounds worse than the one i pulled out!

I really don't want to have to do it all again.....

[bigrig91]

That sucks big time man. Now i see how lucky i was getting mine to start first turn of the key. You put alot of trust in the wreckers and alot of them are pretty wild sort of people. Goodluck man try and get some of ya money back as well as a new donk. Up here in qld the 2.7's were going for around $1500-1800 when i was looking.

[Chop]

Seems to be common getting lemons from perth wreckers.

[ninjamoses]

Sucks to hear mate, the first one I got had a dropped valve also (and funnily enough was described as a healthy running motor also...)

I was lucky enough to find out before I put the motor in. Can only imagine how pissed off you are.

[murpha86]

is fixing it a cyclinder head off type of job???

[fordem]

It's more of a replace the entire engine type of job - if the valve collets are not there to hold the valve it drops into the cylinder, you turn the engine, over the piston comes up, traps the valve, bends it, and in the process makes a mess of the cylinders and head - it's not as simple as putting them back where they belong, there's probably a lot of damage as a result of them being loose - you might be able to bore the block and reuse it, but you're probably looking at new heads, new valves, new pistons.

There's also the question of how did they get loose - it's something that's extremely unlikely to happen without someone going in there, and you have to ask what else did they do or not do - so if this is an engine you just bought, it's time to send it back for a refund (I wouldn't even trust them to send a working replacement.

[murpha86]

thats what im thinking. bastards! f@#k!!! >:( I really have no choice then..... anyone know somewhere in perth (soutg of perth is best) I could get another one from? Somewhere not shit n doddgy?