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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:49 am 
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So my driver side window switch stopped working this arvoi on my Vit. Strangely enough, the passenger window switch (on the drivers door) had done the exact same thing a few weeks ago but magically started working again a few days later.

Wasn't so bad last time, as I could still put the window up via the passenger door switch. Obviously I don't have that luxury this time round.

Its the exact same issue again, the switch still winds the window down but will no longer go up. This is a bit of a problem, as I need to use it during the week and the window is currently stuck down.

Short of the switch magically fixing itself again overnight (seriously doubt its going to happen, I've given it a thorough clean out and still not having any luck), does anyone know which wires I need to short out to wind the window up? I've got a Haynes manual for it but as far as I can tell the electric diagrams in it don't show the power windows (fail!).

Going off the amount of WTB posts for them in this forum and the multiple ebay sellers selling generic replacements I'm guessing its a rather common problem.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:07 am 
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Sound silly, but give the switch a bit of a wobble while pull it up, normally thay just lose contact & the wobble wan get it back.
Failing that.
Thay work by reversing the polarity's on the motor, 12v on one side, window up, 12v on the other, down.
With a test light, find a power wire on the connector, then jump thet to another till some thing goes up or down.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:38 am 
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ninjamoses wrote:
does anyone know which wires I need to short out to wind the window up?

mate, i had this all sorted and written down at one stage, but it seems to have been lost in the depths of my shed ATM, i'll see if i can find it tomorrow. From memory, there are 8 wires going to the drivers side switch, you will need to connect 4 of these together to get any window winding action. Arm yourself with a multi meter and see which wire supplies power and go from there

ninjamoses wrote:
Going off the amount of WTB posts for them in this forum and the multiple ebay sellers selling generic replacements I'm guessing its a rather common problem.


Yeah they all stuff up and burn out the contacts... there is however an easy fix Armsup

Find yourself some carling contura momentary switches and make your own.. i got mine from waytek wire http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/ ... /Switches/

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:44 am 
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i had the drivers side switch panel replace under warranty when i bought my zook, now the drivers side wont wind down the passenger window... i think it's currently full of dust & sand.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:45 am 
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Thanks guys. Have wiggled the shitter out of the switch but no luck unfortunately.

4 of them need to connected? Argh bugger thats going to make the guesswork a little harder.

I've gone nuts with the multimeter. Out of the 8 wires, we have 3 providing 12V (thin pink, thin pink/brown, and a thick blue). We've then got thick black which is earth. Other then that, there is green, yellow, red and I forget what the other one is already lol. None of the remaining four register jack shit on the multimeter.

Connecting 12V up to any of the other 4 non-powered wires does jack all. Connecting it to the earth creates sparks (wooo!).

Any chance you remember which colours need connecting Polar Bear? I've done a pretty thorough search of the forums earlier and didn't find the post you are talking about unfortunately.

EDIT - rofl just realised you said the depths of your shed. Thought you meant the depths of the forum for some reason. That would be ace if you could see if you could dig up the info tomorrow thanks mate. Much appreciated. :)

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:56 am 
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had a quick look in the shed, cant find where i wrote it all down, but found the switch, which i pulled apart to work it all out

looks like this (pardon the nooob cad)


------------
| 1 x x 2 3 |
| 4 5 6 7 8 |
------------

pin 8 should have power


for driver side window try connecting 8 -1 & 3 - 4
or the other way 1 - 3 & 4 - 8


for passengers side try connecting 8 - 2 & 3 - 7
or the other way 2 - 3 & 7 - 8

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:07 am 
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Champion! And a++ n00b cad!
Alas, unfortunately it seems they have changed the wiring on the SV models.

My plug has 4 across the top, and 6 across the bottom

12---34
x56x78

- = nothing, filler to show the switch shape :P
x = blank hole
1 = pink, 12V
2 = pink/brown, 12V
3 = yellow, 0V
4 = red, 0V
5 = green/black, 0V
6 = red/black, 0V
7 = back, earth
8 = blue, 12V

Hrmmmm :?

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:19 am 
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well it still only has 8 wires, which i would assume to still correspond to the same ones as the older models... just try connecting the numbers :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:39 am 
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Polar_Bear wrote:
well it still only has 8 wires, which i would assume to still correspond to the same ones as the older models... just try connecting the numbers :wink:


I thought that, but connecting 1 - 8 in my case would be connecting two 12V wires together. I'm not an electrician by any stretch, but that wouldn't do anything would it?

As luck would have it, just gave it one last go via the switch and the frieking POS has started working perfectly again. Hasn't done jack the last thousand or so presses over the last few hours, but now its just magically working.

Did I mention I hate vehicle electrics :x :x :P

Oh well at least my window is up again now haha. Thanks again for your help and looking at the switch for me. I <3 this forum! :wink:

Sweet looking rocker switches on yours btw. If mine packs it in again I reckon I will go down that path for sure. Heading away next weekend, whats to bet it shits itself again when I'm 100km out in the bush :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:49 am 
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i had all the colours and where they went / what they did written down in a book somewhere, will have another look tomorrow! It was a bit confusing having 3 power wires, i seem to remember something like that aswell... you can pull the switch apart and trace the wires that way, but springs and little rocker contacts will fly out all over the place, and you'lll probably never get it back together again :wink: otherwise see what colours are on the drivers side motor, which will tell you what to connect to get that one going. They always fuk up, and always at the most inconvienient times....my drivers window was buggered for ages...hated it at drive thru maccas :cry:

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:49 pm 
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im also having issues with the rear windows in the vit, i know there is power there as i have used the multi meter and the motor is etting power, but no movement. i tried to move the windows manually by hand and they dont budge. i am currently trying to pull a motor out whilst i wait for stekky to pm me his number

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:36 pm 
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hey eldo is the motor getting a positive and a negative?

also i have had the glass sieze into the rubber.. does similar to what you desrcibe. have power to them but no movement as the motor isnt powerful enough to brake the seal..

what i did was unbolt the regulator and motor and drop the window down just a but.

it should work then.

i use silicon spray on my electric windows on the mrs car. not beacuse i have problems but to eliminate any dramas that may arise. keep the tracks lubed and the moor isnt working as hard. its a theory i am working on and so far so good. i also do the sierra and they slide easily.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:55 pm 
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all fixed, i gave the door a bash with a piece of timber and then lubed up the rubbers with silicone spray, after 5 mins of up down and spraying shit loads they are free.....

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:15 am 
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eldo wrote:
all fixed, i gave the door a bash with a piece of timber and then lubed up the rubbers with silicone spray, after 5 mins of up down and spraying shit loads they are free.....


8O sound's like a night at the valley :lol: :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:24 am 
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steknig wrote:
eldo wrote:
all fixed, i gave the door a bash with a piece of timber and then lubed up the rubbers with silicone spray, after 5 mins of up down and spraying shit loads they are free.....


8O sound's like a night at the valley :lol: :lol:


well stephan you would know, isn't steknig a Greek term?

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:41 am 
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eldo wrote:

well stephan you would know, isn't steknig a Greek term?


Not to my limited knowledge of Greek, but my Greek name is Astiff. 8O

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:49 am 
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oh and stephan was meant to be stefffffannnnn.....google steknig, your at the top of the list.... oh back to the tech

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:52 am 
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eldo wrote:
oh and stephan was meant to be stefffffannnnn.....google steknig, your at the top of the list.... oh back to the tech


Window's, yes. :roll:

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:56 am 
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Yes ... Back to tech..


So they were just stuck... It's from lack of use.. Good idea to wind em up and down at leaSt once a week and lube them once a month.

Anyways how did you go with the a/c

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 2:10 am 
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the large pipe is cool to touch but definately not cold, its about the same temp as the canister with the eye glass in it.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 2:13 am 
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eldo wrote:
the large pipe is cool to touch but definately not cold, its about the same temp as the canister with the eye glass in it.


You need a fan on the condenser. I still think it may of lost some gas to.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 3:05 pm 
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cool would suggest slighlty low on gas.

but the fact that the receiver drier is roughly the same temp doesnt sound good. the cannister is a filter in the high pressure side of the system and shouldnt really be cool to touch.

run your hand over as much of the system as possible while it is running and see if there is any cold parts.

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