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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 2:37 am 
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Should I waste my money on this stuff as I go to buy another bottle of oil?

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Engine_Stop_Leak/ or equivalent brand?

I have an annoying leak that contributes to around 1l loss every ~1000km on the head gasket which I'm not going to fix anytime soon.

Does this shit work or just a $12 gimmick?

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 2:40 am 
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that product stopped the cam seals leaking on my challenger for 120,000km

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 2:45 am 
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I use it every year or so, it works by swelling seals, and can stop leaks pretty well.

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 3:00 am 
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Ok kewl, I will give it a go then. Thanks. :)

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 3:34 am 
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clean the leak up and get a pic, thats a severe head gasket leak

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 5:55 am 
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Well maybe not 1000km, but probably 1200-1500km.

It's under no.4 exhaust have to get under to see it, cleaned it a few weeks back.

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 6:29 am 
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Some pics...

Under Exhaust No.4
Image

Under Exhaust No.1 Looking Back
Image

Front of Engine / Head Gasket
Image

Sump gasket is probably a little leaky too
Image

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 7:00 am 
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OK that stuff won't help you.

Looks like you need a head gasket - You might be able to try Barr's stop leak, as that stuff looks like oily water. Pulling the head off is probably the best way forwards.

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 7:57 am 
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lump_a_charcoal wrote:
OK that stuff won't help you.

Looks like you need a head gasket - You might be able to try Barr's stop leak, as that stuff looks like oily water. Pulling the head off is probably the best way forwards.


Could it be a day job?

Never done it before and I don't have spare cash to pay someone to do it at the moment.

While it's off should anything else be done?

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:11 am 
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if you pull an alloy head off you should get it machined flat again so not really a day job. all the work can be done in a day but most machining shops will take longer than a day to get around to it

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:24 am 
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Zook_Fan wrote:
if you pull an alloy head off you should get it machined flat again so not really a day job. all the work can be done in a day but most machining shops will take longer than a day to get around to it


Ok, What is that usually worth?

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:38 am 
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I got quoted $230 for my gemini head but i think that included hardened valve seats. From memory it is only around the $150 mark tops but I might be off there. Give a couple of shops a call and ask

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:09 am 
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you should get it machined but you'll be fine if you dont. its not going to get any worse than it is. make sure you clean all the old gasket off and use some gasket spray.

do the timing belt while the head is off and maybe the water pump. you can do it all in a day, just take your time and make sure the head bolts go back in the hole they came out of.

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:07 am 
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stop leak stuff has worked on my old honda got it through roady but no way leaking that much

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:10 am 
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I'd be looking at the cam seal before pulling the head off.

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:18 am 
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Ok, If I have the spare dosh at the time I'll get it machined, I did the waterpump a few months ago so thats all good.

steknig wrote:
I'd be looking at the cam seal before pulling the head off.


Thanks Stekky, I'll look into that as well.

I'm no expert, might hit it again with more degreaser and get one of you guys to have a look for me

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:19 am 
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x7, thats cam and crank seal in the front and I would put money on the rear being the dizzy housing o ring

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 10:31 am 
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Cheers Royce, That sounds better.

Now whats the difficulty rating on replacing those?

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:00 am 
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the front seals are the same as doing the waterpump plus removing the pulleys and seals, few hours work and nothing hard

the rear one you mark the dizzy spot and pull the housing off the back of the head and fit a new oring and put it all together and fiddle a bit till its lined up again, or if you are lazy like me, slide it off a bit, fill the gap where the oring goes with silicone and do it back up :)

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:26 am 
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royce wrote:
the front seals are the same as doing the waterpump plus removing the pulleys and seals, few hours work and nothing hard

the rear one you mark the dizzy spot and pull the housing off the back of the head and fit a new oring and put it all together and fiddle a bit till its lined up again, or if you are lazy like me, slide it off a bit, fill the gap where the oring goes with silicone and do it back up :)


That's never worked for me, well the one time I tryed anyway.

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:30 am 
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currently working well on teh vit, you have to do it properly and clean it with whatever is handy and let it set you know :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:53 am 
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royce wrote:
currently working well on teh vit, you have to do it properly and clean it with whatever is handy and let it set you know :wink:


You & your fancy word's. :roll:

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Post Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:15 am 
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Ok front sounds easy, as long as I don't screw the timing the dizzy should be ok too.

Cheers

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Post Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 4:26 am 
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foonji wrote:
Front of Engine / Head Gasket
Image


Looking at this today, I noticed that it had a green tinge.. so coolant 8O can't be good

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