[seanzook06]

I'm looking to do Ruf sometime in the near future, and I have looked a bit into an eliptic spring setup.
the idea is I would use half of the old sierra fronts on each side to create a small chassis extension.
run 2 inch extended shackles at a nearly flat position to keep the car low.
I am also going to be running a panhard rod, because I will already be running a really softly sprung setup and I am sure an elliptic setup would only create more problems with the diff staying centred.
I have already done a substantial amount of work to the rear of the car, but I want the front suspension to have more travel than the rear, in order for it to work harder on climbs.
also I am not concerned about legality, because my rig is already illegal.

just to further clarify the rear suspension work, I have inboarded the rear springs by 100mm on each side, I am running bumpstops inboard of the chassis, and relocated the spring hanger back in order to run 2 inch extended shackles. I am running OME leaves in the rear, with a 3 leaf pack with the spring clips removed. the car is sitting very low, and I intend to keep it low. I also intend to put a panhard rod in the rear

any advice would be appreciated, thanks

[Gwagensteve]

I don’t recommend doing this. Whilst 3/4 elliptic is better than a folding shackle, it still suffers from weight transfer, hop and unwanted opening up. You really don’t want this in the front- under hard brakes the spring will open up, making the front of the car lift and caster to disappear, making run car pull left and right. It will also make an anchor when it’s opened up off road.

There are fabrication issues too. You’ll need to inboard the springs and then get the 3/4 to clear the steering box and pitman arm at full RH lock.

I did front 3/4 elliptic in the late 1990’s with a reverse shackle, which is safer and has less negative effects on handling, but the whole thing didn’t make enough difference to capability to pursue it.

Inboard the springs and run a conventional RUF. It will work fine. The key to making the car work on climbs is have low front roll stiffness. This isn’t the same as having more flex, they’re different.

[seanzook06]

Thanks for the advice, it was just a random idea that I had never seen on the front of any car, I don't want to run a shackle reverse, I don't really see the point I'm it, even if it does allow a 3/4 elliptical spring. Looks like conventional Ruf is the go

[MUD-PIG]

I had it on the rear of a NT Sierra years ago with SPOA. It was rarely used off-roading as I had to get out and pull the pins, front and rear diff locks made up for any lacking travel. I also used a upper control arm to stop it rolling over and bending the top leaf. I mostly pulled the pins out to win RTI ramp days against massively lifted cruisers and Patrols for fun.

[Gwagensteve]

Rear can work really well. Front is nowhere near as straightforward.