[TheOtherLeft]

I made a dodgy 1-man bleeder tool and whilst it will suck fluid (from the reservoir and draw fluid to a head of about 2 feet) when I connect it to the bleed nipple I get a lot of air. I even tried using a hose clamp between the hose and the nipple. I think air is seeping past the thread of the bleed nipple.



I then went back to a 2-person bleed and there was no air in the fluid.

I had thought about buying a mityvac vacuum bleeder but if air is getting past the thread will the mityvac experience the same problem?

Is there any way of sealing the thread? I don't really want to use thread tape though.


Yes it looks dodge but it seems to work at sucking...

[Teracis]

Maybe fab up something to seal around the whole nipple, like a balloon or something?

[Brett]

get some small fuel line to slip over the nipple and put a little bit of metal pipe in the plastic and fuel line. no more air leaks.

[royce]

yeah nipple threads arent meant to be sealed

ive always bled brakes by myself, tube on the nipple, other end in a bottle that already has some fluid in it, pump for a bit then let it sit a bit to syphon some and do the bleed up

apparently its common for bike shops when bleeding brakes to drain it then the pump fluid in via the nipple so the system fills from the bottom up, there are machines to do it and all

[TheOtherLeft]

royce wrote:

yeah nipple threads arent meant to be sealed

So how do vacuum bleeders work? How do they seal?

[royce]

simple, they don't work you just keep sucking till you get sick of it and assume its ok or you throw the thing in the bin

[shakes]

royce wrote:

Apparently its common for bike shops when bleeding brakes to drain it then the pump fluid in via the nipple so the system fills from the bottom up, there are machines to do it and all

Shimano, Hayes, and Magura MTB brakes can all be bled like this

[jimbo_jones]

royce wrote:

ive always bled brakes by myself, tube on the nipple, other end in a bottle that already has some fluid in it, pump for a bit then let it sit a bit to syphon some and do the bleed up

yep that how taughttought 10 years ago when I apprentice

[skyman]

So with the jar and one man way of doing it, does the jar and hose need to be above the nipple, or can you just sit it on the ground as long as the hose is covered enough to suck fluid?

[ajsr]

on the ground, but you need enough fluid in the jar to stop it sucking air back in.

[Jester]

ajsr wrote:

on the ground, but you need enough fluid in the jar to stop it sucking air back in.

x2 works really well

[skyman]

Thanks guys I will give this ago. It sure beats the pump the pedal, crack the bleeder, hit the floor, close bleeder, repeat a thousand times method.

[2stroker]

Yeah Royces method is the way to go, I have always done it that way and have only had one vehicle that gave me grief. It was an RX2 rally car, it had inline hydrolic hand brake and rear discs off something else. After playing with it for a day trying to get a firm peddle the previous owner came around and showed me how to do it, he had a spare master cylinder cap with a tyre valve fitted to it, he filled the master cylinder, hooked up an air line set at a very low pressure and pressure bled the fluid through.

[2stroker]

Has anyone tried these.

[skyman]

I haven't because they are not an off the shelf part here, but everyone I know who has them raves about them.

They crack the bleed, pump a few times, and they are done. I really want a set of those badly.

[TheOtherLeft]

2stroker wrote:

Has anyone tried these.

I've thought about this as well...but with a difference. I was going to keep my factory bleed nipple and use a short piece of clear tube (that I use for bleeding) connected to the screw thread part of the Speedbleeder. The tube can then be connected to the factory bleeder and bled like normal. Does this make sense? Do you think it will work?

[skyman]

It will work, there's a guy on one of the US boards that did that, because he didn't want to have to buy four, He just uses one speed bleeder for all the cylinders.