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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:48 am 
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So, most of you may know, I bought an 1995 Auto SV620 about 5 months ago and it had 151,000 on the clock, and NO service records AT ALL. I have been servicing everything but I am not sure whether the transmission fluid needs a change. When it changes up and down a gear it is not THAT noticeable, I mean, it feels acceptable for a 17 year old car, so that is not an issue. Also, when i plant my foot and the car changes down a gear there is a delay, but it too feels within reason, as in it would be less than a second delay which feels normal compared to other Autos i have driven. Also when checking the ATF it is see through red oil on the end of the dipstick, it is not thick nor sludgy.
My question is, how could I tell whether I need to change the Transmission Oil and Filter, or is there a way of telling whether it has already been changed recently?

I will also add this bit of info. I did what the manual said in order to check the fluid level: I idled the car for 2 minutes (from cold), i then cycled through the gears and then felt the temperature of the fluid on the stick, it hardly felt warm so i let the car idle for another 5 mins before doing another reading. What I am confused about is the fact that the fluid level was quite high, see the attached picture of the reading i just took. The manual states it should be up around the Hot mark when it is over 75 degrees, I can tell you now it was no where near that hot...

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:03 pm 
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If I brought a car with no service history I would be changing all the fluids,starting with a clean slate, also that oil looks a bit darker than normal should be a yellow colour

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:06 pm 
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kristov wrote:
If I brought a car with no service history I would be changing all the fluids,starting with a clean slate, also that oil looks a bit darker than normal should be a yellow colour

Yeah that is what I have been doing. But I have done a transmission fluid change and I am scared of stuffing something up, so i don't really want to do it unless it is necessary. All other fluids in my car has been changed almost twice now. I thought the fluid should be red?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:17 pm 
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Yes, fluid should be red. Did you check it with the engine running? It's not too hard to do an oil change but it can be quite messy

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:57 pm 
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take it for a regular 10 minute drive so the trans is upto operating temp & then check it as per the manual.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:13 pm 
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Scrawn wrote:
Yes, fluid should be red. Did you check it with the engine running? It's not too hard to do an oil change but it can be quite messy

Yeah I did. I did exactly as the manual said.

atari4x4 wrote:
take it for a regular 10 minute drive so the trans is upto operating temp & then check it as per the manual.

Ok will do.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:18 pm 
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i just had my trans serviced while getting the rear main done & the suzuki tech said to do a full flush every 20,000kms for piece of mind due to it being worked hard offroad + pushing the bigger tyres.

was about $100 worth of SGP parts (filter, filter gasket & pan gasket) $60 worth of fluid + labour.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:22 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i just had my trans serviced while getting the rear main done & the suzuki tech said to do a full flush every 20,000kms for piece of mind due to it being worked hard offroad + pushing the bigger tyres.

was about $100 worth of SGP parts (filter, filter gasket & pan gasket) $60 worth of fluid + labour.

That was the other thing. I am slightly inclined to get the service done for me, although i have already bought the filter and gasket kit, which cost be $21. Also, my dad has his Commodore's transmission done and it cost him $187, I am pretty sure i could do it my self for like half that so yeah.
Yeah I use my gears ALOT, for engine braking, and getting more power up hills etc. so feel like it deserves a service.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:25 pm 
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dumping the fluid & changing the filter is one thing, when getting a full service done they'll hook it up to a trans fluid machine & flush the old crap completely out of the trans & torque converter leaving you with completely fresh fluid rather than a mix of old & new trans fluid.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:31 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
dumping the fluid & changing the filter is one thing, when getting a full service done they'll hook it up to a trans fluid machine & flush the old crap completely out of the trans & torque converter leaving you with completely fresh fluid rather than a mix of old & new trans fluid.

Ahh yes. Hmm okay, might look into getting it done for me.

Btw, just took it for a spin, used gears as per usual, checked the fluid level and the level exceeded the gauge by about 3 mm. So the oil was up to the rod part of the stick rather than the part where you see the 'H' and 'C' marks, if you get me?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:34 pm 
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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:35 pm 
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racing through the gears isn't a regular drive. :roll:

even the manual says to let it sit for a bit if it's been worked hard. :wink:

Quote:
NOTE:
 DO NOT RACE ENGINE while checking fluid level, even after
the engine start.
 DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling can causes foaming and
loss of fluid through breather. Then slippage and transmission
failure can result.
 Bringing the level from LOW HOT to FULL HOT requires
0.3 liters (0.64/0.53 US/lmp.pt).
 If vehicle was driven under high load such as pulling a
trailer, fluid level should be checked about half an hour after
it is stopped.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 1:46 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
racing through the gears isn't a regular drive. :roll:

even the manual says to let it sit for a bit if it's been worked hard. :wink:

Quote:
NOTE:
 DO NOT RACE ENGINE while checking fluid level, even after
the engine start.
 DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling can causes foaming and
loss of fluid through breather. Then slippage and transmission
failure can result.
 Bringing the level from LOW HOT to FULL HOT requires
0.3 liters (0.64/0.53 US/lmp.pt).
 If vehicle was driven under high load such as pulling a
trailer, fluid level should be checked about half an hour after
it is stopped.


I didn't race through the gears. I just went for a 5 min drive untill the temp guage was where it usually sits (half way). All i did was engine braking, and changed down gears when going up a hill (wasn't going fast).

After letting it sit for 10 mins. I just checked it then and the fluid was about here:
Image

Also i should mention, i am checking the levels with the car on, incase you thought i wasn't

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:50 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=5&t=30364

I had similar issues reading the auto trans fluid level when I first got my SWB Vit.
The above link will give you a bit of insight. Armsup Armsup

Kev.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:34 pm 
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krat wrote:
http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=30364

I had similar issues reading the auto trans fluid level when I first got my SWB Vit.
The above link will give you a bit of insight. Armsup Armsup

Kev.

Thanks for that, although I already tried what you tried, in that, i let the car idle for about 5 mins (from stone cold) before checking and the result was the first picture I attached. I idled it for 2 mins first although the oil was still cold, so to get it to room temperature i idled it for 5 mins. Mine is just reading WAY to much oil in at all times, cold or hot.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:51 pm 
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On the normal operating temp thing, I run a small external cooler in series with the in rad cooler & I can drive it 13kms to work in light traffic driving like a normal person & it won't reach the nominated minimum running temps in the FSM.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:16 pm 
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You can always drop the fluid out into a clean container and measure the quantity compared to the refill quantity.
Of course, you can never drain every drop out, but it will give you a bit of an idea if there is too much in there as your dipstick is showing.
This will also allow you to do a visual check on the colour and other crap that may be in there.
I changed mine as soon as I worked out the dipstick reading. Easy job, and peace of mind. Armsup

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:26 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
On the normal operating temp thing, I run a small external cooler in series with the in rad cooler & I can drive it 13kms to work in light traffic driving like a normal person & it won't reach the nominated minimum running temps in the FSM.

That's pretty cool. They expensive?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:27 pm 
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krat wrote:
You can always drop the fluid out into a clean container and measure the quantity compared to the refill quantity.
Of course, you can never drain every drop out, but it will give you a bit of an idea if there is too much in there as your dipstick is showing.
This will also allow you to do a visual check on the colour and other crap that may be in there.
I changed mine as soon as I worked out the dipstick reading. Easy job, and peace of mind. Armsup

Yeah I think i will do an oil change. Just got to decide whether I should do it, or a mechanic

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:39 pm 
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karlmarkiewicz wrote:
krat wrote:
You can always drop the fluid out into a clean container and measure the quantity compared to the refill quantity.
Of course, you can never drain every drop out, but it will give you a bit of an idea if there is too much in there as your dipstick is showing.
This will also allow you to do a visual check on the colour and other crap that may be in there.
I changed mine as soon as I worked out the dipstick reading. Easy job, and peace of mind. Armsup

Yeah I think i will do an oil change. Just got to decide whether I should do it, or a mechanic


Mate it sounds complicated to do it properly, and a job that would yield little satisfaction. I reckon you should take it for a transmission dialysis like Atari did with his.

It has been in for god knows how long and you just bought it, treat the vitara a bit. :)

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:45 pm 
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plenty of DIY trans flush vids on the tube




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Post Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 2:41 pm 
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The_Amateur wrote:
karlmarkiewicz wrote:
krat wrote:
You can always drop the fluid out into a clean container and measure the quantity compared to the refill quantity.
Of course, you can never drain every drop out, but it will give you a bit of an idea if there is too much in there as your dipstick is showing.
This will also allow you to do a visual check on the colour and other crap that may be in there.
I changed mine as soon as I worked out the dipstick reading. Easy job, and peace of mind. Armsup

Yeah I think i will do an oil change. Just got to decide whether I should do it, or a mechanic


Mate it sounds complicated to do it properly, and a job that would yield little satisfaction. I reckon you should take it for a transmission dialysis like Atari did with his.

It has been in for god knows how long and you just bought it, treat the vitara a bit. :)

I have already bought all the parts (before you posted this) so i think I might give it a go myself. Plenty of stuff on the net.

Thanks for that guys.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 7:39 pm 
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Bastards at Repco gave me the wrong filter :evil: Another day without the vit :cry:

Filter on the LEFT is the one that I pulled out of the car. RIGHT is the one repco just gave me.
Image

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:06 pm 
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Just an update on my Transmission change.

So i decided to do it myself due to money and other issues. I HIGHLY regret this decisions as It took me 4 longggg nights to complete and I cross threaded a bolt in the process. Not only that, but I confused myself alot. I thought my transmission (and you guys can correct me if im wrong) only took a couple of litres, well turns out I drained about 4.3Litres from my transmission NOT including the stuff in the torque converter, that was just the oil pan 8O . And, when filing the car up again since I only thought it took about 3 litres (read that some where), I only put 3 in, because of this, It would not go in gear and NO oil showed on the dip stick. Turns out after 5 Litres of new oil in (plus the stuff in the converter) I still haven't reached the top line on the dip stick (mind you is would be a less than a couple of hundred mL off).

Although, now after it is oiled up, I does change gears very smoothly, for the time being. By the way, I chose not to do a flush because the oil, filter and magnets were all reasonably clean, no black gunt, and mostly red oil, so yeah.

I do have one question out of all this, that is what is the amount of oil that the entire Auto transmission takes (including converter), and about how much would stay in the converter during a drain? (I really need to get a FSM :lol: )

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:16 pm 
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spewing about the issues... kind of makes the $160 i paid seem pretty insignificant considering the wrong filter & other issues you had.

FSM states 6.9L when overhauling the trans, so 6+L sounds about right & 2.5l when draining from plug hole. I'm guessing dropping the pan & filter releases more again.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:34 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
spewing about the issues... kind of makes the $160 i paid seem pretty insignificant considering the wrong filter & other issues you had.

FSM states 6.9L when overhauling the trans, so 6+L sounds about right & 2.5l when draining from plug hole. I'm guessing dropping the pan & filter releases more again.

I say it would have cost me a bit more then $160. But I would have been happy to pay near $250 just to not go through the troubles i went through.

Yeah after removing the filter, a lot more came out. So the amount I put in sounds about right. Thanks for that. Also, I have looked everywhere and I can only find FSMs for sale, cost about $15. Did you buy yours or did you get yours online? I found one for a G16B which is helpful in someways, didn't help for tranny though.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:48 pm 
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PM incoming :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:57 pm 
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Yep they take alot of oil, its the main reason servicing them is dear.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:10 am 
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When changing all the fluids, don't forget the most neglected and important fluid. Brakes. And it wouldn't hurt to change the power steering fluid either.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:39 am 
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Chop wrote:
Yep they take alot of oil, its the main reason servicing them is dear.

Yeah, I must have read the Oil amount for a 4 cyl or maybe a sierra, because i was way off hahah.

buzbox wrote:
When changing all the fluids, don't forget the most neglected and important fluid. Brakes. And it wouldn't hurt to change the power steering fluid either.

I bled the brakes soon after getting the car, they still seem fine for now. Yet to do the power steering, still up to the 'MAX' line though.

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