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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 12:32 am 
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http://www.protec.com.au/secure/downloa ... id=1001538

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 1:53 am 
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Some people are obviously in the trade and know their stuff, other know what they have read from forums where people who think they know stuff have posted.

I am by no means an expert and I don't claim to be one, I have painted a few cars over the years, these have all been home spray jobs and I have learnt by trial and error. I found that if you take your time you can get reasonable results with quite basic equipment. I have a decent compressor but my spray guns have just been Supercheap ones until recently when I got a good gravity feed gun as a present from my son (he wanted me to paint his car).

I have painted 3 cars in the protec satin camo green, it will stick to anything, cover anything, can be sprayed with anything in fact the tech sheet says preparation is wash with dishwashing detergent and a kitchen scourer. That paint is designed for the military and is basicly fool proof.

This is a home job in acrilic, paint had been on for a couple of years when this was taken.

Image

This is a home job in protec camo green

Image

Home paint job in 2 pack

Image

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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:30 pm
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Location: Katherine

Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:29 am 
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This one was done with green scotchbrite pads and a poxy cheap suction gun.

Turned out quite good.

Stop thinking and over analyzing things and just do it. You will only learn by experience.

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Location: Perth
Vehicle: LPG 1.6 Sierra

Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 7:57 am 
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ball wrote:
Image



Hell yeah!!! That's what i'm talking about :P

Do you remember how much paint you used?

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:55 am 
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I didn't paint it, Laurie did.

I think he only used 2 or 3 litres of paint.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:21 am 
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yeah you should be able to paint a sierra sized car in a color like drab green with 2lt but 3 will kill it with some left for those opps whheling moments :wink:

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Location: Wollongong NSW
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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:48 am 
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I read that he wants to paint the wheels, not the whole car.


1) Use a wire brush or scourer to losen any dirt, or rust.
2) Use some sort of cleaner, degreaser, wheel cleaner, prepsol to obviously clean the wheels
3) mask up any area's you don't want to paint
4) mix the paint to thinner ratio according to the tin
5) and go nuts

Do a few light coats, concentrate on the harder to get to spots, leave it for about 10-15 mins, then do a few more coats.

I used etch primer before using the colour, I used just under 1L of paint and a 2.5Hp air compressor with cheap suction spray gun. If your using spray cans, place them in hot (not boiling) water to build up the pressure inside them for the paint to come out more evenly.

This is the result.

Image

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:51 am 
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So checklist:

1. I'm good to go with my compressor, it's not the biggest but it'll do the job.
2. I need to shop for a spray gun with a 1.5 - 2.0mm nozzle
3. A 4L bucket of paint is plenty for the body, with lots left over.
4. 2 x 1L buckets of black protec for the interior, wheels, bumper, grille...

I know this stuff can go on bare metal but i'm gonna do an all over primer base anyway, just to do a job well done.

When they say it takes a week to dry - i'm assuming that means curing to hardest strength? How long after painting can I be driving around again?

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Location: perth, Australia

Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:58 am 
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che_guitarra wrote:
So checklist:

1. I'm good to go with my compressor, it's not the biggest but it'll do the job.
2. I need to shop for a spray gun with a 1.5 - 2.0mm nozzle
3. A 4L bucket of paint is plenty for the body, with lots left over.
4. 2 x 1L buckets of black protec for the interior, wheels, bumper, grille...

I know this stuff can go on bare metal but i'm gonna do an all over primer base anyway, just to do a job well done.

When they say it takes a week to dry - i'm assuming that means curing to hardest strength? How long after painting can I be driving around again?


sounds good mate,
when i did mine, i was driving around on them the next day, would of been the same day but finished them at nite. just dont drop the wheel nuts when putting them back on (i did this :( )

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:27 am 
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ask them if there is an enamel hardener to suit this product.
if there is it will make it dry faster and will end up harder overall.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 12:10 pm 
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I don't want rusty window sils again, so how do I get these coloured window bits off for the spray?

Do these parts have particular names?... red is supposed to indicate the internal sil section and the yellow the external sil - no clue what you'd call the green part.


Image

Looks like a cunnava job, I can't figure how it's all held together - clearances are minimal to say the least. I never worked out how to get the window out either.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:31 am 
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Bit of a dig.
Anyone know what the brands do the matt camo green in a pressure pack?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 7:21 am 
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protec

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 7:30 am 
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Coolio.
Anyone know the part number?

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