Nice work Nik and 31. You've motivated me to start designing a track bar for my SWB. I spent a couple of hours yesterday (the boss paid me for it off course lol) sketching and have come up with a couple of designs.

Geez way to put the pressure on man. I've been trying to think outside of the box. I've basically just drawn a diff from back, top and side and then drawn the motions that I think need to be present whilst still being able to control the antiwrap. One thing I've been trying to work out is where to get a factory built non-splined slip joint so that I can get slip and rotation in the same joint. I realise you can do this by running a larger bore pipe over smaller but I'd like something with better tolerances than that. The only thing I could think of that is kind of like that is a shock absorber that is shot (no rebound). Problem is any car shock I've seen doesn't take to lateral loads too well. So then I started thinking of maybe a shock from an industrial or agricultural application. But I don't know anything about that area but what I do know is I crashed my Ninja into a van without bending the forks.... So now I'm toying with the idea of a single front fork from a trail bike. The other thing I thought of was a rear drive shaft from a hilux (which I have a spare). The cardinal joint (fixed to the cross member) gives the rotation while the splined slip joint gives the slip. That would be a bit bulky though Its a lot of trouble just because I don't want a shackle in there hehe.

So now everyone can have a laugh at all the ridiculous ideas going through my head. lol. The above doesn't really help you with the two designs I've come up with. I've done one that is along the lines of a standard bar that runs forward to a cross member. I've also done one that goes vertically from the diff to a crossmember. I'll try to do an understandable sketch, or newb cad of each later and post them up.

I'll have to get my hands on a McPherson strut and check it out.

Damo, of all the things to go the basic route on you choose the track bar which has to go through a pretty complex range of motion lol. My rear flex is bad enough without putting something else in to bind it up more. I'll definitely be trying to get mine working on paper before I crack the welder out. I tell you what. I'll design the anti-wrap bar, you design me a quick disconnect sway bar set.

hey guys i dont know much about anti wrap bars, but i did a google search in images for anti wrap bar and found this setup on a fj 40, it looks pretty good. it also looks like it solves any major binding with the, um dont know what they are called-- the ball joint type thingys.
here is the link, the pic is down the page a little
http://www.orlandsubway.net/erickards/Suspension.html

look at how Bruce fixed his spring wrap problems, works great

Link? Couldn't find it in Casper's members thread.

Maybe he just took his rear drive shaft out hehe

Oh. For a minute there I thought Royce had some actual tech input. I should have known better

all I am saying is some of the problem has already been described, most sierra rear springs are jsut too soft

something I have thought for a while is whilst you get spring rate that looks good in the driveway on some milk crates always seems to end up wallowing on climbs and leaning funny turning down ruts, I used to run pretty stiff springs and now Bruce has OME heavies with an EXTRA leaf in them, climbs well, dropping down holes the stiff rear forces the front to flex and not the whole thing rock into it

SPUA you shouldnt really need a track bar... the reason i needed it is cos my leaves are dead flat - and im now only running 1 main leaf and half the 2nd leaf (just the military wrap half) - so there aint much spring to stop it wrapping.

im sure you could run it upside down, but you'd have to think about how to re-work the bumpstops and avoid the shackle/bar hitting the chassis on compression.