[rpmwrx]

I'm about to install a new transfer case into my sierra with reduction gears. I'm using a mighty kong transfer cradle with roktoy ring welded to it. My question is... should i mount the transfer case using sold alloy mounts or stick with the standard rubber mounts?




I have added a poll question to this so i can get a clear answer...

Please tell me your reasonings behind your answer as well.

Thanks

[jdk81]

Use the factory rubber mounts, and carry spares.

They help isolate vibrations.

And mostly they are the engineered weak point. Shit usually hits the fan when people decide to "beef" these up.
Yes they may cost a little etc... and you might get sick of breaking them. If you beef them up, all you do is push the mode of failure to something far more costly and difficult to replace.

I bet you will regret finding the next weakest link.

[alex]

i say double mount the rubber ones

[shep]

i would use standard mounts because they are a weak point and are easy to change
and cheap. i blow a mount on average every 12 months.

every mount i have broken has broken while i was thrashing the car.

[shep]

is your workshop in a dungeon?

[rpmwrx]

Haha... You could say it is a bit of a dungeon... I call it my man cave... I'm in the process of installing a solar panel system on top of the shed. We had to install a new sub-board but havn't wired up the lights yet. So i'm using a plug in flood light.

Thanks for your prompt comments guys... I will go with the standard rubber mounts...

[SierraDan]

I was thinking the same thing! DUNGEON SHED!

[S13RR4]

Nice bat cave,

also agree with the nominal weak link in your set up, if you know this is the weakest link and its relatively fixable than I'd keep it that way, its not as if it's going to break daily.

and I'd bet the next weakest link if you beef these up isn't going to be so nice to replace.

Joe

[SierraDan]

What about some mount from another car with a slightly stiffer/stronger rubber that could take a bit more abuse but still weaker than solid mounting to keep it as an engineered weak point?

[Teracis]

I thought the standard rubber mounts were supposed to be quite strong, and it's the aftermarket ones that are crap?

Also +1 for using the rubber mounts, I really need to get a roctoy ring and cradle before I break my case or something silly!

I'm planning to use some 50x50 SHS to make a transfer lift so I can still use the standard mounts!

[Gwagensteve]

Neither of the two options you've posted, however, what gearing are you running? (transfer/diff)

If you have 5.12's in the diffs, it's feasible that stock genuine mounts might last OK. (but I don't think I'd run them) if you are taller than that, I'd definitely be going to urethane.

The best rubber mount option are the factory 1.0 mounts - these are through bolted like this:


(Those are from spidertrax and I have installed a set on a car - they're very nice) but in 1.0's they are rubber not urethane.

I don't think I'd run with solid spacers. I reckon the driveline needs a bit of dampening, Also, you have quite steep driveshaft angles, and I don't know if you've played with the jackshaft angle at all but I think you'd get quite a lot of vibration with solid spacers.

Steve.

[jdk81]

SierraDan wrote:

What about some mount from another car with a slightly stiffer/stronger rubber that could take a bit more abuse but still weaker than solid mounting to keep it as an engineered weak point?

That's a decent idea, but what % do you go? What safety factor are we working with? Do we actually know, anyone want to risk blowing 6.5s and xfer case to find out?

[Teracis]

jdk81 wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

What about some mount from another car with a slightly stiffer/stronger rubber that could take a bit more abuse but still weaker than solid mounting to keep it as an engineered weak point?

That's a decent idea, but what % do you go? What safety factor are we working with? Do we actually know, anyone want to risk blowing 6.5s and xfer case to find out?

Aren't the Trail Creeper gears covered under an unconditional warranty or some such?

[alex]

this is what i did:

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... sfer+mount

Mazda mount:

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... sfer+mount

[SierraDan]

Teracis wrote:

jdk81 wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

What about some mount from another car with a slightly stiffer/stronger rubber that could take a bit more abuse but still weaker than solid mounting to keep it as an engineered weak point?

That's a decent idea, but what % do you go? What safety factor are we working with? Do we actually know, anyone want to risk blowing 6.5s and xfer case to find out?

Aren't the Trail Creeper gears covered under an unconditional warranty or some such?

Id say the gears will be fine, but the case or chassis will be fucked having everything bolted solid!

[Gwagensteve]

The consensus seems to be that if the case mounts are well designed and the mounts can't fail the next weak points are the chassis mounts.

If they are strengthened, the next weak point are the unis.

It's not really all that complicated - use spidertrax, or just cruzin' urethane mounts - the consistency of the damping material isn't all that important - it's that there's a through bolt to prevent the mounts being stretched so far they fail.

1.0 sierras use four through bolted mounts from the factory and as a result never break transfer mounts.

Steve.

[SierraDan]

double mounting! i like that idea!

[ajsr]

mine has run solid brass mounts since the day I bolted the gears in.
why brass? its what I had lying around, they are 25 mm taller than the stock mount and bolted through with a 10mm ht fastner and nyloc.
nothing has bent or broken in this time

[MrRocky]

i have used justcruzins mounts for the last 4 years with 6:5's and 1.6mpfi
with lots of right boot and no probs

[tmb99]

I have justcrusin's - they seem the goods and you lift the transfer 1 or 2 inches. Plus you support a site sponsor.

[jonno_racing]

justcrizins ftw. and i am hard on the gear.

[BlueSuzy]

I replaced some mounts recently in a sierra.

The supplier gave me some other different mounts, but they tiny bit taller and look alot stronger. The only problem is, i had to cut one of the studs abit to get it in the 1 mount side in a standard mounted car with no bodylift.

Its a Boonma Engine mount(Brand)
EM-0727
for:
323 sedan 1.3,1.4L 77-81
323 wagon 1.3, 1.5 (rwd)78-86
Front LH and RH mount

[sogone]

shep wrote:

is your workshop in a dungeon?

Alf Stewarts rape dungeon.

[TryHard]

Just to Add to the Convo im not running 6.5s mightKong TransSkid and Solid mounts the bombproof Trailtough ones ....
i Used to bust mounts all the time untill i made solid mounts for it .. and put it in the mighty kong cradle .. the way i see it .. running the bomb proof mounts i know i cant brake the mounts .. but i can brake something else.. and im sure it will require a welder and time to fix ...

if u can get away with rubber mounts run them.. and carry spares ..if not run solid just dont be surpised when it brakes .. its really broken ..

also is there much point running a Rotery Ring around the case in a mighty kong skid ?

[casper]

cantact just cruzing and get his tcase mounts

[Gwagensteve]

TryHard wrote:

also is there much point running a Rotery Ring around the case in a mighty kong skid ?

I don't really like Roktoy rings, but yes there is.

The Mighty Kong only picks up the stock transfer mount points. It's still possible to twist the case and break the mounts.

We always pick up the front output bolts with a tab off the long arm to prevent this when we strengthen the long side arm.

Steve

[rpmwrx]

Ok guys... thanks for everyones input in helping me in my transfercase mounting dilema. The freshly built transfercase with mighty kong cradle with welded and gusseted rocktoy ring is now installed in the zook. I ended up getting a set of Mazda mounts as per alex's thread. They are alot chunkier and stiffer than the standard mounts. I would of liked to install a set of the Spidertrax mounts but time is against me. I'm trying to get the zook back on the road for an upcoming trip. I still may install a set of the Spidertrax mounts, I just want to see how these Mazda mounts go first... And just for the record I found a set of Just Cruizing's mounts in the shed, but went against using them because it would have lifted the transfer case up to high. I already have some pretty serious driveshaft angles and didn't want to make it any worse, plus the transfer cradle mounting holes would of needed to be enlarged with a 25mm hole saw which I don't have. I also had a set of the unbreakable solid alloy mounts which i was using with the coily transfercase. I'm happy with the Mazda mounts, I'm sure they will do the job, but i'll keep my eye on them just to make sure they are performing.

Thanks again to everyone for their quick advice I'll have to update my build thread once i've got the old girl going again... just have to get a custom jackshaft made up and it will be all done.

[jimbo_jones]

bolt right through with washer, rubber, transfer mount, rubber, chassie moun,t rubber, washer.

thats the way I did it no vibrations and never broke a mount and I was running 37's

just cruzin had a good tranfer mount kit 2

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=15518

[stockman]

BlueSuzy wrote:

I replaced some mounts recently in a sierra.

The supplier gave me some other different mounts, but they tiny bit taller and look alot stronger. The only problem is, i had to cut one of the studs abit to get it in the 1 mount side in a standard mounted car with no bodylift.

Its a Boonma Engine mount(Brand)
EM-0727
for:
323 sedan 1.3,1.4L 77-81
323 wagon 1.3, 1.5 (rwd)78-86
Front LH and RH mount

There not stronger. Found out the hard way today. First time off road with these new mounts, first hill, 1/4 of the way up, BANG, left hand mount fail.

Zip ties to the rescue

[stockman]

I should mention stock Sierra with 215 tyres.