[JrZook]

SuziBlu wrote:

Bosch tell us that R is for points.

Royce, we have had this discussion many times, I am no electrical genius, but, I can tell you, my arse dnyo shows that a GT40 over stock wins hands down, widen the gap, the improvement is more marked, increase initial timing, and broom. I cant go as far with my stock coil.

Your ass dyno must be super sensitive!! The initial timing will be making the 'power' change not coil. I can get stock coils to output over a 5cm arc in air, how much more to you need? Twin coils i can increase this airgap to 13cm with a 12v source.

I was told I needed a R style coil in my zook, put it in, was not very happy with the results, put in a non R coil, performance was so far superior that it was chalk and cheese.

Bosch does not rate a GT for a zook, Bridgstone does not rate 35s for a zook, for that matter, nor even 31s, but lots of us run these. Bet suzuki does not rate rear springs for the front either.

I've never seen Bridgstone say the 35's are not applicable to the zuks? DO you have the source? Neither with the rear spring argument. Do you know the possible reason why Bosch don't rate the coil? Its got to do with the stock electronic ignition system. That coil has a lower primary resistance than stock and thus will draw more current. Hence the stock EI module may be running on teh edge of it limit and thus may fail. Hence why its not recommended..

Ill stand my zook and her tune against any.

[royce]

R is for resistor, it says so in the fucking picture above
You sail boats, ive spent plenty of time being paid to fix cars and sell parts, I dont tell you how to tie a know, dont tell me i'm wrong when it comes to this shit cause you are fucking wrong tand spreading internet bullshit.

[SuziBlu]

Ok

Please forsake everything I have so far spoken in this thread.

Ill keep my tune but.

[31zook]

ahh my GT40 didn't give me any moar power.... high lift cam and high comp pistons are different tho....

[SierraDan]

No, they didn't.. It's the tape on the TBI loom giving a large amount of electrical flux insulation.

Cams and pistons are a myth..

[31zook]

SierraDan wrote:

No, they didn't.. It's the tape on the TBI loom giving a large amount of electrical flux insulation.

Cams and pistons are a myth..

you talking to me

[Che]

royce wrote:

Che, yes gas required higher voltage than petrol, but like ive said 700 times now, if it isnt missing its not a problem

It misfires badly if i've gone for a long run, given it a 5 rest and start it up again. I get random misfiring under load and at idle... it's very inconsistent.

Buggered if I know, I just want it fixed. Probably just got worn engine blues.


Insert solution here please __________________

[alien]

i had a problem once on the 1.3 where the leads were corroded (not visibly) and were arcing onto the bonnnet giving me all sorts of weird issues =) you've probably replaced them already though.

are your spark plugs all looking healthy?

[Che]

Spark plugs no older than one month, and no more than 1000k's on them. Leads are about 6 months old - Bosch 8mm super sport something or others. Dizzy cap and rotor I replaced traveling over, there's no movement in the dizzy itself, I have a bunch of carby cleaner to check for vacuum breaches in the carb seals, otherwise all the hoses to and from pass a visual inspection.


I get my recurved dizzy back this week, hopefully my new mixer too. I'll install all this, get it tuned up, and if it's still running like shit i'm driving it to the army barracks to use as target practise.

[alien]

have you taken the plugs out since installing them to see if any are fouled etc???

maybe you can close the gap on the plugs a touch?

maybe the LPG is running lean?

[JrZook]

che_guitarra wrote:

royce wrote:

Che, yes gas required higher voltage than petrol, but like ive said 700 times now, if it isnt missing its not a problem

It misfires badly if i've gone for a long run, given it a 5 rest and start it up again. I get random misfiring under load and at idle... it's very inconsistent.

Buggered if I know, I just want it fixed. Probably just got worn engine blues.


Insert solution here please ignition module as well as the coil could be on there way out. Not a gas related symptom to me

[ajsr]

JrZook wrote:

che_guitarra wrote:

royce wrote:

Che, yes gas required higher voltage than petrol, but like ive said 700 times now, if it isnt missing its not a problem

It misfires badly if i've gone for a long run, given it a 5 rest and start it up again. I get random misfiring under load and at idle... it's very inconsistent.

Buggered if I know, I just want it fixed. Probably just got worn engine blues.


Insert solution here please ignition module as well as the coil could be on there way out. Not a gas related symptom to me

X2 it will be a fauly module or coil
put a standard coil on and see if not it Will be a module

[Che]

OK, noob question... WTF is an ignition module, what does it look like and where is it found on a Sierra?

[SuziBlu]

Inside the dizzy, when you lift the cp, and see two covers that are black, underneath them.

Plugs are a funny thing, just because you replaced them does not necessarily mean that they are good.
I have not seen one for many a year, but old school mechanics use to have plug testers, you pulled your plugs, and one by one installed them, and set them to sparking, then turned up the pressure, many new ones failed, no arc more a scattering of spark.

I had a early V8 that I replaced all my plugs, champion, drove her 600k, Adelaide to Port Lincoln, when i got home, she was running like a hairy goat. Took it to my mechanic, and we tested the plugs, 5 of the 8 were NS.

Never used champion again.

NGK only for me.

Electricity under pressure does some weird stuff.

[SuziBlu]

ajsr wrote:

JrZook wrote:

che_guitarra wrote:

royce wrote:

Che, yes gas required higher voltage than petrol, but like ive said 700 times now, if it isnt missing its not a problem

It misfires badly if i've gone for a long run, given it a 5 rest and start it up again. I get random misfiring under load and at idle... it's very inconsistent.

Buggered if I know, I just want it fixed. Probably just got worn engine blues.


Insert solution here please ignition module as well as the coil could be on there way out. Not a gas related symptom to me

X2 it will be a fauly module or coil
put a standard coil on and see if not it Will be a module

I was of the opinion, if a module worked, it worked, didn't break down as such, same with the coil.

I have been known to be wrong but.

[ajsr]

SuziBlu wrote:

Inside the dizzy, when you lift the cp, and see two covers that are black, underneath them.

Plugs are a funny thing, just because you replaced them does not necessarily mean that they are good.
I have not seen one for many a year, but old school mechanics use to have plug testers, you pulled your plugs, and one by one installed them, and set them to sparking, then turned up the pressure, many new ones failed, no arc more a scattering of spark.

I had a early V8 that I replaced all my plugs, champion, drove her 600k, Adelaide to Port Lincoln, when i got home, she was running like a hairy goat. Took it to my mechanic, and we tested the plugs, 5 of the 8 were NS.

Never used champion again.

although I'm not a champion plug fan, I pulled a flouled plug out of one of my v twin Kohler powered cherry pickers the other day that was the factory fitted champion plugs that had done 15,000 hours since fitting

[SuziBlu]

I agree, there are good and bad everywhere, thats why things carry a warranty.

I have found, less drama with NGK.

i do not believe a working plug is better than another working plug, just that, when I had 5 out of 8 ns, that was it for me.

15,000 hours, wow, consider 10 hours is equal to 1,000k in a car, (in theory,) that is stunning.

On boats we equate 1 hour, to a 100k run in a car.

15,000 hours (theoretically) = 1,500,000ks

[Che]

Geeez, ignition modules ain't cheap

Anyway, i've found the facts I/we need - point #2: http://www.bosch.com.au/content/languag ... ochure.pdf . My spark requirements are ~15% greater than a petrol ignition... so gimmie a 20 - 25,000v system and i'll be happy my bases are covered.


What does an OEM ignition coil punch out?

[ajsr]

che_guitarra wrote:

Geeez, ignition modules ain't cheap

Anyway, i've found the facts I/we need - point #2: http://www.bosch.com.au/content/languag ... ochure.pdf . My spark requirements are ~15% greater than a petrol ignition... so gimmie a 20 - 25,000v system and i'll be happy my bases are covered.


What does an OEM ignition coil punch out?

oem is more than enough for lpg

[Che]

Last Q before I put this to bed - where can I get an OEM coil for less than I can get an MSD coil? Suzistore said $80, seems a little pricey.

[royce]

bosch MEC715 in a transformer coil, BIC715 (memory there, whatever the book says for a G13 swift) for oil filled type

[SuziBlu]

ajsr wrote:

che_guitarra wrote:

Geeez, ignition modules ain't cheap

Anyway, i've found the facts I/we need - point #2: http://www.bosch.com.au/content/languag ... ochure.pdf . My spark requirements are ~15% greater than a petrol ignition... so gimmie a 20 - 25,000v system and i'll be happy my bases are covered.


What does an OEM ignition coil punch out?

oem is more than enough for lpg

OEM is around 15-20,000v, imo does not cut it.

[Che]

OK very very last Q on this - can my dizzy's ignition module be upgraded to be more suitable for an aftermarket coil, or is it a non-interchangeable part?

Spare dizzy is in the shop now waiting on parts, IM will no doubt get replaced anyway when being rebuilt so maybe I could get it all sorted at once?

Like Suziblu says - current system running at peak is OK for my needs, if it drops off any i'm back to where I am now

[ajsr]

che_guitarra wrote:

OK very very last Q on this - can my dizzy's ignition module be upgraded to be more suitable for an aftermarket coil, or is it a non-interchangeable part?

Spare dizzy is in the shop now waiting on parts, IM will no doubt get replaced anyway when being rebuilt so maybe I could get it all sorted at once?

Like Suziblu says - current system running at peak is on the verge of my needs, if it drops off any i'm back to where I am now

Che I belive dave is totally wrong (sorry dave)
go to bursons / repco or the like and buy a standard ign coil for a sierra and bolt it on, you are just wasting your money buying anything else.

I built hot/drag cars for years back in my younger days, with acess to dynos and all the cool shit, your standard ign system will make more than enough spark for lpg.
I used to run a dato 1600 with a 1.8 turbo on straight lpg down at caulder park here in vic at the fortnightly drags every weekend and then drive it to work every day during the week.
this car made 160kw at the wheels and ran dead stock dizzy, module and a oil filled standard type coil. yes it was graphed to suit the turbo and lpg but all stock apart from that.
oh yeah and it ran 12's with a crap old skool cheap shit coil.

as someone said above the stock coil will shoot a 1.5"long spark easily
so a mm or two on your plugs is a piece of piss for it

personally I think the module is likely at fault but a coil is easier and cheaper to start with, but it will be one of the two

[Rockhopper]

che_guitarra wrote:

Last Q before I put this to bed - where can I get an OEM coil for less than I can get an MSD coil? Suzistore said $80, seems a little pricey.

$80 pretty good for an oem coil. I got quoted $150 from my local guy a little while back and he's usually way cheaper than anybody else I've dealt with. From memory, it should come with a little noise suppresor looking type capacitor fitted to it.

[JrZook]

ajsr wrote:

Che I belive dave is totally wrong (sorry dave)
go to bursons / repco or the like and buy a standard ign coil for a sierra and bolt it on, you are just wasting your money buying anything else.

I built hot/drag cars for years back in my younger days, with acess to dynos and all the cool shit, your standard ign system will make more than enough spark for lpg.
I used to run a dato 1600 with a 1.8 turbo on straight lpg down at caulder park here in vic at the fortnightly drags every weekend and then drive it to work every day during the week.
this car made 160kw at the wheels and ran dead stock dizzy, module and a oil filled standard type coil. yes it was graphed to suit the turbo and lpg but all stock apart from that.
oh yeah and it ran 12's with a crap old skool cheap shit coil.

as someone said above the stock coil will shoot a 1.5"long spark easily
so a mm or two on your plugs is a piece of piss for it

personally I think the module is likely at fault but a coil is easier and cheaper to start with, but it will be one of the two

Need a "like" button . Che this is good first-hand info not internet mechanic bs talk. You obviously have an underlying issue that is causing you to think that the stock system is no good on your gas setup. Fix the stock system and you will be a happy man!

[Che]

Che Likes this

I'm coming around... I can't find any hard facts or evidence of coils making a difference, and i've done a fair bit of looking. For Jap cars it seems OEM is always better than aftermarket.

Those ignition boxes might be worth a look in though, but 100 other things to spend money on first.

[SuziBlu]

I have the standard coil that I took off, its working perfect as far as I know.

Its yours for postage if you want it.

[Lokidog]

OK, digging out an old thread. I replaced my coil about 6 months ago on a 95' G13BA engine with a NGK coil U1173 I believe these are to be used with a resistor. NOTE Repco sells both a coil with and without a resistor ie, the U1163 (use without a resistor) and the U1173 (use with a resistor) saying they both fit my vehicle. From what I understand, as the dizzy on a G13BA doesn't have points, I can use the U1163. Would I by using the NGK coil U1173 create issues and cause it to fail as I don't require a coil using a resistor? My Zook started missing intermittently last week. I have replaced the dizzy cap, leads, and plugs. Please note the dizzy and coil were both replaced about 6 months ago when it was running rough. As it was, I needed a carby rebuild which was also done at the same time. Pretty much the Zook has been running sweet for 6 months up till now. Thanks in advance