[boostedbrick]

Just a quick write up on rebuilding your swivel hubs. No deconstruction pictures as i didn't want to cover the camera in shit. I used a kit i purchased off ebay. The scraper and felt were of better quality then the lowrange kit i used last time. If anyone has anything i should add to the post or change let me know...

Externally this diff was pretty rusty. Mainly around the swivel hubs, everything was soaked in a tub of degreaser for a few days and scrubbed clean. Then the bulk rust wire wheeled of, rust converted, etch primed and painted.

1..
I replaced the carrier bearings as the centre had none. Put a good layer of sticky red shit on the housing and bolted it down.


2..
Stick your new axle seals in.


3..
Stick the new kingpin bearing races in. I use a bit of wood for the first hit to get it in, then just whack it down with a plastic mallet.



4..
Stick your felt on, then rubber?

Id also like to add, that the FSM states replacing the rubber seal regularly. It IS a servicable item. It tells you to cut the new seal in one place, to fit it and place the cut portion to the top side, 30 degrees off the matching face of the oil seal retainer.



5..
Lube up your CV with some fresh moly grease. Pack as much into it as you can, fill the inside of the knuckle with a quantity of grease. Insert CV all the way in. Grab you kingpin bearings, lube well and sit them in.



6..
Grab your king pins and required shims. Check your service manual for info on what shims you need. I added some sticky red shit to either side of the shims, stuck em to the kingpin. Fit kingpins and shims...

Some extra info. The knuckle arm starting force, with the rear seals removed should be between 1.0 - 1.8 KG. To test this you need to place a pull type scale(like you may use for weighing fish), into the hole your tie rod bolts too. You want to measure the starting force, this is when the arm moves. Removing shims will tighten this up, adding them will loosen them up. You will want to recheck this through out the life of the bearings, as they will wear in and require less shims.




7..
Insert races into hubs. Abit of 2x4 is good for one side. On the other side, I hammer it in as far as i can with the 2x4, then grab a hold of a spare race i have. The outside edge as been taken down on the bench grinder. This will let me hammer the whole unit it, then easily remove the top race.




8..
Apply more grease, and stick this bit on.. I applied more sticky red shit on either side. Stick the calliper bracket down, and then the stone guard for the disc. Do the four bolts up.




9..
Grease up both wheel bearings for this side. Insert the inner side(not pictured), and then stick your seal in the correct way. Then stick the whole unit onto the diff housing..



10.. Stick the outer bearing into place. Add the first plate in that sits against the bearing, add nut and torque to required specs. And the second part in, followed by the nut and torque to required specs. I bend the tabs to lock the nuts here.

See picture at the bottom of this post for wheel bearing torque settings.






11.. My hubs were in very good condition, looked to have been barely used in there life. You may aswell rebuild yours well your at it. Apply sticky red shit to the base of the hub and bolt it down. Apply required grease inside the hub, apply sticky red shit to the outer part and bolt it down.




12..
Now assemble the back end as pictured. I like sticky red shit so i applied more. Take note of how it all sits, it will only go together one way... Reassemble brakes. Do the other side and have a beer.





Sticky red shit can be replaced with sticky blue/grey shit.



Im still looking for this picture here..

[SierraDan]

Good write up dude!

[steak_knife]

Tin's are on the wrong way & the rubber shouldn't have a split in it....

[Rusho]

SierraDan wrote:

Good write up dude!

Absolutely...well done

[atari4x4]

:good tech:

[boostedbrick]

steak_knife wrote:

8O Tin's are on the wrong way & the rubber shouldn't have a split in it....

Me been a rough prick.. new one on order.. By tins you mean the bits between the nuts? I just put em on the way i pulled them off

[steak_knife]

Goes tin, rubber, felt, tin.

you have tin, tin, busted rubber, felt, tin.

No need to use your ole tin's again...


Oh.....

EDIT:

[boostedbrick]

steak_knife wrote:

Goes tin, felt, rubber, tin.

you have tin, tin, busted rubber, felt, tin.

No need to use your ole tin's again...


Oh.....

Ahh cool.
But it only goes Tin, busted rubber, felt, tin..
So ive just got the rubber and felt wrong?

[steak_knife]

boostedbrick wrote:

Look's like 2 set's to me.....

[boostedbrick]

There is two bits spot welded together. The last kit i purchased was the same.

[steak_knife]

[zooky08]

I did it the way boost did
Tin,rubber,felt tin
The rubber pushes in to the tin bits to hold them to the swivel then felt then second tins holds every thing

[steak_knife]

zooky08 wrote:

I did it the way boost did
Tin,rubber,felt tin
The rubber pushes in to the tin bits to hold them to the swivel then felt then second tins holds every thing

Just read what I wrote, I'll edit it...

I was mainly referring to the tin's, has a gap on the side's looking like 2 set's of tin's fitted incorrectly...

[remydog05]

Great write up mate
Im about to do this next week (time permitting) with a full kit and all new bearings, king pin, wheel, etc.

2 questions!

1 How did you know what size king pin shims to use?

2 How tight do you do things up? I was thinking of buying a torque wrench?

Im sure I will come up with other questions as Ive never done this but gunnahavago!

[boostedbrick]

So i had it correct then? I went down, pulled it apart and slipped the rubber from the other side in as i hadnt built it yet. So its now tin, felt, rubber, tin

[zooky08]

Oh I see what you mean
It does look like it though in the pics

[boostedbrick]

Maybe just the cheap kits that use this style.. But in saying that the first kit i brought from lowrange wasn't that cheap.




remydog05, I read this thread for info on the king pin shims. And i used a calibrated hand for torque settings.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... +hub+shims

[steak_knife]

boostedbrick wrote:

So i had it correct then? I went down, pulled it apart and slipped the rubber from the other side in as i hadnt built it yet. So its now tin, felt, rubber, tin

as if you's listen to me....

[Teracis]

steak_knife wrote:

boostedbrick wrote:

So i had it correct then? I went down, pulled it apart and slipped the rubber from the other side in as i hadnt built it yet. So its now tin, felt, rubber, tin

as if you's listen to me....

So after all this what's it supposed to be?

Hub....Tin, rubber, felt, tin.......Diff......tin, felt, rubber, tin.....Hub


EDIT: General consensus is in bold above, let me know if that's wrong.

[JrZook]

Hub....Tin, rubber, felt, tin.......Diff......tin, felt, rubber, tin.....Hub

[steak_knife]

Teracis wrote:

So after all this what's it supposed to be?

Hub....Tin, rubber, felt, tin.......Diff......tin, felt, rubber, tin.....Hub?

Or


Hub....Tin, felt, rubber, tin.......Diff......tin, rubber, felt, tin.....Hub?


Someone put up the correct one and I'll edit this to reflect the correct answer!

I did

[royce]

Ive always done rubber tin felt tin and pulled many apart like that, is this why my diffs never wobbled or leaked?

[stockman]

Good Tech!

[royce]

stockman wrote:

Good Tech!

Not till it has details on teh important parts, how to set the kingpin preload and wheel bearings

[joeblow]

royce wrote:

Ive always done rubber tin felt tin and pulled many apart like that, is this why my diffs never wobbled or leaked?

We have a winner.

[JrZook]

royce wrote:

Ive always done rubber tin felt tin and pulled many apart like that, is this why my diffs never wobbled or leaked?

Non of my diffs ever leaked or wobbled either! The tin has little tabs that locate it into the knuckle and then has the recess for the rubber seal to sit nicely into.
I always thought that the felt was meant to be a wiper to clean the end of diff ball that the rubber seals against. But it just seems to pre-load the rubber seal against the ball.

[stockman]

I think Suzuki say: Tin, rubber, felt, tin

[royce]

stockman wrote:

I think Suzuki say: Tin, rubber, felt, tin

I just checked a 1 lite manual and it shows it like this

must put much tension on the rubber, sure would be a lot easier to fit

[boostedbrick]

royce wrote:

stockman wrote:

I think Suzuki say: Tin, rubber, felt, tin

I just checked a 1 lite manual and it shows it like this

must put much tension on the rubber, sure would be a lot easier to fit

If everyone is happy we will go with that then

[boostedbrick]

Ok extra info has been added. If people can confirm this. It was pulled from the fsm.


6..
Some extra info. The knuckle arm starting force, with the rear seals removed should be between 1.0 - 1.8 KG. To test this you need to place a pull type scale(like you may use for weighing fish), into the hole your tie rod bolts too. You want to measure the starting force, this is when the arm moves. Removing shims will tighten this up, adding them will loosen them up. You will want to recheck this through out the life of the bearings, as they will wear in and require less shims.


4..
Id also like to add, that the FSM states replacing the rubber seal regularly. It IS a servicable item. It tells you to cut the new seal in one place, to fit it and place the cut portion to the top side, 30 degrees off the matching face of the oil seal retainer.