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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:19 am 
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Hey guys,

I just ordered a 2" body lift from greg on here,

I watched "Pimp my vit" on 4x4 tv, and they installing the body lift looked a little complicated. It was saying you have to move parts of the engine ect...

Questions are:

How hard is it really?
Can i do it in 2 days? (weekend)
Do i need to take all wires out through the engine bay?
Do i need to buy all new parts like the vid said (Fuel hose, brake lines - ect)

Would it be better if i paid a shop to put it in?

Thanks,

Sam

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:49 pm 
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how mechanically minded are you & what sort of tools/workshop do you have access to?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:54 pm 
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I did the lift easyish, (first time ever doing a lift)

I have 1 trolly jack, axel stands, 4 bottle jacks, rattle gun. and all the standard stuff (spanners ect)

depends how much is in it

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:17 pm 
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i say go for it.

personally i use a large hydraulic bottle jack instead of a trolley jack as they tend to lift in an arch even though they're on wheels. the instructions are alright, some bits are a bit vague though... get the instructions & walk through each step looking at the car & you'll be able to see what needs to be done/moved/undone etc. :wink:

front & rear bars will need to be remounted, rear is easily done with 50mm box section, front depends if factory bumper or front bar?

transfer leavers need adjusting, i suggest extending the transfer leaver & bending the gear lever, there was a fair bit of current info floating around on gearsticks as someone was asking about it recently.

i've never bodylifted a G16 vit so not really clear what needs to be done in the engine bay but i do know the intake pipe/air box needs to be reworked to get it to line up.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:26 pm 
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Thanks for the help as always :)

With the transfer leaver, how would i extend it? (would a car shop aka super cheap have parts?)

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:29 pm 
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piece of 2-2.5" long round bar the same diameter as the lever welded to it & drilled & tapped to take the screw in the back of the nob for the transfer lever.

some people just flip the rubber boot so it goes down into the trans tunnel, personally i don't like it as it looks unfinished... but that's just me. :?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:44 pm 
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Yeah... i cant weld :/

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:18 pm 
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So i called around just to get some quotes on how much it would cost..

Results..

5 places wont do it (including ARB)
the one place that will said $1500 and 2 days... O.o

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:19 pm 
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Fuck that, DIY. Where are you again? Extending/modding levers is fairly straightforward, but you do need to find someone to cut and weld.

Otherwise nothing needs doing in the engine bay that I can remember.

Unhook brake lines and remove shifter boots before you start, and loosen the clamps on the fuel filler hose.

I took a few pics of when I did mine, they're early on in my build thread.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:26 pm 
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DarkHorse wrote:
Fuck that, DIY. Where are you again? Extending/modding levers is fairly straightforward, but you do need to find someone to cut and weld.

Otherwise nothing needs doing in the engine bay that I can remember.

Unhook brake lines and remove shifter boots before you start, and loosen the clamps on the fuel filler hose.

I took a few pics of when I did mine, they're early on in my build thread.


yeah $1500 is a bit steep... they mod all the bullbars, (repaint the bar) include that body lift kit ect... but WAY to much :O

Yeah, might flip the boot on the tranny leaver for now,

Ill check out your thread :)

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:27 pm 
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oh and im in canberra

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:29 pm 
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What they all said. :) And I'll second the screw paying someone, it isn't that hard and is a good opportunity to learn about the car.

In addition, if it is anything like the SV Vits you can get away without bending/extending gear levers.

For the transfer stick on my SV all I had to do was trim the bottom of the gear knob. Sounds ridiculous I know, but this allowed the rubber boot to sit up higher on the gearstick so it wasn't as compressed as before - solving the issue of it jumping out of gear.

For the gearstick instead of bending the lever all I did was chop the trans tunnel a bit. Pretty sure I've got pics somewhere in my old thread if you go searching. I couldn't select 2nd/4th/reverse once I had the lift in, so took about 15 - 20mm or so out of the trans tunnel and shift boot bracket. Piss easy to do and again solved the issue without having to bend or extend the lever.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:12 pm 
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guess ill just have to give it ago haha
Just hoping i dont have to change anything within the engine

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:23 pm 
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I'm 90% certain I didn't change anything under the bonnet.

You'll probably have to trim the tunnel and the boots (inner ones especially) as Minj said, I had forgotten about that. Beyond that everyone seems to have different experiences! You'll have to do some stuffing around with boots, levers, etc, so as long as you're prepared for that just deal with however it turns out.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:16 pm 
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Samwich wrote:
oh and im in canberra

Any Suzuki clubs in Canberra? Often clubs have members who have already done those sorts of mods to their cars who are all to keen to show someone there handy work!

Hell, any 4x4 clubs down there or anyone to help you out...

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:44 pm 
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mate its pretty easy, no gear stick welding cutting needed for mine which looks to be the same as urs. i did what ninjamoses said and cut the bottom of the shifter knob off....thats it.

no extended lines or hoses.....watch the O2 sensor on the exhaust tho, there is a clamp on the firewall and its gets tight during the lift so just undo it.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:53 am 
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Reubs wrote:
Samwich wrote:
oh and im in canberra

Any Suzuki clubs in Canberra? Often clubs have members who have already done those sorts of mods to their cars who are all to keen to show someone there handy work!

Hell, any 4x4 clubs down there or anyone to help you out...


Nope not a zook club.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:54 am 
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shandy92 wrote:
mate its pretty easy, no gear stick welding cutting needed for mine which looks to be the same as urs. i did what ninjamoses said and cut the bottom of the shifter knob off....thats it.

no extended lines or hoses.....watch the O2 sensor on the exhaust tho, there is a clamp on the firewall and its gets tight during the lift so just undo it.


You got a pic of it??

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 1:52 pm 
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Got the lift :D so i know where 3 out of the mounts are... but these didnt come with instructions? are yous able to tell me where to 2 front mounts are?

I can see the 1 at the very back, 2 on the middle rails, but not the other 2.. just trying to find where they all are before i start.

Also, can i undo 1 side, fit the blocks, then do the other side? or do i need to undo all the mounts on both sides first??

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:49 pm 
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so been reading about this lift and it was ment to come with instructions... >.< i know where 8 blocks go now, but i have 2 other blocks that are smaller then the rest and have no clue where they go :/

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:00 pm 
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spewing greg didn't include instructions... shoot him a pm & see if he can send an electronic copy to you, will make it a bit easier. pretty sure i threw out my instructions the other day. :?

the 2 little blocks & the 2 thin bolts are support blocks that go on the chassis rails about where the rear springs are, there should be a rubber round pad that supports the load area in the back.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:21 pm 
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Very unlike Greg not to include destructions. Yep as atari said, pop him a pm, he will sort it out.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:40 pm 
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yeah all G he sent me through a copy :) just one of those days hahaha

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:39 am 
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I'd never done a lift before and got mine done in about half a day.
We had 2 people, 2 trolley jacks and some wood planks to help get the height as the trolley jacks weren't tall enough extended!
The next day we did my brothers and it only took a few hours as we'd learnt what to do and not do from the first :)

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:38 am 
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So all the blocks have lined up other then the 2nd from the front, drives side
I just can't get the bolt to go straight...
I've tried jacking different ways...

Any suggestions??

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:47 am 
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how far?

loosen them all off & gently ratchet strap it across... find something solid to attach it to & drag it over. i had to do this to the RH rear on the wagon.

you may have bent the body stud, does the block sit flush with the floorpan when pushed up hard?

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:41 pm 
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Thanks man, ended up getting it in with a ratchet strap haha

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:13 pm 
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Kit should come with a ratchet strap :rofl:

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:45 pm 
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Hell yeah it should :)

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