[skyman]

Ok guys so as long as I have had Sierra (samurai) I have never really had to change a u-joint. I have always had spare shafts.

So when replacing my 4:1 case for the 5:1 I found the intermediate shaft u joint was "sticky". It was not loose, nor was it catching, it just had a spot where it would move easier in it's travel.

So I pulled it to have a look and it is smooth as silk, no flat spots on the needle bearings and still snug.

So is it possible that the bearings just needed some lube, or the grease got a little sticky? I really don't see a damned thing worn with it.

Is it ok to stick it back in? I don't want to use the parts store replacements because they don't last. So if this one turns out bad I will have to wait for an OEM u-joint one from Trail tough to come in.

So whaddya think, it looks good, feels good, so it mus tbe good? add some grease and call it good,

Or wait a few days and replace the pig?

I haven't had an experience with u-joints so I thought I would defer to the experts

Thanks
--Sky

[royce]

its only stiff in the car? might pay to look at other stuff then

if it feels ok and greases up ok stick it back in, order a replacement and keep it on the shelf for next time, they are all the same afterall

[skyman]

It didn't have any problems in the car I don't think. When I pulled it, I could feel a definite "easy spot" it would feel snug, then in certain range of motion it would "free up" so to say, then get snug again.

[Damo]

Are the yokes all straight? Perhaps that would cause the sticking you describe.

If I was buying new u-joints i'd get Dana Spicer.

[skyman]

Yeah the yokes look like they are on pretty good shape. it is the u-joint right where the intermediate goes into the transmission.

[skyman]

I was thinking maybe, because the u-joint and shaft always run at the same angle, the grease had settled to one side, or dried up one side.

*I know these u-joints do mysterious things in their travels so i thought the "smooth loose spot might be a common thing on the intermediate.

Thanks guys

[SuziBlu]

Personally, I would change them, you have the shaft out, its not a big expense, sweet.

I agree with Damo, or, TOYO.

I have two types in my shed, TOYO PN# JUF1795 and Hardy Spicer PN# K5-A556

[skyman]

Thanks for the part numbers. I re-greased this one and decided to see how it felt. Feels perfect now, nice smooth and snug.

I am going to order a couple anyways, one to replace the one I just did, and one to throw in a trail box.

You know you are addicted to Zooks, when you have enough spare driveshafts to never have to change a u-joint in four years armsup

[dawsey]

1 more quick uni joint question .1 of mine squeaks like a very annoying mouse everytime im reversing..its 1 without a nipple so cant be greased only happens in reverse,checked it a few times the uni seems still in good condition..its pissing me off,been like it for about 12months.

[ajsr]

dawsey wrote:

1 more quick uni joint question .1 of mine squeaks like a very annoying mouse everytime im reversing..its 1 without a nipple so cant be greased only happens in reverse,checked it a few times the uni seems still in good condition..its pissing me off,been like it for about 12months.

and the question was?
I'd change it

[dawsey]

probaly will change it..wd40 tends to shut it up for about aweek or so.. the question is why have uni joints without grease nipples..

[SuziBlu]

A uni joint is only a bearing, there are more sealed bearings out there than there are grease-able. Can you use a grease gun on your wheel bearings ?

Nothing lasts forever, both grease-able and non grease-able have their pros and cons, and both will die.

When replacing wheel bearings, remember that sealed types only carry enuf grease to hold the bearings in place, and so, need packing before installation.

[ajsr]

its called sealed for the life of the part.
most ball joints tie rod ends etc are like that now. its a load of crap IMO greasable is shit loads better if you remember to do it and use the correct grease

try finding a grease nipple on a newish car

[SuziBlu]

ajsr wrote:

its called sealed for the life of the part.
most ball joints tie rod ends etc are like that now. its a load of crap IMO greasable is shit loads better if you remember to do it and use the correct grease

try finding a grease nipple on a newish car

TOYO are non grease-able, the ones I have to put on are Hardy Spicer, grease-ables.

[cairns27]

Someone on here said that the grease nipple is a weak point on a uni.

bye

[SuziBlu]

cairns27 wrote:

Someone on here said that the grease nipple is a weak point on a uni.

bye

Er, ?

[Gwagensteve]

cairns27 wrote:

Someone on here said that the grease nipple is a weak point on a uni.

bye

That is true is the grease nipple is in the centre of the uni, but that's not the case with sierra uni's I've seen - the grease nipple is on a cap, where it is vulnerable to damage, but has no negative effect on strength.

Steve.

[steak_knife]

Gwagensteve wrote:

cairns27 wrote:

Someone on here said that the grease nipple is a weak point on a uni.

bye

That is true is the grease nipple is in the centre of the uni, but that's not the case with sierra uni's I've seen - the grease nipple is on a cap, where it is vulnerable to damage, but has no negative effect on strength.

Steve.

How many have you seen damaged tho???

[skyman]

I can tell you OEM, and Japan made are heaps better than the cheap ones they sell at the parts store.

The chain parts stores here sell a joint for around $25-$35 bucks, and they don;t last long at all. The ones Trail tough sells, I think are Mitsubishi, those are rumored to last a very very long time if the angles aren't terrible.

Here as Steve said on another forum it seems like 9 out of 10 rigs are way to high to wheel. Imagine trying to keep uni's in your rigs with 6 inches or more of lift, and none of it from a body lift.

A guy did a write up or post about some uni's he mic'ed out. he posted the brands and whether or not they were good from the factory. I will see iffen' I ken find the link.