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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:01 am 
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I replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my sv620 vitara and thought it do a write up on how to do it. The main reason for doing this is the car has 270 000 klms and i have done 20 000 klms since owning the car and havent touched them. There was a distinct pulse in the peddle as one of the rotors was warped, this caused a massive vibration when braking from high speeds.

Protex brake rotor part #DR158

bendix brake pad part #DB1312/4WD

TOOLS REQUIRED:
wheel brace
17mm spanner or ratchet with 17mm socket
G clamp
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1. Loosen wheel nuts then jack the car up and support with suitable jack stands and remove wheels.
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2. Remove the 2 17mm head bolts holding the brake caliper to the vehicle.
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3. Slide the brake caliper off the rotor and rest it in a suitable spot.
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4. Remove the old brake rotor.
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5. Clean the brake rotor with brake cleaner then install it.
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Next is the brake pads.
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6. Slide the top brake bad ontop down onto the bottom one (ontop of the piston) use the G clamp to compress the pistin to make room for the new brake pads. Also check for any signs of the pistons leaking if they are you will have to get them overhauled.
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7.remove the old brake pads.
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8.install the new brake pads making sure that the spring retainers are in properly.
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9. Slide the brake caliper back on and bolt it back up using the 2 bolts removed in step 2 and tighten bolts.
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10. Clean everything up with brake cleaner and reinstall the wheel.
repeat this for the other side and then lower the car down.

NOTE: Check that your brake fluid has not overflowed if it has clean the brake fluid off with water immediatly and
make sure you pump the pedal a few times before going for a drive.

I wll be doing the rear brakes in 2 weeks so ill add to this thread on how to do the rears.

Inbits


Last edited by inbits on Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:19 am 
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Good write up.

The same steps above can be applied to any disc brake vehicle with floating brake rotors. Learn to do it once and you'd never pay someone to do it again. ;)
And while you've got your head stuck under there, check the brake hose's for nic's, cracks or wear.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:20 am 
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Remember to bed the brakes in after doing this too!

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:24 am 
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Ben_Sierra wrote:
Remember to bed the brakes in after doing this too!


Forgot to mention that as bendix pads don't need to be bed in :cheers:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:27 am 
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inbits wrote:
Ben_Sierra wrote:
Remember to bed the brakes in after doing this too!


Forgot to mention that as bendix pads don't need to be bed in :cheers:


Haha fair call, but to everyone else check the instructions with the pads ;)

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 3:53 pm 
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Just a suggestion ...

Wire brush EVERY trace of rust/corrosion off of the hubs (the mounting face where the rotor sits) before you install the new rotors - if not you can end up with excess "runout" and that can cause a pulsation in the pedal that's very similar to the one caused by warped rotors, and can in fact lead to a warped rotor condition.

Ideally, the new rotor should be checked for runout after installation and if necessary re-positioned on the hub for minimum runout.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:06 pm 
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Do you need to bleed the brakes after this?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:14 pm 
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No need to bleed the brakes unless you undone the rubber lines .
But when you compress the piston it pushes fluid back up to the resevoir and it can overflow, make sure you adjust the fluid level and wash any fluid you spill off.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:50 pm 
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inbits wrote:
No need to bleed the brakes unless you undone the rubber lines .
But when you compress the piston it pushes fluid back up to the resevoir and it can overflow, make sure you adjust the fluid level and wash any fluid you spill off.


Cheers for that. Would it help to siphon out a little fluid and top up when finished?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:54 pm 
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Yeah that would be a wise move if the res is at the full line

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:55 pm 
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truongski wrote:
inbits wrote:
No need to bleed the brakes unless you undone the rubber lines .
But when you compress the piston it pushes fluid back up to the resevoir and it can overflow, make sure you adjust the fluid level and wash any fluid you spill off.


Cheers for that. Would it help to siphon out a little fluid and top up when finished?


Yeah that would help. I have an old basting suringe that I use for that purpose. :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:59 pm 
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Thanks boys. Might have a crack next weekend because the front discs are starting to shudder under heavy braking.

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