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TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:26 am |
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I'm about to change my spark plugs in my j20a and am a little more curious about using anti-seize. I used anti seize the last time however I'm reading that using it may cause problems.
Is it wise to use anti seize in aluminium heads? If so what type - copper or nickel-based? Some people say copper, others say nickel-based for alloy heads.
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
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Benz
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1006 Location: Cervantes WA
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:31 am |
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shouldn't need it?
you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?
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TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:38 am |
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It's not about being too tight. It's about dissimilar metals (aluminium head and steel plug) going though repeated hot/cold cycles causing the seizing. Or that's what I'm reading at the moment.
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
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Bruce

az supporter
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4003 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:52 am |
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I always use anti-seize on my plugs. I don't put them in tight but just like the idea of using it, and I'm paranoid what you said about aluminium head and steel plug.
I have removed many a plug (not my cars) that you just about have to use a 4 foot bar on to get them out. Never had one snap on me and what a pain in thebum to get out if it did break in the head.
_________________ [quote="royce"] I wouldnt mind insulating my rear
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TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 12:01 pm |
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Bruce wrote: I always use anti-seize on my plugs. I don't put them in tight but just like the idea of using it, and I'm paranoid what you said about aluminium head and steel plug. I have removed many a plug (not my cars) that you just about have to use a 4 foot bar on to get them out. Never had one snap on me and what a pain in thebum to get out if it did break in the head.
Do you know which brand/type of anti seize you use - Copper or Nickel based?
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
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eldo

az supporter
Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 2770 Location: sunny coast
Vehicle: jimny
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:43 pm |
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Copper is what I would recomend, nickel is generally used on stainless fastners
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Scrawny

I live here!
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 10528 Location: Brissie
Vehicle: Popemobile
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:48 pm |
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I always use a small smear of copper anti sieze. It also helps to keep the firing voltages down
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TZAR

az supporter
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 3459 Location: licking some windows
Vehicle: LJ20 LJ50
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:58 pm |
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_________________ Camels have nice toes
Last edited by TZAR on Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MacDaddy

az supporter
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 10453 Location: Perth, Australia
Vehicle: Jeep
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:58 pm |
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Benz2369 wrote: shouldn't need it?
you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you?
X 2
Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it... 
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ajsr

az supporter
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 3712 Location: melb
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:48 pm |
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MacBear wrote: Benz2369 wrote: shouldn't need it?
you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you? X 2 Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it... 
but your both missing the point, you get a corrosion between the steel plug and the alloy head (because they are disimilar metals) that under certain circumstances will cause the plug to seize in the head or at worst csae pull out or damage the thead in the alloy head ,I doesnt matter whether they were super tight or seated and then 1/4 turn. Its particularly important IMO on motors that run 100,000km plugs
and back on the question I've used copper eze on my plugs for 10 years now and never had an issue. I use it on all plugs even ones into steel heads . its great on wheel studs too.
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royce

omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:04 pm |
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Bruce

az supporter
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4003 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:20 pm |
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Is that permatex 771?
_________________ [quote="royce"] I wouldnt mind insulating my rear
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royce

omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:24 pm |
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bazook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1082 Location: brisbane logan
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:45 pm |
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this is the stuff there talking about I use the tube its easier like royce said

_________________ josh AKA Bazook
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TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:48 pm |
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royce wrote:
I tried to buy this yesterday... Supercrap in their stupid wisdom don't sell this anymore. Repco had no idea what I was talking about... retards.
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
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Bruce

az supporter
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4003 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:54 pm |
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Try a bearing shop like CBC.
_________________ [quote="royce"] I wouldnt mind insulating my rear
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MacDaddy

az supporter
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 10453 Location: Perth, Australia
Vehicle: Jeep
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 6:41 am |
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ajsr wrote: MacBear wrote: Benz2369 wrote: shouldn't need it?
you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you? X 2 Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it...  but your both missing the point, you get a corrosion between the steel plug and the alloy head (because they are disimilar metals) that under certain circumstances will cause the plug to seize in the head or at worst csae pull out or damage the thead in the alloy head , Its particularly important IMO on motors that run 100,000km plugs
I have never experienced a plug seize in the head, even cars i have bought, that clearly, have not had a plug change in a longgggg time... i prefer not to leave plugs in for longer than 12 months, personal choice...
 Wow 100,000kms on one set of plugs... i can see why they seized up in the head, and why you would be concerned about it happening again... 
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TZAR

az supporter
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 3459 Location: licking some windows
Vehicle: LJ20 LJ50
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:13 am |
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MacBear wrote: ajsr wrote: MacBear wrote: Benz2369 wrote: shouldn't need it?
you don't do spark plugs up that tight do you? X 2 Dont spark plugs come with a sealing washer, i was always told to put them in finger tight, then give a 1/4 turn with plug spanner, and thats it...  but your both missing the point, you get a corrosion between the steel plug and the alloy head (because they are disimilar metals) that under certain circumstances will cause the plug to seize in the head or at worst csae pull out or damage the thead in the alloy head , Its particularly important IMO on motors that run 100,000km plugs I have never experienced a plug seize in the head, even cars i have bought, that clearly, have not had a plug change in a longgggg time... i prefer not to leave plugs in for longer than 12 months, personal choice...  Wow 100,000kms on one set of plugs... i can see why they seized up in the head, and why you would be concerned about it happening again... 
Most modern cars are like this. Because a V6 in a east west configuration need to have the whole intake manifold and associated componets removed and it can be up to $850 to replace 6 plugs.
Some plugs retail at $45 a plug too
_________________ Camels have nice toes
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Scrawny

I live here!
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 10528 Location: Brissie
Vehicle: Popemobile
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:41 am |
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Yeah, platinum and iridium plugs are good for 100,000kms
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303zuke

az supporter
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 2447
Vehicle: LJ50V, SJ70
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:31 am |
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I've sold a few of these 226g tubs of Nickel Anti-Seize on E-bay for $20 plus post, still got a few left (Coke can not included). Should last you a lifetime of plug swaps.
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TheOtherLeft
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 818 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:29 am |
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I'm looking for copper anti-seize. Do you sell that?
_________________ 2002 SWB GV
Lifted and Locked
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EldarO
Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2010 7:08 am Posts: 71 Location: Perth, WA
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:41 am |
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never used anti seize on spark plugs.
never, not once, had an issue taking them out either.
worked at a wrecking yard, lost count of the motors ive had to compression test, and yet again, never had an issue with plugs seized in the heads.
like oil filters, if you use the correct procedure putting it in, you shouldnt have an issue taking it out, alloy is soft, so if you tighten the plug down to one billion foot pounds, anti seize or not, your gonna have issues.
that saidm 100,000k plugs are probably worth using anti seize on, but using them on your standard 10,000k plugs would be a waste of money, unless the valley where your spark plugs sit is constantly swimming in water.
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