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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:44 pm 
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I have a bit of bother. After removing Lockie's rear axle only half of the outer bearing case came out leaving the other half in the axle housing.
Has anybody had this happen to them before? How did you go about getting it out? Thought I'd ask before going medievil on it. :twisted:

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HD Rear axles required too I think.
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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:25 pm 
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Happened to me once, and almost happened a couple of other times. I have since wiped it out with wet and dry to stop it binding in there.
I used a cold chisel to fracture it some more, and it fell apart. Make sure you don't damage the bearing seat.
Its really hard and brittle, so wear glasses.

As per axles, mine looked like that when I first did bearings on my car, a while later they were straight again, and haven't changed. And I'm much harsher to my car now, than earlier.


Last edited by jdk81 on Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:25 pm 
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You could possibly get a die grinder in there and very carefully cut in in opposite sides then fold it in on itself. Like make it a semicircle if you get me. Then it should collapse.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Oh, and shove a rag down the axle tube to prevent chunks getting in there.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:51 pm 
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Thanks guys that gives me something to work on tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:55 pm 
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STOP!!!

1st photo bottom to top goes locking collar (interferance fit/cut it off) ... bearing/ inner race (on axle) / ball bearings and cage/ kinda poked looking outer (all 1 piece orig) then the bearing retainer/ drum mounting surface/ that plate with 4bolts..

2nd one on the outside its a seal, with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer collapse the edge and flick it out... that rear portion is some sort of factory thing to possibly flick oil somewhere back towards the diff. not sure if essential but plastic from memory / again filck out to clean

3 looks fkd. can I ask NT or WT and tyre size? I hear the NT axles are stronger but cannot confirm.




Is it just me or is it raining bearing problems?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:02 pm 
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as for removing in photo 1, 125mm grinder with a 1mm wheel is my pick with a chisel and hammer towards the end. some use a gas axe. I bet your axles have nick marks under the bearings - all the ones I have done had......

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:04 pm 
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Ace wrote:
STOP!!!

1st photo bottom to top goes locking collar (interferance fit/cut it off) ... bearing/ inner race (on axle) / ball bearings and cage/ kinda poked looking outer (all 1 piece orig) then the bearing retainer/ drum mounting surface/ that plate with 4bolts..

2nd one on the outside its a seal, with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer collapse the edge and flick it out... that rear portion is some sort of factory thing to possibly flick oil somewhere back towards the diff. not sure if essential but plastic from memory / again filck out to clean

3 looks fkd. can I ask NT or WT and tyre size? I hear the NT axles are stronger but cannot confirm.




Is it just me or is it raining bearing problems?


can you not see the bit of broken bearing race still in the diff in the 2nd pic:?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:11 pm 
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WT axles running 235/75-R15 with autolocker.

Replacing wheel bearings are not the issue done it about a dozen times, just never had the outer case split before.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Didnt look too close - stuff a rag in the housing antisplatter the rest and run a mig bead around the inside of the race. As it cools it will pull it in and come out a piece of piss alt weld a small bit of steel across it same principal and either lever it out or use it for a home made slide hammer jobbie.


Weld will also make it brittle to smash if you felt like it

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