[SuziBlu]

Gday all, Who knows who can make me some custom flexi brake lines for the maruti.

Have searched here, on the net, all I could find that looked close was Titan and they are trailer only.

I could use custom hard lines, but flex would be so very much easier.

[SierraDan]

Brake shop.

[Gwagensteve]

Most hydraulics places (pirtek/ enzed) will do ADR approved brake lines.

They won't make them over 500mm long though, if that changes anything.

Steve

[BlueSuzy]

Any brake place will be able to make them for you, Certain hydraulic places can too.

They can get expensive.

3yr ago i got some longer ones made for my swb sierra, mine were $35 a brakeline. Now they are $55 from the same place..With the normal zook fittings, The $55 were actually shorter..

[303zuke]

Any Hydraulic supplier like Pirtek or Enzed could make them up. They have told me that for ADR/legal purposes, they cannot call them "Brake Lines", but will have the correct fittings and the hose will be sufficient pressure rated. Can also be optioned up with with wire spring wrap/gravelguard, or even as stainless braided.

[Gwagensteve]

Local hydraulics places will make ADR approved. They are identified as such and recorded by the manufacturer.

If you exceed 500mm then no ADR approval is possible.

[atari4x4]

http://www.powerbrakes.com.au/

613 North East Road
Gilles Plains SA 5086
(08)8261 0888
powerbrakes.com.au‎

they'll make them in what ever colour you like.
http://www.powerbrakes.com.au/index.php ... 2004111352

[SuziBlu]

I cannot fit a brake booster into the engine bay, so I am getting PBR ones that will run from the back of the cab, need seperate front and rear.

Will chat with the Adelaide guys, thanks all.

[want33s]

Dave I would recommend steel lines with flexi at the ends if needed.

[SuziBlu]

Jas, called Power brakes, yep, thats their recomendation.

So I need to get home and do some measurements and get them made up as steel, another go slow thing.

Can I make them, buy a bender and flaring tool and the correct threads ?

Be good if Its do-able.

[want33s]

SuziBlu wrote:

Jas, called Power brakes, yep, thats their recomendation.

So I need to get home and do some measurements and get them made up as steel, another go slow thing.

Can I make them, buy a bender and flaring tool and the correct threads ?

Be good if Its do-able.

You can buy bundy tube, flaring tools and line fittings all online and it isn't hard to bend lines to shape around an aerosol can or similar.

[Gwagensteve]

Just as an aside, and I'm not seeking to start an argument, but in my opinion, there's no need for a brake booster in a sierra. My car runs LWB vitara front callipers and rotors, sierra rear callipers and rotors and an auto, so I have limited engine braking on road, and it stops really well with a 1 1/6" GT forester master cylinder and no booster. That's with the heaviest 35" tyres, and the heaviest alloys available.*

It sounds to me like you are doing a metric fawkload of work that isn't really required.

Go crazy, and it sounds like an interesting idea, but I'm not sure I'd bother. I'll put a (2.0 V6) booster in my type 3 LWB cab, because it's a bolt in, but I wouldn't go out of my way to run one.

Steve.

* A note that's not relevant to SuziBlu's situation, but might come up if someone is searching. My braking is marginal in low range 1st and reverse. The combination of an AW-4, 6.4:1 transfer and 5.12 diffs means my car wants to drive over the brakes in low range. This is not really a brake problem, it's a torque-at-the-wheels problem- to add enough brakes to prevent this I'd probably need $$$$$$ multi-piston bling. - total overkill for when the car is on the move. I knew this was going to be a problem - it's the same issue for anyone with deep reduction and an auto.

[Teracis]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Just as an aside, and I'm not seeking to start an argument, but in my opinion, there's no need for a brake booster in a sierra. My car runs LWB vitara front callipers and rotors, sierra rear callipers and rotors and an auto, so I have limited engine braking on road, and it stops really well with a 1 1/6" GT forester master cylinder and no booster. That's with the heaviest 35" tyres, and the heaviest alloys available.*

It sounds to me like you are doing a metric fawkload of work that isn't really required.

Go crazy, and it sounds like an interesting idea, but I'm not sure I'd bother. I'll put a (2.0 V6) booster in my type 3 LWB cab, because it's a bolt in, but I wouldn't go out of my way to run one.

Steve.

* A note that's not relevant to SuziBlu's situation, but might come up if someone is searching. My braking is marginal in low range 1st and reverse. The combination of an AW-4, 6.4:1 transfer and 5.12 diffs means my car wants to drive over the brakes in low range. This is not really a brake problem, it's a torque-at-the-wheels problem- to add enough brakes to prevent this I'd probably need $$$$$$ multi-piston bling. - total overkill for when the car is on the move. I knew this was going to be a problem - it's the same issue for anyone with deep reduction and an auto.

Even with only 6.5's and 3.7 diffs with a manual it will drive through the brakes, difference is the clutch lets you get out of that problem far easier, I'm sure theres a lot of things the auto makes up for though!

[Gwagensteve]

Your definition of "drive though the brakes" and mine must be different

I could drive through the brakes with my 660 and the gearing as above.

If I engage reverse to back down a hill, it's effectively impossible to stop the car whilst reverse is engaged, even with two feet very firmly on the brake, ironically, (and it's counter intuitive) if I let my foot of the brake the car crawls very slowly and in control. It's when I try to stop it that's the problem, Bumping neutral is the cure. It's not really a solution for everyone, but I don't want to give up my gearing.

I'll add it's no problem on the road or in high range.

Sierrajim runs the same gearing, and left to idle his car will idle OVER his car trailer and onto the A frame

Steve.

[royce]

Gwagensteve wrote:

but in my opinion, there's no need for a brake booster in a sierra.

x2, I loved my 1 litre with 4 wheel disc and no booster

at very best I would only boost the fronts and stick the booster behind the glovebox

[SuziBlu]

Food for thought.

I just wanted to boost because its soposed to get to 100k and stop hard, multiple times says the engineer, just thinking a softish pedal may not be to his liking is all.

35s to pull up.

[royce]

no way an unboosted pedal could ever be called soft and a booster doesnt increase braking ability if you are man enough to press the pedal

run vit brakes on the front if you want more

[mrw82]

Royce what disk brake setup did you run on the rear of your 1 litre?

[SuziBlu]

Royce, I have LWB vitara rotors n 600° pads up front, fad will not be an issue.

Im of two minds to put the power steering in, most people says that with large wheels sierras are too hard to turn, same sort of thing as the unboosted brakes, I dont have a worry, but was just thinking would look better for an engineer, upgraded everything.

[weaves]

SuziBlu wrote:

Jas, called Power brakes, yep, thats their recomendation.

So I need to get home and do some measurements and get them made up as steel, another go slow thing.

Can I make them, buy a bender and flaring tool and the correct threads ?

Be good if Its do-able.

I bought the double flaring tool and a bender for around the $60.00 mark through my work. and i have a couple of customers that are brake shops, they sorted me out with the material to make it. It takes a few minutes to make once you have the size you need.

[GRPABT1]

I don't find 34x10.5" tyres to hard to turn with manual steering. The manual steering in my V8 commodore is harder when at car park speeds due to a fair bit of castor and obviously the weight of a heavy V8 motor. Things like drag links and tie rods might bend being only toothpick size on a zook though, but I haven't had a drama with one yet except for the one I bashed on a tree stump and bent.

[weaves]

The turning resistance would be created by the width rather than the height of the tyre. I have never had a drama turning 10.5's either. While there have been plenty of times where powersteering would have been nice, there was never a time it restricted me.

[GRPABT1]

Aired down on high traction surfaces like rock I think the height of the tyre will come into play with steering resistance.

[royce]

mrw82 wrote:

Royce what disk brake setup did you run on the rear of your 1 litre?

Sierra fronts

[Bruce]

royce wrote:

mrw82 wrote:

Royce what disk brake setup did you run on the rear of your 1 litre?

Sierra fronts

That's my next mod

[tanshi]

Bruce wrote:

royce wrote:

mrw82 wrote:

Royce what disk brake setup did you run on the rear of your 1 litre?

Sierra fronts

That's my next mod

with floaters ? ! ?

[Bruce]

tanshi wrote:

Bruce wrote:

royce wrote:

mrw82 wrote:

Royce what disk brake setup did you run on the rear of your 1 litre?

Sierra fronts

That's my next mod

with floaters ? ! ?