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| A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? https://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=57446 |
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| Author: | Tazookie [ Fri Jan 27, 2023 6:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? |
First time at this. How far will I have to go? Any hints on what I will find? Any recommendations? What should I do to stop the cause? I can only see a small hole in the pillar just under the windscreen. unlikely to be the main cause. Poking around with a wire through the rust holes, above and under the hinge, I don't hear any rust on the inside of the pillar. That's hopeful. Thoughts? The rest of the body looks fine. Just this area. Thanks in advance for any help. (Am about to buy a welder...) Suzuki Vitara 1976. |
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| Author: | Brenno [ Sat Jan 28, 2023 8:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? |
Do you mean 1996, not 1976? |
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| Author: | Tazookie [ Sun Jan 29, 2023 7:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? |
Ooops. Actually 1993. |
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| Author: | Gwagensteve [ Sun Feb 05, 2023 10:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? |
TBH, I'd say at this point the shell will be uneconomic to repair. If that area of the A pillar is that rusty, I'd suggest there will be substantial rust elsewhere in the car, most likely under and round the windscreen mouldings. If you haven't welded body panel before, it's a substantial challenge. You need to get to clean steel to deposit weld, so you have to remove enough material there is no rust present. Note that where the skin has rusted through, it looks like there is substantial rust on the structural member underneath. you'll want to know the extent of rust and condition of that too. If this was a valuable car I'd say it's definitely worth it, but early vitaras are pretty cheap now so if you're doing it for fun and as a learning exercise more power to you, but it's going to be a LOT of work. When chasing rust you have to work out why it rusted where it did and where the water came from to start the rust. my guess is around the windscreen - The old vitara's I've seen have always had rust around the screen when I've wrecked them out -and to be clear, they were cars that didn't show any rust elsewhere at all. |
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| Author: | Zedsdead [ Sun Apr 09, 2023 3:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? |
Don’t be scared of this job, it’s not that hard. I just did both pillars and windscreen. Best bet is to unpick the whole pillar and replace if you are lucky enough to find another one in good condition (I did at the local wreckers) They are double skinned for strength around the hinges. 2 door and 4doors appear to be different on the second skin but still match up. There is also a second inner skin up at aerial (this is the same for both sides) I found a water drain hose down my drivers pulled which is why I suspect it rusted. I took out both pillars and the windscreen channel all in one go. Welding the windscreen try and weld it at the fold to the roof. This will help with warping and you can hide it under the rubber. Check your sill too as these will likely be rotten too. I flipped mine inside out (hand made) and run my scrub bar in the channel. Also the rear door channel if it’s a 4door, and the front bib where the wipers are (drivers side in particular) All in all only took about 10hrs for the metal work yo be in epoxy. And getting ready to paint. I should mention I am a panel beater and have had to do other similar jobs before. Any other tips or info just ask I’ll give all the info I can. Just don’t be scared to try… maybe just cut one out from a wreck and unpick it first too see what you are up for. |
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| Author: | Andygoodbloke [ Sat Feb 08, 2025 11:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: A pillar rust - how far will I have to go? |
From the pic and the hole, I would also get the wire brush head on the drill and take off the paint around the hole to see how it looks from every possible angle Next get a sharp screwdriver of a small size and keep stabbing / pushing into the metal around the area until the screw driver doesn't poke through and the metal is solid. Not only will the bad metal be identified, but also areas which are strong enough to take a weld without melting and making the issue full of weld holes. Before welding cover every possible part with POR-15 rust converting paint, or similar as it makes the rusty metal usable again, but it does break down in UV light so ideal for under the vehicle or to be sealed in Since it is now 2 years later this advise maybe too late. |
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