[DesmondTheDrover]

Hi Everyone! Just wondering if anyone knows what flare nut size the suzuki sierra is. I have recently done a wide track conversion and need to plumb up some new rear hard brakelines. I know that the hard line size is 3/16. Will 3/8-24 fittings work, or is it m10x1?

I have also ordered 3/16 copper nickel hard line. Will this work? I've read that its easy to flare ends and bend.

Thanks so much

[Gwagensteve]

M10X1.0

CuNi will work but I recall reading a long time ago on Vicroads website it's not legal for road use, and only steel is permitted. This might not be accurate or concern you but it might be worth checking.

[DesmondTheDrover]

Thanks so much Steve!

[DesmondTheDrover]

I have a few more brake-related questions. I recently ordered a new right wheel cylinder since my old one was clogged. Unfortunately, the part I received is incorrect—it has a brass ferrule where the bleed screw should be.

On SJ50 models (holden drover, my zook), the right wheel cylinder has a port for a brake bleeder, meaning there shouldn’t be a brass ferrule. However, from 1988 onwards (SJ70 models), Suzuki changed the design, adding a brass ferrule that prevents a bleeder from being installed. Instead, SJ70 models route a brake line from the right wheel cylinder to the left, requiring both brakes to be bled from the left side, unlike the SJ50, where each wheel cylinder is bled separately.

I don’t want to go through the hassle of returning the part. Do you think it’s possible to remove the brass ferrule without damaging the surface? It was pressed in at factory, I’m concerned about keeping the surface intact so the brake bleeder can seal properly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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[Andygoodbloke]

Hi Desmond
I have the same on my SJ50 and replaced the lines recently. This is the layout on mine, it maybe the same and it maybe different as they changed with models and also countries, I found brake line diagrams on the British Suzuki club page to compare many different layouts

From the master cylinder it goes down under the vehicle to a splitter box which the front and back gets split in order to give the front more stopping power without locking up the back wheels all the time - there is a bleed point here

One brake line goes to the back of the vehicle down the right side, to the right rear wheel to help bleed it I put the supply line in the bottom of the 2 holes, then from the top pipe it went across the back diff to the left rear which has the bleeder for the back brakes. The diff had clips and saddles for the line to sit in

The hardest part for me was doing the 2 pipes up to pressure on the rear right being so close you can't get a brake spanner into the nut, tried all sorts like grinding down a 10mm spanner only for it to not hold being too thin, but Snap On tools came to the rescue with an open ender of good quality getting it done up.

[Gwagensteve]

There are a number of different brake line configurations through years and models. Including differences between passenger and commercial variants.

This will decide which side the bleeder is on if it has a single line to the rear. Passenger sj50’s run two rear rubber brake lines and bleeds on both sides.

This will require some amount of jiggerypokery to make everything work together.

I have a flare nut wrench that I found down to undo the rear wheel cylinder hard lines.

[Andygoodbloke]

If you are going to run a line across the back of the diff from the right side to the left, let me know and I will take a pic for you - let me know

I would suggest running a line of electrical wire, or similar to plan the route and get a length so you can take that length to the brake shop and get them to add the flare to the end and the nut behind it and cut it to the length needed. Then connect the tube to the left upper port of the slave cylinder short straight to make removing easier, then down and across the rear axle, over the top of the diff head, cross then up with another angle to go straight in, the pipe is easy to deal with and bends to shape as long as you do not crease it with a really tight bend

Or ask them for a bleed nipple which will fit it if your old ones don't fit.

Steve The bleeder is usually at the furthest away point from the master cylinder.

My SJ50 has only one rear bleeder and 2 slave cylinders and when putting it all back together took some research but found all the threads were the same so I could change it around if I needed to.

Thanks Andy