[Xtreme]

Ok, Ive been asking alot of questions on here to help me settle on my build, and I've more or less come up with a happy medium for what I want to achieve. At the moment I am running 225/75R15's with a 2 inch OME suspension kit.

The build will basically be 31's, chopped guards, upgraded CV/Axle, manual hubs, sierra t/case with 5.16 gears.

For my build I have settled on running 31's (and so I will be chopping out the guards) my question is this: What does it take to break the stock CV/Axle running 31's? Would they be ok for general 4 wheeling without tackling rock steps etc or anything that would cause the tyres to spin then grab? or will they just die trying to do moderate hill climbs? When most of you talk about breaking the CV's etc is this under extreme conditions? I would rather just get the 31's and keep wheeling for now with easy/moderate tracks if the CV's would be ok rather then buy new 225's to run harder tracks fr now and then break the CV anyway.

1. I can at this point in time buy another set of 225's (have decided to run maxxis 764's) at a cost of about 800 for the tyres to go on my current rims (My current tyres are retreads - came with the car- and I don't trust them one bit) and concentrate on getting barwork/winch and some other parts of the build done first. OR
2. Buy new 31's (1200 fitted maxxis 764's)

At the end of the day I am chopping the guards because the end build will have the 31's. But to run 31's I know I need to upgrade the front CV/Axles etc - this is going to add about 2500 to the build (which I might not have at the moment thanks to job loss) and also I will have to do the gearing an everything at the same time (another 800 od dollars)

Any opinions would be appreciated/

[alien]

Monley drive his jimny like he stole it without lockers and on 31s for a while, then he got it twin locked and blew up his rear diff... i don't think he ever did a CV... and like i said he drove it bloody hard.

There's been a few jimnys on here now that have totalled their rear diffs, which would indicate theyre weaker than a sierra diff center.

I'd say you can run the 31's now, but just take it really easy when wheeling it until you can upgrade the driveline.

The best option IMO would be to replace your 225's with even some second hand tyres, and save your money so you can throw it all into the build in one go. This also gives you more time to research and make sure its 100% the way you want to go.

[Xtreme]

Yes I did have all my build money sitting there ready to do it all in one big hit but it is slowly getting sucked out and into bills and daily living till I pick up some more work, but thats the way the cookie crumbles. I can still do a bit of the build not just all in the one hit as I was going to.

I have been looking for 2nd hand ones but the 225s in M/T seem to be a bit of a rarity, or the ones I have found are down to about 30% tread and not worth it. The only others I can find are over 600 bucks anyway so I may as well spend 200 more and get new ones of the tyre I want.

But if I can run the 31's without fear of breaking something on the first trial then I will go ahead and do that and upgrade the front end later when money allows. I just got the feeling from reading threads on here that the front end would break as soon as I went to the 31's.

[31zook]

Ive done 4
Brindogs has done 1
Monley broke 1

[Xtreme]

Geeze you must have a right foot like a lump of lead! what is it breaking them? just when they bite?

[atari4x4]

Xtreme wrote:

Geeze you must have a right foot like a lump of lead! what is it breaking them? just when they bite?

have a look at the terrain he's driving, very little lead in his foot.

[SierraDan]

Bigger rubber, gearing, lockers and lots of grip or bind make the twigs snap without much trouble.

[alien]

the times i've seen people break a CV, its always been when they've been spinning a front wheel and bouncing up and down on it with the wheels turned... mechanical sympathy goes a long way to stopping those breakages... i drove my sierra on 31's with no front locker for 5 years before going CRMO axles and CVs with a front locker and i've never done a CV - infact my CV's were factory originals and i've been abusing my sierra for 12 years... Any time the zuk started hopping on the spot i'd come off the throttle and re-asses before trying again... the one time i did let it bounce around a heap i broke a rear uni joint (i had the wheels straight as i was aware of CV breakage).

[SierraDan]

Most people break them being a clown.

The sneakier ones are bind. Lots of weight on a wheel or a jammed wheel. One of Josh's that i watched was with plenty of weight on a wheel.
If the revs climb and one tyre does a full turn and the other does nothing.. Theyre cool to see haha

[zooky08]

I broke my cv when I reversed my jimny out of a bog hole. Had twin lockers and 30's

[Xtreme]

atari4x4 wrote:

Xtreme wrote:

Geeze you must have a right foot like a lump of lead! what is it breaking them? just when they bite?

have a look at the terrain he's driving, very little lead in his foot.

Just a G-up for him, not suggesting he's a bad driver

[31zook]

SierraDan wrote:

Most people break them being a clown.

The sneakier ones are bind. Lots of weight on a wheel or a jammed wheel. One of Josh's that i watched was with plenty of weight on a wheel.
If the revs climb and one tyre does a full turn and the other does nothing.. Theyre cool to see haha

X2

[jimny_timmy]

31zook wrote:

Ive done 4
Brindogs has done 1
Monley broke 1

When I saw Brindogs go, I was super surprised in how easy it went. I'd been told over and over again how weak they are and then watched him break his while he was driving in sticky clay.... One wheel got some traction and the other just kept spinning and then CLUNK!

Game over!

[zukenutter]

Touch wood I've never broken a CV. As alien said, mechanical sympathy. Good throttle control help a lot too