[Mike]

does anyone have pics of what they did with the brackets behind that crap plastic strip under the door of a sierra?
do people remove them or cover them up?

[BlueSuzy]

The plastic mouldings...I kept losing the corner bits one by one

So i pulled them off, The Bracket doovas are spotwelded on, I drilled them off then covered them with a length of checkerplate, But 1st see if there is much rust

[Mike]

they were packed with mud but no rust at all
is there any way of getting them off without drilling wholes in the car?

[BlueSuzy]

There was another thread on here about spotweld drills, and precision grinding the spotwelds flush to the body.

found it http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=2506

[Mike]

crap so no matter what its need a bit of body work once there off?

[BlueSuzy]

Not if you grind them flush, Just clean the body after, Make sure there is no surface bubbles etc, And under coat , sand abit so smooth, then spray black.

Mine had warps and bubbles from the surface rust, so i scraped and wired brushed the rust, then sprayed the body panel, then put the checker on.

[Mike]

how did you attach the checkerplate?

[BlueSuzy]

When i finished drilling them off


When i finished the new plates


My rear plate


The side plates i started by putting them on with stainless countersunk bolts, But they wernt good enough to hold the plates onn as the threads were only into the sheetmetal So i ended up screwing the end corners in to the body and sprayed them black. I also beaded some silicone under the plate to try and stop the rattles, if any . I tryed also to keep it neat, blacked out the screws but left the stainless.

My rear plate is countersunk bolts, stainless again but smaller, and there are nuts on the other side of the tailgate. No screws


I think this should be in fabrication now

[Mike]

i like the back door thing
did you fill in the the holes you drilled?
i found some ready made checkerplate panels and i was thinking of just using sikaflex to stick them on

[BlueSuzy]

The holes i just filled with silicone....Sikaflex may be ok, but i would screw them abit just incase they want to fall off Depends how heavy they are too. Mine are steel...3mm thk

[Mike]

the ones i looked at were alloy and they had a slight bend in them to fit the body they were $125 does that sound alright?

[BlueSuzy]

If its for abit of bling, go alloy Mine are abit of show and abit of armour...

What do you mean by bend? To go underneath abit?

For the price it sounds alright, But talkem down

[MART]

Did the same thing , bunnings checker plate , pop rivets , no rust , too easy , if your going to silicone get a neutral silicone as most are acetic and will cause rust , Cheers Paul.

[Mike]

BlueSuzy wrote:

If its for abit of bling, go alloy Mine are abit of show and abit of armour...

What do you mean by bend? To go underneath abit?

For the price it sounds alright, But talkem down

i can't remember off the top of my head but it either curves towards the bottom of the door a bit or like you said curves under the sill

it think i'd have to paint the black or maybe red

[steve]

ay Mike, I used a grinder and carefull ground away the spot welds that hold the bracket on. That way you don't need to drill holes through the spot welds in to the body. After that i cleaned up the surface with a flapper thing and painted it.

[Pubic]

blues suzy.

if your worried about the thread tapping into your door, we can put NUTSERTS into your door. they are a little insert that crimps up on your sheetmetal door that have a thread inside them.

give me a buzz if you like and ill bring the bits and pieces home one arvo.

[basketcase]

Some pics of mine I removed couple of weeks ago. I am yet to paint. Been a bit slack. Will just be painting the in matt black and putting some sliders there shortly.

[BlueSuzy]

Thats ok Pubic. The bolts seem to be holding in place, havent lost one yet...

Another little problem is the countersunk screws are too big so they bottom out on the 45angle b4 they tighten up

But i will leave them alone.

[Pubic]

thats because your screws are probably M6.. because of the larger dia head they need to be drilled deeper to sit flush. i could get you a couple of cup washers to suit, that way you will still have your countersunk screw but get a decent pull from the screw.

[BlueSuzy]

Try M12 but countersunk fully. It's ok dont worry

[Damo]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Try M12 but countersunk fully. It's ok dont worry

Only M12!!!!! I hope you went high tensile!!!!!

M6 cap screws and nutserts would be the poo. And pop rivets for the povo's

[Pubic]

:O are you serious.......

no wonder they bottom out! they're not screws theyre bolts!

[Damo]

Pubic wrote:

:O are you serious.......

no wonder they bottom out! they're not screws theyre bolts!

I think the steering box bolts are M12

[BlueSuzy]

The 4 shiney M12 stainless bolts aside are

[Pubic]

Damo wrote:

Only M12!!!!! I hope you went high tensile!!!!!

M6 cap screws and nutserts would be the poo. And pop rivets for the povo's

he should have just pinched some of the rivets from the syd harbour bridge....

MAYBE just MAYBE they would be strong enough

[BlueSuzy]

Nah, i think they are ONLY M10. Yes overkill but i was making them to look good, Nothing boring, But abit of armour as well..